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  • MFattal
    MFattal Posts: 25
    Nightfall wrote: »
    Some pointers and advice. It looks like you're listening to them laying in bed? If you're back by the headboard they are toed in way too much. If a laser pointer came directly out of the tweeters you'd want them to cross just behind your head, not in front of you. They really should be further apart too but it doesn't look like you have much choice in that.

    Second, you really shouldn't be blocking the vents on the AVR, especially with another hot device. It could really affect the longevity of the AVR, nor is it good for your laptop. It'll be working double duty to get rid of that excess heat.

    Thank you for the advice, I bought them bot knowing how much power they had, my bro listens to them at -35 to -25db. Any more and he'd be going deaf soon. I bought them on impulse and just wanted to give him his first pair of speakers. I have a pair of JBL xti100 and they were my first pair of speakers. Been searching for months for a good purchase and then these guys came up for sale and I bought them the next day. Couldn't take them for myself since bro's bday is coming up and Christmas and all that... So he got them :) . Anyway, will try to adjust them better, thanks for the advice
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,281
    Get on the hunt for replacement drivers on ebay etc and ship to your friend in NYC. Make sure that you communicate they need to be packed properly shipped to NYC and also overseas to Egypt. In the mean time maybe Flex Seal or similar product may work, IDK, just a thought. It is not silicone based.
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • MFattal
    MFattal Posts: 25
    Y'all are getting me worried about the spare parts. I literally just sent Polk an email asking for their recommendations and if they had spare parts in stock. Does Polk not manufacture substitutes anymore? If so, Are they not any better? Do they dry out with time? The speakers run fine, I'll show you tommorow with a good video or two. :) Thank you for your concerns.

    I would like to add that no one mentioned capacitors. What's the deal with those? Also, is there any way to measure a speaker objectively? Other than visible cracks, my ignorant ears don't hear anything wrong. Can I measure things with a meter of sorts? Just wondering and hoping to learn...
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,281
    We're not trying to scare you. We just want leading down the path for a quality restoration for best listening
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • MFattal
    MFattal Posts: 25
    [/b][/b][/b][/i]quote="txcoastal1;c-2557233"]We're not trying to scare you. We just want leading down the path for a quality restoration for best listening [/quote]

    I know. Look, frankly speaking, I'm a bit new to all this if you can't tell. I'm also a bit flustered because this is the 2nd pair I buy and it also needs a bit of work.

    What speakers are you rocking and what set up do you have to accompany it?
    Also, do you have any idea about changing capacitors/them drying up? If the mids gave dried up, surely the capacitors need work too.
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,281
    I'm definitely not the Polk restoration guru, just the knowledge learned here on the forum.

    The guru's will post the links. Yes restoring and upgrading capacitors in the crossovers will definitely improve your speakers along with the drivers and tweeter upgrade/replacement as mentioned

    As for the gear that I own/owned
    Here is a sample
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    I would second the other comment that you really need to make sure you have the left speaker on the left and the right on the right. They are designed to only work one way, as the side by side woofers are crossed over differently.

    I could not see the serial numbers but if one ends in R and one with a L then that would be your orientation.

    Also, once you figure out the cracking rubber issue, you want to make sure the speakers are air tight. You can test by pressing and holding the passive radiator (PR) in. When the woofers move out, (from u pressing in on the PR) they should stay out or at least take 4 seconds or so to return to original position, all while holding the passive radiator in. No need to push too hard. If the woofers fall right back into thier original position you have a major air leak. This will really take away from your bass response.

    You may also down the road want to replace the capacitors. Many here have done including me and you should have no problem getting the help you need.

    Welcome to the forum.
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    The current/ original capacitors used for the crossovers are past their best years. Rebuilding the crossovers would be a good idea.
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited December 2019
    The RTA 12B IS mirror-imaged. One mid-woofer has a different/restricted frequency range than the other. So, yes, one mid-woofer of each cabinet is intended to be "inner" and the other "outer" when the speaker pair is set-up. I'm reasonably certain the 12C is similar.

    If I were looking to repair weather-checking of the drivers, I'd wander out to the garage, grab the can of Gasgacinch gasket sealer. It's liquid neoprene. Brush it on/into the cracked area, let it dry, hope for the best. I wouldn't buy new drivers until after verifying that the fresh coating of rubber didn't work.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gasgacinch-440-Gasket-Sealer-Dressing/dp/B0012TTDN8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gasgacinch&qid=1577308991&sr=8-1
    Same thing, different container
    https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-9300-Gasgacinch-Gasket-Sealer/dp/B000CNAV1I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=gasgacinch&qid=1577309074&sr=8-2

    Electrolytic capacitors that old don't really "need" to be tested. They're declining, and have been for years. Even if they still register the appropriate capacitance, the ESR will likely be high. Tell your brother he has a new project.

    There's a huge number of amplifiers that will work very well with those speakers. Keep in mind that anything approaching 20--30 years old will need to have the electrolytic caps replaced just like the speakers do; for the same reason. This is an expensive proposition; but returns the "vintage" amp to better-than-new condition in most regards. Given your location--you have 220V/50Hz electricity? You'll either be buying an amp with a multi-voltage power supply, or one specifically set up for local voltage/frequency. This means you're less likely to import one from North America, and maybe more likely to get one locally or from Europe. 4-ohm (or less) operation is required; lower is better and also more expensive. Do not be tricked into buying a discount amp that has a power-supply strangulation switch on the back panel, that cripples the power supply into 4-ohm loads so as to not stress the under-built "guts" of the amplifier.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
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    Worth every penny to upgrade the caps on the 12s.
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  • MFattal
    MFattal Posts: 25
    @CH46E could you kindly list the exact capacitors I will be needing to recap a pair of 12cs? I want to recap it after 3 years of joy. Are there crossovers inside of it? or is that crossover for both mids and the tweeter? Thanks.
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