S60 vs S60E

DericoDerico Posts: 8
Hey guys,

i recently got a pair of Polks S60E – emphasis on E.
As some of you may or may not know, the E-Model appears to be a slightly different european model. The S60E go from 36 Hz - 40 kHz as opposed to the Polk S60's which go from 26 Hz - 40 kHz.

I'm driving my pair S60E's with a Denon AVR X1600H and im frankly missing the "punch" in the bass. Don't get me wrong, they do go low (but boomy) occasionally. Also, they're really unimpressive on lower volumes. Now, people keep saying these speakers are easy to drive but i'm wondering if my avr is simply too weak to bring out their punchy side. Could that be the case? Or do the 10 Hz lower on the S60 model really make such a big difference in sound and "punchyness"?

Comments

  • motorhead43026motorhead43026 Posts: 3,697
    The anemic AVR is the problem.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; S60'S, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    There are three things that give a man a false sense of courage, a keyboard, alcohol and a firearm.
    Motorhead, 4.12.20

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb and dumber.
  • DericoDerico Posts: 8
    Got a recommendation? I'm still able to return the 1600.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,590
    As I already said in another thread, something like the Yamaha s701 for two channel only, or any denon/marantz/Yamaha with preouts so you can add a power amp down the road.

    I think the denon avr x3600 would be sweet if you want surround sound...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Musical Fidelity A308; Cambridge Azur 851N
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • TopperDudeTopperDude Posts: 115
    you could be sitting in a bad null spot of your room. Try moving the speakers and/or your sitting position a few feet forward or backwards and see if things improve.
  • DericoDerico Posts: 8
    edited July 4
    So i think i finally found a way to get more out of these speakers. I'm equally happy as i'm confused. First of all, in the Settings of my Denon, i turned off "Dynamic Volume". Next, i noticed the reason why movies (and also background music in movies) sounded better in was that the AVR always uses the sound mode "Dolby Sur" in movies. When i changed the sound preset to "Dolby Sur" for listening to music, suddenly the bass was there! Also the vocals became much clearer.

    Now why do my Polk Speakers sound so extremely muddy like a cheap radio when i chose the mode "Direct" and why does the preset "Stereo" not sound as good as "Dolby Sur" for music? Is is because the sound mode Dolby Sound boosts bass and treble and this isn't how these speakers would normally sound at all?

    All i can say is that the Dolby Surround sound setting makes these speakers sound the way i would have expected them to sound more or less.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 8,309
    I'm not entirely sure what's going on here, but I do know that for music playback you will never get that great of a result with an AVR, no matter what mode it's in.
  • TopperDudeTopperDude Posts: 115
    If you can't get them to sound at least decent on direct them something is definitely wrong somewhere in your setup. Could you post pictures of your setup and your room. Hopefully we can figure out what's going on.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    "AUTO" hit the direct button till is goes to "AUTO". THis will take the AVR to AUTO format detect. I find this best for music.

    If you have a sub in the system then you will need LFE+MAIN. When LFE is just selected then when you go into a 2ch with no LFE signal you bass will be gone.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • TopperDudeTopperDude Posts: 115
    edited July 5
    mrloren wrote: »
    "AUTO" hit the direct button till is goes to "AUTO". THis will take the AVR to AUTO format detect. I find this best for music.

    If you have a sub in the system then you will need LFE+MAIN. When LFE is just selected then when you go into a 2ch with no LFE signal you bass will be gone.

    Ofcourse every setup is different but on the whole you should avoid LFE+Main. It can cause some nasty bass cancellation that can actually leave you with less or worse bass performance. If your using a subwoofer, you should leave this setting on LFE. Doing so will also save your av receiver precious amp power while also relieving your main speakers of ultra low bass frequencies it wasn't in most cases designed to play.

    Keep your speakers set on 'Small' with filter set at about 80hz and let your sub handle things below that.

    'Direct' or 'Pure Direct' setting will have your main front speakers playing full range music (without the sub) if thats what you want while the 'stereo' mode will engage the sub (as well as engage the crossover on the main speakers) if you prefer.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    A.F.D is what works best for my system. I have my Speakers set to large LFE+MAIN C/O @ 60HZ. Like I said this works best for my system in my room.

    It's all about trial and error. OP could try to set up like my system and go either way. I can move my system to another room and it would (not could) be different. What works for some doesn't work for all.

    It took me hours of reading with countless audyssey calibration to get my system dialed in.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • PFL89PFL89 Posts: 7
    I also have a set of the S60's-no E version- and are using them in a 5.2 system using a Yamaha RX-A2080 AVR. Have my 2.3's that I bought in '89 or '90, as fronts and the S60's as rears with a CS10 center and 2 HTS-12 subs in opposite corners of the room. IMHO the S60's hold their own with the 2.3's, whether its just music or movies, lots of punch, but not boomy, and they handle tremendous amounts of power!! The Yamaha, S60's and the subs are recent upgrades, have been broken in and I am extremely pleased with the integration of old & new and the results. Geez, I even have the wife saying" TURN IT UP!!"
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