Need Help Choosing Subs and Amp

pHilLyBluNt
pHilLyBluNt Posts: 13
edited May 2004 in Car Audio & Electronics
Im pretty new to car audio, and i dont know too much about any of it. But right now i have a little bit of a system in my focus. I am looking to upgrade my subs and amp, and i was wondering if any of you can give me some suggestions for some new subs and an amp to power them. Right now i have 2 12" JL W0's http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/12w0.html, and they're being powered by a Eclipse EA2212 amp http://www.eclipse-web.com/index_amp.html. I have about 1000-1500 dollars to spend on the upgrade and im more interested in SP than SQ, so if anyone has some suggestions, please help me.

Thanks
pHiLlyBluNt
Post edited by pHilLyBluNt on

Comments

  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited May 2004
    OK, $1500 is a great budget and you can get some serious DB with that. I shall start off with the baddest you can get which will eat eat up most of that $1500 but will pound your eyeballs out of your skull.

    The meanest SPL subs Ive ever heard are these Kicker L7's. They have a warehouse of output and will pound you til you puke! You get you a pair of these and feed em with This bad **** MTX amp that puts out an underrated 1500 rms and will move some serious air!! Now this will cost you $1400 which will not leave a lot left over for the -20 guage wire youre going to need to feed this monster amp but on a cheaper note Im sure I can find something a little easier on the wallet.

    Go here and check out Diamond Audios CM3 15s. They have a MSRP of $240 each (which means you can get them for about $200) and they will not only handle 600 rms but work in a very small box. I would stick with the MTX mentioned above but be careful with the gain setting as this beast will put out 150 rms each over its rated power! This set up will be a little tighter sounding but not have as much DB as the Kicker set up however this will cost you $1100 which will leave you with some more scatch for wiring and all.

    Im pretty much all about SQ and dont care that much for SPL but if I were to build a system for decibels only I would go with the Kicker/MTX set up. The subs are super loud and the amp is indestructible and will put out more power than you can handle all day long and never so much as whimper.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2004
    what kind of car do you have?
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • pHilLyBluNt
    pHilLyBluNt Posts: 13
    edited May 2004
    I've got a 2000 ford focus hatchback
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2004
    do you know how many amps your alternator is?
    if not, look on it, it should say somewhere, if not, go to a dealer and ask, when youre dealing with that much current draw, you could be asking for electrical problems
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • pHilLyBluNt
    pHilLyBluNt Posts: 13
    edited May 2004
    My 2000 Ford Focus Hatchback has a 110 amp alternator, which im guessin aint gonna cut it.
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited May 2004
    not for the kind of power you can afford. staying at the same price point, you can get more sq and less spl if you change drivers. since you're spl tho, i'd say get a yellowtop or 2, cap (couldn't hurt), and good wiring (and the big 3), and spend a couple hundred less on the subs/amp. result is twofold - one, you increase powerhandling of the car's charging system, and two, by spending less, you're (while staying at approximately the same quality level) using less power.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2004
    I would take that 1500 bucks and basically get 2 JL 12w3v2d4 that would pount and power it off a jl 500/1 if what your lookin for is bass and power it up with some monster cable and nice set of rcas and you would be set not too mention that would only take about 1100 dollars you still got 400 for some interior speakers and it would blow you away
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited May 2004
    if you're looking for pure spl, try treo engineering. i'm not sure how much they cost, but they're worth a look (i think cody sez they have the world spl record right now).

    i like the interior speakers idea too, make it sound balanced. assuming you don't already have some.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2004
    im not sure if they hold it right now, but i think they at least used to...
    i wouldnt think you should use them in your daily driver though, i think theyre meant for competition only
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2004
    this amp
    $250
    this sub
    $430
    put it in a sealed 3ft^3 box
    its not going to put a huge draw on your electrical system at all
    and it WILL get loud
    its only 600 watts--but youll be surprised what 600 watts can do in the right box with the right sub
    $680 total
    get 2 of the same amps i listed
    and get a set of mm6 components and run it off that amp
    so thats another $250 for the amp and $300 for the components
    (assuming you have 6.5" speakers in the front)
    since its a hatchback, i really dont know what size speakers you have in the back, do you know?
    my suggestion is to replace them with some DB or momo coaxials and run them off the deck
    so like $1400
    plus wiring
    you can get power wire insanely cheap from www.knukonceptz.com
    just get 1/0awg power wire from the battery and run it to where youre going to mount your amps, get a FUSED distribution block with a single 1/0awg in and dual 4awg out
    run 4awg from the distro block to your amps
    i promise you, that setup will blow you away and you will not have to upgrade your alternator or anything like that, if you have a really small battery, you can pick up a 900CCA Engergizer for like $90
    best investment i ever made towards my electrical system
    later this year im going to get a dual battery set up, but you will not need to--but i guarantee you it will be a screaming system
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • pHilLyBluNt
    pHilLyBluNt Posts: 13
    edited May 2004
    Yeah i already have some aftermarket speakers. i have 5 x 7's in both the front and in the back. Theyre the Eclipse SE8373
    http://www.eclipse-web.com/index_speaker.html
    I mean they're nothing spectacular, or anything. Right now i have them running off my HU which is a Eclipse CD5444
    http://www.eclipse-web.com/index_cd.html
    So ill prolly end up using my eclipse amp that i have now to power my speakers.