Model 10A tweeter blown.

Daddio911
Daddio911 Posts: 4
edited March 2020 in Vintage Speakers
Hello, I am the original owner of a break the bank Model 10A's. Yes I spent all my college money on these speakers. Yes the rocked that little dorm room. I seem to have blown another tweeter. Years back this was the norm. The silver one is blown. Can I get a replacement that is the same as original or is there an upgrade? Any advice on upgrades would be greatly appreciated.


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Comments

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,448
    edited March 2020
    Peerless tweeters show up frequently on eBay. I prefer the 7714xxxx ones over the 5514s, but the 5514s aren't exactly crap. Another way to get them is by buying old Model 5s or 4s that you can then scavenge for parts. Might even get some silver basket MWs that way for spares.

    PS: How did you blow tweeters with a 1 amp fast blow fuse? :p
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • I found this as a potential replacement. Your thoughts?

    https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/tweeters/dome/mw-audio-mt-4115-1-inch-dome-tweeter/

    MW Audio MT-4115: 1″ High End Silk Dome Tweeter

    We had these custom made for us designed from the original Peerless 810665 tweeter.
    Very detailed and clear sound. We have been searching for years trying to find a good replacement for the famous Peerless tweeter and now we finally have it.

    8 ohm is a great replacement for the following models:
    – ADS: Works well for many models, but some modification may be needed
    – Cizek: Model I, II and III
    – IMF: TLS50 II
    – Infinity: Monitor Jr, Monitor IIA
    – Jennings Research: Contrara Tower
    – M&K: Model S1 and Satellite-I
    – Paradigm: Studio Studio 20, 20 v.2, 40, 40 v.2, 60, 60 v.2, 80, 80 v.2, 100 and 100 v.2, CC center channel, Active/CC v.2, ADP-450 Bipolar Surrounds. Some modification is needed to the cutout for the terminals.
    – Peerless 810665, DT115, KO10DT tweeter
    – Polk Audio: SL1000 and HF1000 Tweeter. Models include Mini Monitor II, Monitor 4, Monitor 5A, Monitor 5jr, Monitor 7, Monitor 7B, Monitor 7C (some models), Monitor 10, Monitor 10A, Monitor 10B (some models), RTA 12A, RTA 12B, RTA 12C (some models), SDA 1, SDA 2(early model) and more
    – Transsonic Research: S-3

    4 ohm tweeter is a great replacement for the following models:
    – ADS: Works well for many models, but some modification may be needed
    – Bang and Olufsen (B&O): Beovox S-75
    – DLK: Model 1 1/2 (some models)
    – Domus: Omni
    – M&K: Models S2 and S3

    Specs:
    Freq Range: 1000-20,000 Hz
    Fs: 980 Hz
    Power Rating: 50 Watts
    Impedance: 4 or 8 ohms
    Re: 3.6 or 6.8 ohms
    Sensitivity: 89 dB
    Xmax: .5mm
    Voice Coil Diameter: 1″ (25mm)
    Magnet Weight: 228g

    Dimensions:
    Outside: 80mm x 115mm (3.15″ x 4.53″) Cast Aluminum Flange
    Cutout: 70mm (2.76″)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,489
    Have you checked the fuse?

    BTW, the all black tweeter is the Peerless. The silver one is the SL1000 and is not a match for the Peerless.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Yes I did check the fuse. The speaker has power but is cutting out and very scratchy. Best way to describe it is blown. The silver one was a replacement by the shop I purchased them from years ago and its the one that is blown.

    Thanks
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,489
    edited March 2020
    Try cleaning the ends of the fuse and the fuse holder clips with a contact cleaner.

    Regardless of the outcome the SL1000 should be replaced with an original Peerless as the SL1000 has a very different sound.

    Edit: In a pinch you can use the eraser on a pencil to clean the fuse ends and fuse holder clips.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,448
    edited March 2020
    I don't have any first hand experience with those ones from midwestspeakerrepair but maybe someone who has tried them might weigh in. I'm doubtful that they measure up though.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Do you have an outlet for the peerless replacement?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,489
    edited March 2020
    For an original Peerless your best bet is eBay. Make sure it has the tiny hole in the center of the dome.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,389
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,448
    Here's one. Not cheap. Looks like a 5514xxxx even though the number is pretty darn smeared: https://www.ebay.com/itm/peerless-vintage-1-soft-dome-tweeter/264655593618?hash=item3d9eb3e092:g:P0wAAOSwC4xeXx8I
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform