Car audio install question....

I know we have at least a couple resident car audio gurus. Hoping to get some guidance here.

I have a 2019 Toyota Tundra crewmax with non jbl stereo. In the most direct way I can possibly say it - the stock system SUCKS. That being said, the wife is NOT on board with a full audio makeover and she wants to keep the stock head unit (there is no aftermarket unit that will integrate the factory microphone for Bluetooth so you have the run a new mic).

I have replaced and installed head units and speakers on at least a dozen cars in my day. However, the Toyota wiring is apparently unique compared to other automakers. They run full signal to the rear speakers which made them extremely easy to upgrade (jbl club 6500c components). I added a powered mini subwoofer under the passenger seat - a kenwood ksc-sw11. I am NOT looking to rattle the door frames and it adds some low end punch to music that is sorely lacking on the stock.

My question then is how to replace the dash and door speakers? Apparently the signal is run to the tweeter and then to the woofer in the front. The dash tweeter is run off the head unit and the woofer powered by the small stock amp. Therefore running the typical wiring harness that you get with crutchfield won’t work - if you split the harness at the woofer and run new tweeters you aren’t getting full signal. I suppose I could run new speaker wire from the head unit and rewire but that would include fishing through the door boot and such.

My question is: could I run new dash speakers by desoldering the connection at the factory speaker and resoldering to a new low impedance 3 ohm speaker? I could include the stock
Bass blocker as well by doing those. Most all of the speakers sold are 4 ohm and the factory unit runs at 2 ohms. The loss of power / volume on a 4 ohm speaker is too great.

OR......

Could I JUST replace the woofer with a 2 way coaxial, low impedance speaker and improve sound quality.

Again, I am looking to stay budget friendly but improve sound quality. The wiring of this truck is unique and while most companies would say split at woofer to crossover and run to tweeter, that sacrifices A TON of sounds quality by this configuration. Also, I am not in the the market at this time to add a new head unit or amplifier. Looking for a simplistic, minimalist upgrade to the actual speakers.
Shawn
AVR: Marantz SR-5011
Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
Front: Polk LsiM703
Rear: LSI fx
Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
DVD Player: Sony PS4

Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    All other things being equal, going from 2 to 4 ohm will only drop 3dB, easily remedied with the volume knob...

    I'll have to keep an eye out for the newer yo-yos and get back to you on a suggestion.