Questions about RTiA9 and CSiA6 crossovers
On each of these speakers, which drivers are assigned to which binding posts?
RTiA9 - I'm assuming the 3 bass drivers are off the bottom posts and the two midranges and tweeter off of top posts. Is that correct?
CSiA6 - not really sure
Appreciate any input you could provide.
RTiA9 - I'm assuming the 3 bass drivers are off the bottom posts and the two midranges and tweeter off of top posts. Is that correct?
CSiA6 - not really sure
Appreciate any input you could provide.
KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
Comments
-
The top posts are for the tweeters only.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
-
YesPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yes
Ah that's too bad. I guess there is no benefit to bi-amping them since that tweeter only pulls what, a few watts. Regardless I'm guessing 200W from a Monolith amp should be good enough for them.KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780 -
Hello BjornB17,
I just saw this Post.
I also just read your post on you are changing brands..
Maybe you are still interested about the RTiA9 Binding Posts.
I bought the Polk Audio A9s..
I, too, wanted to know.
So I tried hooking up one Speaker post at a time..
I'm not sure about the CSiA6, but, the RTi A9s :
The top Set Post are for the Two MIds and Tweeter.
The Bottom Post Set goes to the 3 Woofers.
I am going to Bi Amp my A9s.
Waiting for the 2nd Amp and SCHIIT AUDIO LOKI to arrive.
MC 7100 ( 100w/Ch ) is way more than enough to drive either Sets.
Too loud with the Volume control at 1/2 turn..
Alton T.
-
Hello BjornB17,
I just saw this Post.
I also just read your post on you are changing brands..
Maybe you are still interested about the RTiA9 Binding Posts.
I bought the Polk Audio A9s..
I, too, wanted to know.
So I tried hooking up one Speaker post at a time..
I'm not sure about the CSiA6, but, the RTi A9s :
The top Set Post are for the Two MIds and Tweeter.
The Bottom Post Set goes to the 3 Woofers.
I am going to Bi Amp my A9s.
Waiting for the 2nd Amp and SCHIIT AUDIO LOKI to arrive.
MC 7100 ( 100w/Ch ) is way more than enough to drive either Sets.
Too loud with the Volume control at 1/2 turn..
Alton T.
Not without an active crossover you aren't.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The top posts are for the tweeters only.
Can’t help w/some ‘A9 details such as an A6 detail. Each mid XO’d to the tweeter at a different frequency: 1.5 hz & 3.8hz. The A9 mids may follow suit.I am going to Bi Amp my A9s.
Waiting for the 2nd Amp and SCHIIT AUDIO LOKI to arrive.
MC 7100 ( 100w/Ch ) is way more than enough to drive either Sets.
Too loud with the Volume control at 1/2 turn..
Alton T.
I’d give each speaker their own amp😊😊
1. IF you’re gonna bypass (remove) the LP to the woofers and the HP to the mids.
2. textbook bi-amping, tri-amping is so much more than a louder system, believe me
3. a VERY flexible tone control, or rather more accurately, an EQ is easy an external fix, but trust me on two fronts, as F1 alludes, the problem and the solution is the CROSSOVER* components*. Take it from me the RTi tweeter isn’t bad sounding - by itself. Upgrade* or remove** those* you’ll be MUCH happier.
*several reports well worth it; plenty of available advice
**see #2 plus upgrade a cap & resistor filtering tweeter
Back in my car stereo days, and more recently messing w/pro gear, no amount EQ***, regardless of its quality and level of sophistication*** w/ make up for, in your case, cheap XO parts.
***full parametric EQ allowing extreme adjustments
I’ve traveled* the (EQ) road you’re on. Either upgrade all the XO parts filtering the mids & tweets
or
upgrade just tweeter filtering and EXO mids & woofers - in its own way less work
*Numerous times - consumer & pro
I’m finished beating the dead 🐎. PM me for EXO guidance
Tony 🔈Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Thank You Guys..
Thanks for the time to type all that Tony.
I appreciate the insights.
I'd better get off this post...
This is BojornB17's Post..
Sorry Bojorn...
Alton