Just got my RT5000 system, advice needed!
Keroppi667
Posts: 6
I finally managed to pick up my first quality speaker system. I am no audiophile, and am coming from HTIB class stuff. However, I have always wanted a good set that I never intend to replace. This seems like the one.
The good: I picked them up in pristine physical shape for $600.
The bad: One of the sub amps and the center amp are "acting up".
The guy I bought them from was pretty clueless, but sounded like it was one amp not coming on, the other had audio issues. Due to corona it was a parking lot meetup and I didn't get to do anything other than a physical inspection.
I have not yet powered them up, nor pulled the amp plates.
Now, I read the amps can be rebuilt by Polk or 3rd party eBay guy (in Chicago?) for a couple hundo a pop. That's on the table if absolutely necessary, but I'd really rather not double my cost if I can avoid it, as it'll take me a while to spare the funds. If anyone has any spares they'd be willing to part with (long shot, I know) I'm all ears.
I am pretty electronically inclined (I rebuild pinball machines) so I know my way around a meter and a soldering gun. Other than the obvious fuses, shorted transistors, cold solder joints, etc. is there anything on these amp boards that is a very common failure to look at specifically (other than the caps)?
I intend to replace the main caps on all 3 amp boards anyways as a preventative measure. Can anyone who has replaced them recommend the highest quality/value caps for these? I know Nippon/Panasonic (and Japanese caps in general) are of high quality, but I also know that amplifiers are their own beast, so some guidance here also would be appreciated.
Also, I want to extend this system as time goes on, eventually to an Atmos 5.x.x/7.x.x system. I'd really like to timbre match as well as possible, so I am need guidance on best speakers to use. I don't have a ton of money (even picking these up was a big expenditure)...so I'll be piecing the add'l speakers together slowly from eBay and the like.
Logic dictates I'd be best off using Polk speakers of the same era, hopefully with the same drivers...out of the ones in that era, I read the RT55, AB7xx/8xx in-wall series should all be very close. I'd also appreciate any experienced opinions on some other possible newer vintage sets that would be a good fit so I can extend my model # search.
I read conflicting opinions on whether or not an additional sub is beneficial, and the best way to wire the fronts. From what I gather, to get any real additional low end extension, I'll need a high watt, quality sub, maybe 12" and 500w+? I see SVS is recommended by a few folks. It'll be a ways down the road anyway. Anybody who can chime in on the value of a sub (and whether or not to use the LFE input or not) would also be appreciated.
I also read these speakers are pretty power hungry. My Pioneer VSX-1123 only really pushes 90w/channel so I fully expect it to be pretty anemic. For the next upgrade I am thinking of moving to separate amps. The system is rated for up to 300w per front, and 250W for each of the rest of the channels. My question is how much (real) wattage is a good enough sweet spot to really make these speakers perform? Nice amps get exponentially more expensive with watts...with my shoestring budget I may need to get multiple bridgeable amps. Should I be shooting for a minimum of 150wpc? 200w?
Anyways, if you made it this far, thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for an opinions or insight you can provide!
The good: I picked them up in pristine physical shape for $600.
The bad: One of the sub amps and the center amp are "acting up".
The guy I bought them from was pretty clueless, but sounded like it was one amp not coming on, the other had audio issues. Due to corona it was a parking lot meetup and I didn't get to do anything other than a physical inspection.
I have not yet powered them up, nor pulled the amp plates.
Now, I read the amps can be rebuilt by Polk or 3rd party eBay guy (in Chicago?) for a couple hundo a pop. That's on the table if absolutely necessary, but I'd really rather not double my cost if I can avoid it, as it'll take me a while to spare the funds. If anyone has any spares they'd be willing to part with (long shot, I know) I'm all ears.
I am pretty electronically inclined (I rebuild pinball machines) so I know my way around a meter and a soldering gun. Other than the obvious fuses, shorted transistors, cold solder joints, etc. is there anything on these amp boards that is a very common failure to look at specifically (other than the caps)?
I intend to replace the main caps on all 3 amp boards anyways as a preventative measure. Can anyone who has replaced them recommend the highest quality/value caps for these? I know Nippon/Panasonic (and Japanese caps in general) are of high quality, but I also know that amplifiers are their own beast, so some guidance here also would be appreciated.
