Can I swap the tweeter and the midrange port on my RTi series?

Steverfh

I have a pair of RTi-A7’s as my front speakers.
My CSi-A6 is placed under my TV making the tweeter about 12” lower than the tweeters on my fronts.

This is especially noticeable when using the test tone feature on my receiver; the sound noticeably jumps much higher when moving from my center to the fronts.

I’ve noticed that the piece containing the hole for the midrange port, is the same size and shape and the tweeter housing. Swapping these would bring the tweeter down closer to ear level and almost exactly in line with the tweeter on my center.

Is there any reason why I should stop being picky and try to ignore this problem? I’m confident I can complete the swap unless there’s an unforeseen problem I’ll encounter inside the cabinet.

What do you think? Should I leave it alone?

ambiophonics

Isn't that center intended to work in two orientations? If flipped the other way won't the tweeter be on top and the box will be angled upwards which might help even more?

Steverfh

Yes it is. But that then the tweeter would be even lower making a bigger difference between the center and front speakers tweeter heights. It will also cause the center to be angle way above the listening position.

F1nut

As I stated in your other thread, you have to adjust the channel levels using the calibration program in your AVR.

polrbehr

I have almost the same setup, only I use RTi10 as L & R, and a S35 center, which is placed on the glass shelf the TV sits on, making it lower than the RTi10s. But I never noticed any real difference in sound between the 3, but that could be because the distance I sit from the TV is at least 12' away, and that's how I calibrated it.

I would do as @F1nut suggests before making alterations to your speakers.

gp4jesus

Steve,

In a word , “no.” Listen to Jesse & either learn to live w/it or consider what’s below. That port serves the mid*. Blocking it will change the mid’s response*.
*few on this forum know that speaker’s insides better than I

Raise your TV ~6 inches. I’ve seen shelving that attaches to walls designed to place sound bars and center speakers right where they belong - under the TV.

I wish you good fortune. Tony

Steverfh

Thanks for the responses!

I should’ve been more clear about my intentions.
My plan, and what I ended up executing:

Remove the tweeter and remove the faceplate around the port and subsequent port tube.

Install the tweeter below the midrange driver where the port faceplate used to be, and install the port faceplate and port tube above the midrange driver where the tweeter used to be.

This would result in the tweeter being at ear level, and also much closer to the same height as the tweeter on my center channel.

My limited understanding of enclosure tuning leads me to believe that midrange driver will act the same considering its enclosure size, port distance from driver, port size or port length has not changed.

The tweeter is now below the mid range driver instead of above, but still the same distance away from the driver itself.

I’m assuming it’s never much of an improvement when you stray from the original factory design (unless you’re upgrading components). In my specific situation the only difference I’ve noticed is a higher perceived height of my center Chanel. Probably as a result of better tracking due to more similar tweeter heights.

Or maybe it’s all in my head because I just WANT there to be an improvement. Haha

gp4jesus

Ya got me thinkin’, dude... I didn’t think.

I know you just said this: you want to swap the components. The wires WILL reach. Sooo I say give Jesse’s suggestion* one more try (if you haven’t). After trying that* if it’s still driving ya nuts, plan to try it one speaker at a time. That’s how I do these kinda things

First make SURE you have the right* size* Allen wrench & Allen bit. In addition to needle nose pliers, its* the “key*” tool you need - those aluminum screws are an odd size. Do the final tighten w/the wrench. Its very easy to over tighten w/a cordless screwdriver, speaking from experience. Leave yourself at least 2 hours to complete the first one - do NOT attempt on a schedule.

Some add’l tips:
a. Remove both the tweeter and the port which is about 7-8” long.
b. Examine the openings very carefully - I believe they are the same but don’t hold me to that
c. Behind the port leave a softball sized pocket in the stuffing.

Good fortune! Tony