Monitor 10s?

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  • bullet150
    bullet150 Posts: 40
    @pkquat, thank you for the reply and the recommendations and thanks to everyone on the fourm for being a kind and friendly community to a newcomer like myself.
    2ch setup: Polk monitor 10s peerless tweeters, RTA 11T, Technics SA-828, Technics SL-1800MKll
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  • bullet150
    bullet150 Posts: 40
    Anyone got recommendations on good speaker stands for the monitor 10s?
    2ch setup: Polk monitor 10s peerless tweeters, RTA 11T, Technics SA-828, Technics SL-1800MKll
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,791
    bullet150 wrote: »
    Anyone got recommendations on good speaker stands for the monitor 10s?

    Well... I like the original Polkstands (FWIW), but the later, taller ones might actually improve the midbass tubbiness that I (at least) feel that the 10s manifest :/


    9606201717_d3fb6c6688.jpgearlypolkfamilyportrait by Mark Hardy, on Flickr



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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    I made stands that incorporate vibration isolation elements and raise the tweeters of my 7B's about 44" off the floor for a more realistic soundstage presentation for near field listening (small room). You could do something similar for your 10's. Probably a good nickname for this setup would be the Marriage Buster. I've taken plenty of flack from my lady friend who doesn't even live with me LOL.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    bullet150 wrote: »
    Anyone got recommendations on good speaker stands for the monitor 10s?

    If you are handy working with wood, the attached plans may be of interest. Others have fashioned stands for their 10's and 7's and you may be able to find some more info by searching the forum.
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  • bullet150
    bullet150 Posts: 40
    Hi all. Getting ready to start the planning and ordering process for the crossover rebuild of my 10s. I'm assuming the schematic I need is the m10 original but wanted to double check. Also I know as mentioned earlier some had suggested potentially removing the woofers. Would it be worth the risk/reward for removing the woofers to put either jb weld or equal on the magnets and upgrade to hurricane nuts? Also with very basic soldering knowledge (took a few classes in high school that dealt with that) and having an decent iron that I picked up at a local radio parts store (the guy said you wont find anything this good at a radio shack then proceeded to remember they all went out of business around here) what would be my recommended course of action. Any reply is greatly appreciated and sorry for reviving my dead post
    2ch setup: Polk monitor 10s peerless tweeters, RTA 11T, Technics SA-828, Technics SL-1800MKll
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  • bullet150
    bullet150 Posts: 40
    Also I just recently ran into Larry's rings. I know nothing about them other than it is said they are the stuff of legends and a must do besides crossover rebuild. Is this something I should consider doing on my 10s and if so what info do I need for that?
    2ch setup: Polk monitor 10s peerless tweeters, RTA 11T, Technics SA-828, Technics SL-1800MKll
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    I haven't had the pleasure of trying them and I believe that the member that was making them is out of stock with no re-stock planned (?). The idea is that, being a machine thread like the Hurricane Nuts, you get a very secure attachment of the speaker frame to the front of the baffle and I think probably the main feature is that the ring assy on the inside of the baffle probably helps to stiffen the baffle and may reduce resonance a bit.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,459
    edited February 2020
    I think you were given some great advice previously in the thread. You should carefully do the push test on the midbass drivers to make sure there is no rubbing sounds of the voice coils against the magnet or pole piece. You will feel/hear it if it is a problem.

    Regarding any possible crossover mods, you need to remove one of the crossovers from the cabinet and trace the circuit and components and compare against that "original" model 10 schematic to make sure it is the same as yours. Inductors can't be checked without an LCR meter, except you can measure the DCR with an ohmeter and you can check the gauge with a dial caliper. I do not think there is any need for a compensation resistor should you remove the fuses. Wouldn't make sense since the fuses measure 0.0 Ohms DCR.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,542
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I haven't had the pleasure of trying them and I believe that the member that was making them is out of stock with no re-stock planned (?). The idea is that, being a machine thread like the Hurricane Nuts, you get a very secure attachment of the speaker frame to the front of the baffle and I think probably the main feature is that the ring assy on the inside of the baffle probably helps to stiffen the baffle and may reduce resonance a bit.

    It doesn't stiffen the baffle, it clamps the basket to the baffle in a way that wood screws can't. One can obtain basically the same results with hurricane nuts.
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