SAE Tree and SAE 1B

Hello. I apologize for my language. I write through a translator. I bought a vintage set of SAE Tree and SAE 1B. I did not have this and I can not find the specification. please share information. opinions of who listened to which acoustics and which styles of music sound better are also interesting. thanks in advance

Comments

  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 8,124
    edited February 2020
    Is it safe to assume your inquiring about SDA 1B's & 3.1's?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    gudnoyez wrote: »
    Is it safe to assume your inquiring about SDA 1B's & 3.1's?

    NO the picture is of the item in question. I'm thinking tree should be SAE Pre

    http://www.wardsweb.org/audio/sae_info.html
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    edited February 2020
    Or SAE Three?

    All I can say is that's very early SAE stuff -- at the high end of the "consumer" grade hifi components of its time. I am not sure it will have aged all that well, and, by modern standards, I don't think most of it sounds (sounded) all that great, either.

    Always impressive looking and - I believe - well built, though.


  • Looks a lot like the SAE Mark 1B a friend of mine had many years ago.
    Old Name: 55LS70Preamp: Decware CSP3 w/ 1 x Amperex 7308, 2 x Amperex 6922's, 1 x RCA 5R4GY Power Amp: Cary SLA Signature 2 X Mullard GZ32's, 2 X RCA 5691's, 4 X Tung Sol 6550 reissuesAnalog: Rega Planar 3 w/ P2000 motor, Deep Groove sub platter, Incognito tonearm wiring, JA Michell counterweight, Tangospinner feet, Dynavector 10 x 5 cartridge, Parks Audio Budgie Hybrid phono stage w/ 2 x BEL 6922's.Radio: HH Scott 330D tuner with HH Scott Type 335 multiplex. Both modified by Mapleshade.Digital: Marantz ND8006Speaker Cables: Kimber Kable 8TC'sSpeakers: Polk Audio LSIM 703'sInterconnects. Tuner: Audioquest Black Mamba II's, phono stage: Kimber Kable Hero's, PreAmp/Amp and Digital: Audioquest King Cobra"s
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    edited February 2020
    and here are the basic specifications for the SAE Mark IIIC stereo power amplifier (this is the best I've been able to find, so far):
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    source: https://www.americanradiohistory.com/Archive-HiFI-Stereo/70s/Stereo-Directory-1976.pdf

    here's the "Mark III" (without any letter suffix), from
    https://www.americanradiohistory.com/Archive-Audio/70s/Audio-1972-09.pdf
    0y9471206d6z.png

    Looks like the original version is 120 watts per channel (if this information is correct).


  • thanks for the information. I will read.
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,009
    I still have a Mark series amp around here somewhere. Very nice stuff in the day. Will need refurbishing. Those equalizers in the preamps were quite faddy then but do nothing good for the sound. I had a 2900 preamp at one point an iteration subsequent to the Mark series. They had some nice Champaign finishes on some of those Marks. Quite desirable with some collectors.
  • Wardsweb
    Wardsweb Posts: 935
    Yes, early SAE Mark 1B preamp and Mark 3 amp. Ahead of their time. High end in their day.
  • Thanks to all who responded. a few more questions. I turned on the power amplifier in the preamplifier sockets (as in the photo black plug). Is this the correct connection? both amplifiers are 220 volt export version.ovgucjzpatc2.jpeg
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  • and the next question. Three switches crack when turned on. I have a spray for processing potentiometers. Will this help or should I completely disassemble it?c1590e7uyukg.jpg
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  • the backlight of the power indicator does not light. light bulb burned out. maybe someone knows what should be?
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    edited February 2020
    I'd strongly recommend plugging the power amplifier directly into the wall -- unless there is a labeled, high current outlet for the power amp, those outlets are 'convenience outlets' for peripheral components, not the power amp.

    If you can 'access' the switches, etc. with the 'straw' on a can of good quality electrical switch/contact cleaner, go for it. Be sure to unplug the preamp from the mains first! Resist the temptation to over-spray, and let things dry out before powering up. There is a good thread on using "DeOxit" (a good quality, popular contact cleaner) at audiokarma.

    The bulb may be hard to find. Check the schematic for that preamp if you can find a copy. You'll need to match the voltage and current draw (and size). The lamp can be adapted to an LED, but it will take some information and some knowledge (and maybe even skill). EDIT: Oh, come to think of it, they may be LEDs already! SAE was all about "high tech" for the era!

    Hope these comments are at least a bit helpful.

  • thanks for the information. I also think that plugging a power amplifier into these outlets is a risk. I turned it on only to check how everything works and at low volume.
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,009
    If it were me, I would use that equalizer defeat button
  • fireserzh
    fireserzh Posts: 22
    Another question for connoisseurs. can 4 ohm speakers be connected or not? in the specifications that I read nowhere do not write about it. what I saw is 2x 120 watts at 8 ohms
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,283
    Yes, and you should get 180 to 240 watts @4ohm
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