VTF-15H MK2

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I've just ordered the VTF-15H MK2 sub and was hoping to get some feedback in terms of setting it up. Here is my setup:

Fronts - A9s with A6 - 3 x outlaw 2200 monoblocks
Surrounds - A7s - powered by Yamaha HTC-6180 AVR (120wpc)
Rears - A5s - powered by same AVR.

I realize I need more power and will be adding another 2 channel amp in the summer/fall, whenever my wife gets over her anger. The new amp, hopefully approx 300wpc, will power the L/R and I'll move 2 monoblocks to the A7 surrounds.

My question is should I run my speakers full range or set them as small?

Also, I have a PSW125 that I was thinking of adding as a second sub. Would I even hear it over the VTF-15H MK2? lol

Thanks!
Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Aurora 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Denon AVR-X3700H | Amp - Outlaw 5000, Outlaw 2200 x 3, Outlaw 2220 x 2
Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Atmos - Polk Audio RTiA1 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2

Comments

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,556
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    Try the speakers full or small and see which you like best.

    Put the PSW in another system or sell/toss it
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,025
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    I agree with Enders that you should experiment of course, but it also seems like a waste to me to buy massive, full range speakers, put good power behind them, and not run them full range.

    And I also agree about the sub. It’ll just muddy things up. Leave it out if that system.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
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    Almost agree with the above. The front three I would run large, providing you like the sound better than small. I would run the surrounds and rears small while an AVR is powering them. If you amp the A7’s then you should try them in the large/small settings.

    Think the AVR will struggle a little with the A7’s running large, but it won’t have a problem with the A5’s.
  • simoes
    simoes Posts: 71
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    I will sell the PSW125 and put the money towards a new amp. The reason I asked about running large/small was to maximize the output of the sub, but I think I like the idea of running the fronts large. I will experiment with the surrounds and rears.
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Aurora 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Denon AVR-X3700H | Amp - Outlaw 5000, Outlaw 2200 x 3, Outlaw 2220 x 2
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Atmos - Polk Audio RTiA1 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,856
    edited January 2020
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    What size is the room, anyway?

    Does your AVR let you set separate crossover points for the different channel sets? Even if not, you could even just setting a lower crossover point for the sub to let your mains be a little more active if you prefer. I use the first-gen VTF-15 and run it at 70Hz or 75Hz with anything up front, currently 703s for HT. The 80Hz crossover point for me isn't quite as clean in my space.

    Note that if you have a center in a cabinet without an open back, it might sound a little boomy if you drop the sub crossover, making the other speakers more active in the lower frequencies.

    On VTF-15, experiment with the Q setting and the port plugs, too. I like my bass a little looser, and the Q control on the VTF line is a nice feature for this.
    Post edited by msg on
    I disabled signatures.
  • simoes
    simoes Posts: 71
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    The room is 15x13 but open to the entire basement which is another 30x14 (L shaped basement). I’m pretty new to all this so I’m not familiar with crossover points and frequencies. Forums like this is a great place to learn!
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Aurora 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Denon AVR-X3700H | Amp - Outlaw 5000, Outlaw 2200 x 3, Outlaw 2220 x 2
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Atmos - Polk Audio RTiA1 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,166
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    Just an FYI, if you're running speakers at "full" w/sub and watching a heavy LFE bass drop movie like Interstellar you can smoke crossovers
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • simoes
    simoes Posts: 71
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    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Just an FYI, if you're running speakers at "full" w/sub and watching a heavy LFE bass drop movie like Interstellar you can smoke crossovers

    Are you suggesting that I don’t run speakers as large?
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Aurora 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Denon AVR-X3700H | Amp - Outlaw 5000, Outlaw 2200 x 3, Outlaw 2220 x 2
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Atmos - Polk Audio RTiA1 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,166
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    During music blend with your ears

    Movies I’d run small and pending receiver if you can crossover each set of channels

    Fronts
    Center
    Rears

    I’d research the slopes and crossover pending speaker slopes

    If you only have options of global crossover setting then I’d experiment 60-80htz settings

    Just my humble opinion
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,976
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    Your HSU is a formidable “heavy lifter*.” I’m certain it’s best utilized in most ANY system to handle everything below 60-80hz for most speakers. Details below
    *read a short review.
    Try the speakers full or small* and see which you like best.
    IF you want to set it manually, you have a LOT of listening, and a fair amount of connecting/disconnecting front of you! I’d start w/no more than 2 channels at a time.
    1. Measure the distance from your “hot seat” to your sub & each channel. You’ll need to plug in this
    Info to your AVR. Set all channels to Small*
    2. Disconnect or shut down any channel not in use.
    3. Set* your AVR to LP your sub @ 32**hz; HP your LR at the same** & tweak from there. Familiar music is very helpful to dial them in.
    ** low as possible but no lower.
    From here I’ll take a 🍅 or 🍅🍅, but, w/the sub on, feed whatever speaker(s) you’re dialing in next, LR signal and set the LP/HP as follows:
    3. A7s*: start w/60hz listening VERY carefully to the mid range for clarity as it is NOT HP’d @ 125hz. The website is wrong***
    4. CC* & A5s*: 80hz.
    Now return all speaker connections to their correct channels and set the levels. Put on a familiar movie and fasten your seatbelts!
    *** I’ve done surgery on mine

    If you set your LR to Full, you’ll “cut off” those channels @32 hz I know there’s a fair amount of LR output below 32hz.
    “At the end of the day” you’re doing this for you & the Misses.
    Put the PSW 125* in another system or sell/toss it
    yup. I believe that* will mess up more than help.

    Sorry for my long winded opinion 🥴. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,458
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    I have a VTF3-MK5,

    Front and center are set to large, LFE+Main is on so I can use the C/O when set to large

    C/O for L/R is set @ 60HZ, 80HZ for the rest of the system.

    In the bedroom system with S20's I have all set to small and C/O @ 80HZ.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music