LSi15 Feet Insert Repair

skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
edited October 23 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
The inserts on the bottoms of my LSi15s are loose. I have spikes screwed into them presently and the speakers are wobbly. The inserts don’t look like a screw-in type. They may be pressed in. I was hoping to epoxy them in but I don’t see a way to remove them to get epoxy in the hole.

Anyone have experience with these or ideas? I may have to drill new holes and use new screw-in inserts.
Thanks
Stan

7lv30kiptpeh.jpeg
Stan

Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601

Comments

  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,501
    They can be repaired easily and quite cheaply by ordering LSiM 705's from Adorama... ;)
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Somebody has not been kind to the bottom.

    I agree Stan, those look like press fit. Run a bolt into it all the way, then use the bolt head to attach a vise-grip to and pull straight up.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Does it have split sides like this?

    mcxvct56nggg.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    If it's barbed like this one pulling it out will rip out the hole.

    a42xkzqhv7x3.png
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
    edited October 23
    Someone was not too kind to these speakers, at least the bottoms. There are a few good chips out of the lacquer. The tops look very good still.

    They look kind of rounded (not sure why) and serrated or possibly barbed. I was afraid to yank it out and mess up the hole but that may be the only way. Worst case, I could yank them, fill the hole with some kind of filler and re-drill.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    You know Stan, you might be better off drilling new holes for new threaded inserts.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
    I'm going to try yanking one of the inserts out and see that is there. I am end up just re-drilling and installing new inserts.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Ok, good luck.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
    The original locations look pretty ideal for stability. I am thinking about removing them, filling the holes, drill and install new inserts. When we talked last week you mentioned epoxies that had different fillers. If I can pick your furniture restoration brain, is there something that you would recommend to fill the holes?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    A wood dowel should do the trick.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Glued in, of course.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,501
    F1nut wrote: »
    Glued in, of course.

    With lots of Gorilla Grip. :p ;) >:)

    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,966
    Ugh
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,501
    That didn’t take long, lol!

    Do not use Gorilla Grip. All it’s good for is a weak bond and a permanent mess.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,501
    That would be my move.^^^
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • mak99mak99 Posts: 328
    skrol wrote: »
    New thought... Outriggers

    You might check these out also, though they are more expensive. They would attach to your plinth using the factory insert locations, which only need to be fairly snug, but not cranked down to 1,000 ft-lbs... :)

    https://soundocity.com/
    https://soundocity.com/product-category/outriggers/

    I have the "steel-spike" versions on my current media room towers (LSiM707s), my previous towers (RTiA7s) and my two-channel system towers (Wharfedale EM99s). The outriggers are quite nice, made out of beefy steel, and make the speaker more stable with the wider contact points.

    No affiliation w/ Sondocity - just a happy customer since 2010!
    Main HT:
    Epson 5020UBe
    135" Elite Screens fixed frame
    Marantz SR7007
    Emotiva XPA-100 x3 (fronts), UPA-7 (surrounds)
    Oppo BDP-103D/BDP-83
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Panamax M5410 Pro x2
    Polk LSiM707s, LSiC706, 80 F/X RT (80F/X Ls needs installing), 65-RT
    Seaton Sound/MCCA MFW "Turbo" (orig. AV123 MFW-15)
    Velodyne SMS-1
    I/Cs: MP 12ga/4-cond (fronts); MP 12ga (surrounds), MP HDMI (all sources), some BJC sprinkled thruout
    Harmony 1100
    Salamander Twin 30 C/B

    * FOR SALE NOW: Onkyo TX-SR805, CSi40, Harmony 890 Pro NIB, Harmony One NIB
  • mak99mak99 Posts: 328
    These pictures show the 707's outriggers:

    vnijdvcggn6p.jpg
    ^^ before removing the super-sliders

    xuwdfjw1b36j.jpg
    ^^ front outrigger with steel spikes fully inserted
    Main HT:
    Epson 5020UBe
    135" Elite Screens fixed frame
    Marantz SR7007
    Emotiva XPA-100 x3 (fronts), UPA-7 (surrounds)
    Oppo BDP-103D/BDP-83
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Panamax M5410 Pro x2
    Polk LSiM707s, LSiC706, 80 F/X RT (80F/X Ls needs installing), 65-RT
    Seaton Sound/MCCA MFW "Turbo" (orig. AV123 MFW-15)
    Velodyne SMS-1
    I/Cs: MP 12ga/4-cond (fronts); MP 12ga (surrounds), MP HDMI (all sources), some BJC sprinkled thruout
    Harmony 1100
    Salamander Twin 30 C/B

    * FOR SALE NOW: Onkyo TX-SR805, CSi40, Harmony 890 Pro NIB, Harmony One NIB
  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,825
    Thanks they do look beefier than the Parts Express versions.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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