Questions about RTiA9 and CSiA6 crossovers

BjornB17BjornB17 Posts: 753
On each of these speakers, which drivers are assigned to which binding posts?

RTiA9 - I'm assuming the 3 bass drivers are off the bottom posts and the two midranges and tweeter off of top posts. Is that correct?

CSiA6 - not really sure

Appreciate any input you could provide.
KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 45,206
    The top posts are for the tweeters only.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BjornB17BjornB17 Posts: 753
    F1nut wrote: »
    The top posts are for the tweeters only.

    On both models?
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 45,206
    Yes
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BjornB17BjornB17 Posts: 753
    F1nut wrote: »
    Yes

    Ah that's too bad. I guess there is no benefit to bi-amping them since that tweeter only pulls what, a few watts. Regardless I'm guessing 200W from a Monolith amp should be good enough for them.
    KEF Q150 | Rythmik F12 | Yamaha Aventage RX-A780
  • Alton TAlton T Posts: 68
    edited February 4
    q68r2vmn2ren.jpg
    Hello BjornB17, :)
    I just saw this Post.
    I also just read your post on you are changing brands..

    Maybe you are still interested about the RTiA9 Binding Posts.

    I bought the Polk Audio A9s..
    I, too, wanted to know.
    So I tried hooking up one Speaker post at a time..

    I'm not sure about the CSiA6, but, the RTi A9s :
    The top Set Post are for the Two MIds and Tweeter.
    The Bottom Post Set goes to the 3 Woofers.


    I am going to Bi Amp my A9s.
    Waiting for the 2nd Amp and SCHIIT AUDIO LOKI to arrive.

    MC 7100 ( 100w/Ch ) is way more than enough to drive either Sets.
    Too loud with the Volume control at 1/2 turn..


    Alton T. :)

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 45,206
    McInPolk wrote: »
    q68r2vmn2ren.jpg
    Hello BjornB17, :)
    I just saw this Post.
    I also just read your post on you are changing brands..

    Maybe you are still interested about the RTiA9 Binding Posts.

    I bought the Polk Audio A9s..
    I, too, wanted to know.
    So I tried hooking up one Speaker post at a time..

    I'm not sure about the CSiA6, but, the RTi A9s :
    The top Set Post are for the Two MIds and Tweeter.
    The Bottom Post Set goes to the 3 Woofers.


    I am going to Bi Amp my A9s.
    Waiting for the 2nd Amp and SCHIIT AUDIO LOKI to arrive.

    MC 7100 ( 100w/Ch ) is way more than enough to drive either Sets.
    Too loud with the Volume control at 1/2 turn..


    Alton T. :)

    Not without an active crossover you aren't.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,549
    edited February 5
    F1nut wrote: »
    The top posts are for the tweeters only.
    CSi A6 - yes. I’m one of the few that have been inside.

    Can’t help w/some ‘A9 details such as an A6 detail. Each mid XO’d to the tweeter at a different frequency: 1.5 hz & 3.8hz. The A9 mids may follow suit.
    McInPolk wrote: »
    q68r2vmn2ren.jpgI am going to Bi Amp my A9s.
    Waiting for the 2nd Amp and SCHIIT AUDIO LOKI to arrive.

    MC 7100 ( 100w/Ch ) is way more than enough to drive either Sets.
    Too loud with the Volume control at 1/2 turn..

    Alton T. :)
    Alton, I conditionally applaud your efforts 😊.
    I’d give each speaker their own amp😊😊

    1. IF you’re gonna bypass (remove) the LP to the woofers and the HP to the mids.
    2. textbook bi-amping, tri-amping is so much more than a louder system, believe me
    3. a VERY flexible tone control, or rather more accurately, an EQ is easy an external fix, but trust me on two fronts, as F1 alludes, the problem and the solution is the CROSSOVER* components*. Take it from me the RTi tweeter isn’t bad sounding - by itself. Upgrade* or remove** those* you’ll be MUCH happier.
    *several reports well worth it; plenty of available advice
    **see #2 plus upgrade a cap & resistor filtering tweeter

    Back in my car stereo days, and more recently messing w/pro gear, no amount EQ***, regardless of its quality and level of sophistication*** w/ make up for, in your case, cheap XO parts.
    ***full parametric EQ allowing extreme adjustments

    I’ve traveled* the (EQ) road you’re on. Either upgrade all the XO parts filtering the mids & tweets
    or
    upgrade just tweeter filtering and EXO mids & woofers - in its own way less work
    *Numerous times - consumer & pro

    I’m finished beating the dead 🐎. PM me for EXO guidance

    Tony 🔈
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Alton TAlton T Posts: 68
    Thank You Guys.. :)
    Thanks for the time to type all that Tony.
    I appreciate the insights.

    I'd better get off this post...
    This is BojornB17's Post..
    Sorry Bojorn...

    Alton :)




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