DVD player output mod, help needed

I have a Denon DVD-2800 I want to add a balanced output stage to with a separate switched power supply. I already know where to attach the extra power supply to have it switch on and off with the player.

I'm looking at simple unbalanced/balanced output boards on eBay that have power input and signal inputs on them. No problem, Those are easy to understand. What's more difficult to get is how to use a supply with these boards. Would I use an actual power supply or just a transformer? I know input and output voltage is not high at all so I don't think I need a regulator. And using the players supply would be too easy. His doesn't have to amount to anything really fancy because I'm not spending much on it.

If you're wondering why I want to do this to the player is because I hate seeing all the extra space in there go to waste and i want a cool project to do:)
Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.

Comments

  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    The simplest way to derive a balanced output would be by adding an op-amp configured as a unity gain invertor buffer. You would just need one op amp per channel, preferably the same type as the one's in the analog output section. You could power them from the same power supply. There is a better way but it is somewhat more involved.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    edited August 11
    Ok, what is the more involved way?
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    A complete redo of the analog stage following the dac chip's.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,973
    Well That player had all kinds of chroma bug problems from the start. That is why there is a 2800II and that one didn't last long either as the 2900 came out on it's heels. I sure wouldn't dump much money into it IMHO. Why not look for a player that already has that section?
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    FTGV wrote: »
    A complete redo of the analog stage following the dac chip's.

    Lol ew
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Well That player had all kinds of chroma bug problems from the start. That is why there is a 2800II and that one didn't last long either as the 2900 came out on it's heels. I sure wouldn't dump much money into it IMHO. Why not look for a player that already has that section?

    I wasn’t planning on spending much more than $30 or so. I know about the chroma issues but the player works and I don’t really want to get another one. The only way I see this one going is though the garbage or a thrift store.


    So using something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-DRV134PA-dual-channel-single-ended-balance-board/222441370583?_trksid=p2504926.m5232.l9681 hooked to the players supply and signal output isn’t really an option?
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »


    So using something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-DRV134PA-dual-channel-single-ended-balance-board/222441370583?_trksid=p2504926.m5232.l9681 hooked to the players supply and signal output isn’t really an option?
    You should be able get that to do what you want. It's more complex then need be but should work.

  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    Haha I’ll try it. I may even try one of the others that don’t have the plugs on them already. Then maybe try the supply thing later on
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    That board already has a full power supply minus the transformer. You simply need to feed it an appropriate AC voltage. Powering it from transformer powering the analog section should be doable. Or feed it an unregulated DC from the analog supply.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    FTGV wrote: »
    That board already has a full power supply minus the transformer. You simply need to feed it an appropriate AC voltage. Powering it from transformer powering the analog section should be doable. Or feed it an unregulated DC from the analog supply.

    Oh cool that’s what I was hoping you’d say to begin with:-) since I could use the players supply I see four wires going into the analog board, which should I use? When using my multi meter there are three wires with voltage but one is ever changing and the other two are something like 6 and 8v and then there’s ground, are those the ones I connect to this board?

    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    You need either two wires with 12-18 volts AC or plus and minus DC >15volts or so.
    If not then you are out of luck. The meter is likely fluctuating because your measuring AC with the meter set to measure DC. I will try to find a schematic later this evening.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    That’s where I get lost:( my meter only has a dial for volts, not either ac or dc so that sucks. I haven’t attempted this project yet because I did t want to do it and fry my preamp or something lol

    Man everything you could help me with on this I am extremely appreciative!
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 23,650
    edited August 12
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    That’s where I get lost:( my meter only has a dial for volts, not either ac or dc so that sucks. I haven’t attempted this project yet because I did t want to do it and fry my preamp or something lol

    Man everything you could help me with on this I am extremely appreciative!

    Guarantee that there's a selection for AC vs. DC voltage. B)
    OK, I'd be very, very surprised if not.

    Show us a photo or give us a mfgr name & model number. :)

    Sometimes the AC vs. DC are represented graphically, thus.

    45kvghf3xt11.png
    (random. borrowed image :) )

    AC voltage(V) and, on this meter, current (A) is indicated by the "tilde" (squiggle), ~

    DC is indicated by the solid line over the dashed line.

    :|

    We're here for ya, buddy!


    edit: OK, it looks like some meters nowadays may auto-detect AC vs. DC :p Who knew?!?
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,654
    Ok it looks like there is + and - 12 volts DC feeding the analog section. Assuming your using the PC board you linked to,this is a bit too low of voltage to allow the regulators on the balanced board to operate correctly. I would remove the two 12 volt regulators on the new balanced board. (the black 3 pin transistor looking things.) Then you would need to feed the regulated voltages from the analog output board or from the power supply board to your new board. There should be an easy access point somewhere.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    gqda6hcumpmh.jpeg

    Here’s the mere I have. I have another one that takes a 9v but not sure if it works, it’s old.

    Sounds simple enough and again I really appreciate you helping me out, I hate to seem lazy too, I think I just needed pointing in the right direction I.e away from the service manual 😂
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 10,664
    Put it on “A” then pushing the range button should toggle you between AC/dc

    Should see a symbol change on screen

    Also, when was the last time you changed the battery

    Low batteries will give you false readings
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,267
    I’ll do just that, I don’t think I’ve ever done it before and can’t recall if I had a instruction book.

    Oh no they’re old lol you can turn it on and it’ll read an almost constant change in bolts without putting it to anything haha
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!