Also, I want to extend this system as time goes on, eventually to an Atmos 5.x.x/7.x.x system. I'd really like to timbre match as well as possible, so I am need guidance on best speakers to use. I don't have a ton of money (even picking these up was a big expenditure)...so I'll be piecing the add'l speakers together slowly from eBay and the like.
Logic dictates I'd be best off using Polk speakers of the same era, hopefully with the same drivers...out of the ones in that era, I read the RT55, AB7xx/8xx in-wall series should all be very close. I'd also appreciate any experienced opinions on some other possible newer vintage sets that would be a good fit so I can extend my model # search.
I read conflicting opinions on whether or not an additional sub is beneficial, and the best way to wire the fronts. From what I gather, to get any real additional low end extension, I'll need a high watt, quality sub, maybe 12" and 500w+? I see SVS is recommended by a few folks. It'll be a ways down the road anyway. Anybody who can chime in on the value of a sub (and whether or not to use the LFE input or not) would also be appreciated.
I also read these speakers are pretty power hungry. My Pioneer VSX-1123 only really pushes 90w/channel so I fully expect it to be pretty anemic. For the next upgrade I am thinking of moving to separate amps. The system is rated for up to 300w per front, and 250W for each of the rest of the channels. My question is how much (real) wattage is a good enough sweet spot to really make these speakers perform? Nice amps get exponentially more expensive with watts...with my shoestring budget I may need to get multiple bridgeable amps. Should I be shooting for a minimum of 150wpc? 200w?
Anyways, if you made it this far, thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for an opinions or insight you can provide!
Comments
-
You got them for a good price.Keroppi667 wrote: »The good: I picked them up in pristine physical shape for $600.
The caps, heated resistors, and the voltage regulator, and possibly the output transistors.Keroppi667 wrote: »Other than the obvious fuses, shorted transistors, cold solder joints, etc. is there anything on these amp boards that is a very common failure to look at specifically (other than the caps)?
If you can find Nippon/Panasonic you are good.Keroppi667 wrote: »I intend to replace the main caps on all 3 amp boards anyways as a preventative measure. Can anyone who has replaced them recommend the highest quality/value caps for these? I know Nippon/Panasonic (and Japanese caps in general) are of high quality, but I also know that amplifiers are their own beast, so some guidance here also would be appreciated.
Yes, any of the old stuff would be fine. Also, any of the newer speakers for surround, ATMOS would be fine as well. IMO, its not as critical. Placement, integration, and tuning are the key even if you had identical speakers.Keroppi667 wrote: »Logic dictates I'd be best off using Polk speakers of the same era, hopefully with the same drivers...out of the ones in that era, I read the RT55, AB7xx/8xx in-wall series should all be very close. I'd also appreciate any experienced opinions on some other possible newer vintage sets that would be a good fit so I can extend my model # search.
The 5000 set has a nice punch given the four 8" powered mids. A couple of ported 15"-18" in large rooms or two 12" or a single 15" for medium sized room. Untill you get a dedicated LFE sub, you can alway play with the wiring of the RT3000 subs. See if the standard speaker wire connect or LFE connection works best in your room. I ran mine standard wiring and set them to FULL.Keroppi667 wrote: »Anybody who can chime in on the value of a sub (and whether or not to use the LFE input or not) would also be appreciated.
Given that the LCR are powered you will be fine using your AVR until you can upgrade. Shoot for nothing less that 125-200 w per channel.Keroppi667 wrote: »Should I be shooting for a minimum of 150wpc? 200w?
No Problem.Keroppi667 wrote: »Anyways, if you made it this far, thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for an opinions or insight you can provide!
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Placement, integration, and tuning are the key even if you had identical speakers.
Thanks for your responses! It's funny you mention this, as I am going over my placement options now...going to have to wall mount the cs1000p. I think I'll probably be one of the only people on here with a 60 lb center channel hung on the wall! -
-
nope as in there's a lot of ppl who wall mounted a cs1000p, or nope as in I'm an idiot for planning to do it?
-
I had mine up high n a shelf I made & angled it to the listening spot. Worked well. I about killed myself putting it up there too..
-
Keroppi667 wrote: »nope as in there's a lot of ppl who wall mounted a cs1000p, or nope as in I'm an idiot for planning to do it?
Can you built or purchase a center speaker stand?/ I think that would be a much better idea...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
