5.1 system with RTiA3 and CSiA6 , upgrade to Atmos
Hi,
I have a new AppleTV and LG OLED TV which I’ve connected bypassing my Yamaha receiver. My Blu-ray jukebox and current receiver support HD audio (but not Atmos) using HDMI 1.4. The ARC return for sound is limited to 5.1 compressed so I need to upgrade my receiver for HD sound and add or upgrade speakers for Atmos/DTS:X.
I have RTiA3 and CSiA6 front and center. The rear, Polk RMS6000TD (mini), and sub, Velodyne CHT series, are older. What upgrades would you recommend?
Should I move the RTiA3 to the rear and get new fronts with upward facing speakers? Should I just add high wall speakers? Ceilings are plaster so ceilings mounts are more difficult.
I can upgrade the rear and sub and add high speakers in the front or I can move the current fronts to the rear and get 2 or 4 new fronts. Would a matching Polk sub improve LFE?
I’m also getting a new receiver to power it all.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks,
David
I have a new AppleTV and LG OLED TV which I’ve connected bypassing my Yamaha receiver. My Blu-ray jukebox and current receiver support HD audio (but not Atmos) using HDMI 1.4. The ARC return for sound is limited to 5.1 compressed so I need to upgrade my receiver for HD sound and add or upgrade speakers for Atmos/DTS:X.
I have RTiA3 and CSiA6 front and center. The rear, Polk RMS6000TD (mini), and sub, Velodyne CHT series, are older. What upgrades would you recommend?
Should I move the RTiA3 to the rear and get new fronts with upward facing speakers? Should I just add high wall speakers? Ceilings are plaster so ceilings mounts are more difficult.
I can upgrade the rear and sub and add high speakers in the front or I can move the current fronts to the rear and get 2 or 4 new fronts. Would a matching Polk sub improve LFE?
I’m also getting a new receiver to power it all.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks,
David
Comments
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Hi David,
I would get up firing speakers as those are the least effective. Either in wall as high as you can get them, or get something like Polk OWM3 or 5 and mount them up in the corner angled down at you.
For the rear surrounds I would get RTiA1s or if you can afford if upgrade your mains to A5s or A7s and move the 3s back. Atmos recommends all direct firing speakers, no dipoles or bipoles.
As for the LFE, I would consider upgrading but there is no timber matching when it comes to sub bass. IMO subs are polks weak point. Look at HSU or SVS. Under a grand HSU is the best bang for your buck (I love mine!). Over a grand SVS has some badass subs...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Welcome to CP.
An A6 as a CC and A3s for something is a great beginning.
Rooftop made knowledgeable recommendations.
I’ll add to his. If you use either:
1. A3s* for LRs & either a 2d pair or A1s would do well as surrounds.
and/or
2. the A5s are fairly AVR friendly though they don’t mind quality power. The A7s need more than what most AVRs can do. Do NOT consider the ‘9s w/out an amp on-hand
*like the A5s they like quality power too
3. If space and $ allows multiple subs pays dividends for the bottom end
I regret I can’t help you beyond 5.X or 7.X
Merry Christmas and happy hunting/buying/listening!
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Instead of replacing my old sub should I consider keeping it and adding a second or am I better off replacing?
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Instead of replacing my old sub should I consider keeping it and adding a second or am I better off replacing?
Replace. Your current sub is more like a mid bass module not a sub. It’s just muddying things up lol...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
All depends on budget,
I'd keep the A3 as the fronts and get A1's for rears. save some for a good sub
For height speakers, if you cant add in-ceiling I'd go for putting something high up the wall as you can pointing at the listening position
Receiver, Denon Marantz or Yamaha. A4L has good prices if you don't mind refurb https://www.accessories4less.com/ Get an AVR with preouts so you can add an amp later.
Denon AVR-X3XXX and up
Marantz SR6XXX and up
Yamaha RX-A8XX and up
Sub,
HSU http://hsuresearch.com/subwoofers.html VTF2 and up
or
SVS https://www.svsound.com/collections/subwoofers 2000 series and up
Bummer you might have missed the SVS 12NSD special deals.
One good sub is better than two so-so subs two good subs rockWhen I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
If you have a fairly large room, I would get the RTI A5’s for the front, move the A3’s to surround duty.
Would probably suggest a Marantz AVR, get one of the older series. Not any major bells has come out since ATMOS, as far as sound mixing is concerned.
Would upgrade that sub. SVS and HSU are good choices, but the Rythmik F-12/300 should also be on your radar. At $700 shipped, pretty good choice for a mid sized room. Like all ID companies, they’re pretty honest giving product advice.
I would stop there, considering the plaster ceiling, and give that a listen for a short time. You can always add on wall or on ceiling speakers at some future point, but you also may be perfectly happy with a 5.1 configuration.
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BTW: you haven’t shared approximate sq footage, open or closed floor plan w/us. All will, in varying degrees, dictate your systems’ power (amp) requirements.
Also, I recommend A3s as surrounds, regardless of your choice of LR (A3s, A5s, or A7s) as their SQ is worth the few $ difference*. I upgraded surrounds to A3s after using A1s for 7 years**, not expecting much except allowing a lower HP setting (90 vs 80hz) and higher power handling - I was pleasantly surprised!
*$25-$40?
**over 3 years ago
Closing note to dgasck: you’re on a journey, that more than a few of us started years ago*. Decide what defines your system as complete. Consider all info w/the end & your wallet in mind. If you assemble your system like you should eat - slowly, one bite at a time, your patience will reward you.
*me, over 11 years ago and I’m still not finished but that’s for another day.
Many of us didn’t get where we are overnight* and neither will you - took me well over a year before I finalized my LR having had my existing CC & surrounds as above So take ❤️ by stepping slowly. That will prevent the expensive frustration of regrettable decisions.
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s