Best center to go with S60's?

Options
2»

Answers

  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    Options
    Wow, you are going to have a chance to audition the Polks before you buy, great, that will give you a better idea of how they sound. just be aware that they probably won't be set up optimally but they are fantastic speakers.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    Options
    Give the HTS a try then. That is a lot of coin for a house even in CND.

    If you get the Denon, Audyssey will set the sub volume for your listening position or where ever you set the mic up at. In a room as big as your it will push the limits of the subs. I'd start off with the subs close to the S60's and go from there. Get the front stage set and enjoy a good flick.

    As for a single sub not being able to fill your room. I have my nice 5000sqf warehouse at work. I had my VTF3 shipped to the office. I unboxed it put it on a cart and gave it a go. I got the AVR to -15db and the cube farm was complaining of shaking. The old Sony 12" never even came close.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited May 2019
    Options
    dkhc wrote: »
    -Budget is a consideration otherwise I'd be looking at a pair of ultra 16's. Now, I do own a millwork shop and could easily build and finish (in house spraybooth) a box but have no idea about components.

    -Honestly, I would feel that anything below a pair of pb3000's or vtf15hmk2's will end up being a compromise anyway so I'd rather save the dough.

    -Any thoughts of adding a single big boy down the road and and cross it over low (maybe ~30-40 hz) to handle the gravy that I may be blissfully missing with the hts's?
    I think the above are reasons to pause on the HTS. It seems to review well and seems like a nice option at $250 range however you have DIY skills. Many in the DIY community have spoken of their journey from subs like the Polk then on to the ID brands like SVS, HSU, then on to DIY. Many say after going DIY they will never go back.

    In Canada, you can get Dayton Audio. The 12' Ultimax UM12-22 works in a 5.58 cu ft ported enclosure tuned to 17Hz

    The drivers costs $238.24 each CAD at Solen
    https://solen.ca/products/speakers/home-speakers/subwoofers/um12-22/

    The 15" is $291.36 but you needs a much larger enclosure
    https://solen.ca/products/speakers/home-speakers/subwoofers/um15-22/

    Parts express ships to Canada as well:
    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512

    Also, there are DIY plans over on AVS Forum for the slot ported Marty Sub range of designs - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

    The MicroCube uses the Dayton Audio 390ho driver https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1570002-living-room-micro-cube.html
    $285.52 - https://solen.ca/products/speakers/home-speakers/subwoofers/rss390ho-4/

    For amps, the Beringer NX3000 is a good value: https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nx3000-ultra-lightweight-class-d-3000w-power-amplifier--248-7012

    Even if you can only afford a single ported 15"-18" it will crush the Polk options and can compete and even surpass some of the SVS, HSU offerings for less money. Many will prefer a big bad single sub over two less capable options. Get out there and listen to what the DIY crowd is doing and saying about their projects. Myself, I just went from a single DIY Stereo Integrity HT15 to two HT15 or two Dayton UM15-22 subs. We'll see!

    Slot ported Ultimax UM12-22
    maxresdefault.jpg

    Ported MartyCube UM15-22
    95314d1454485824t-15-martycube-2015-06-16-18.42.13.jpg

    Sealed UM15-22
    ?pic_id=466898.jpg

    Sealed UM18-22
    vDIRde2.jpg

    Ported MartyCube UM18-22
    C8977DB529811C47BE409DA668E1EBE7.app1_1549172385018_L1800.jpeg
    C8977DB529811C47BE409DA668E1EBE7.app1_1549172406626_L1800.jpeg

    With your shop skills and the large space, there are many possibilities even within a $700-$1000 CAD budget.
    Post edited by WLDock on
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited May 2019
    Options
    Post edited by WLDock on
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • dkhc
    dkhc Posts: 15
    Options
    Thanks @WLDock for the diy info and links. Definitely something I'm considering. Pretty slammed at work right now for a sub build so I'll likely still pick up at least a single hts12 (if it auditions well) then take my time and build the big boy to get those lowest frequencies.

    I think I'd prefer the diy route over buying a $1000+ ID sub as long as it doesn't compromise sound quality. Are there any issues mixing subs? Like having a pair of hts12's with a ported UM18-22? I'm assuming timbre matching isn't a concern but is there anything else that could mess with the mix?
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    Options
    The DIY are not bad, few I've heard were good on movies and not so much on music.

    There was this guy who made custom sub using JL Audio car woofers. They were good but way over priced.

    Mixing subs is hit an miss. Best to always have the same subs when going dual or more.

    Get the HTS (1 or 2) try it, rock them and you might like it.

    I still say @ $500 one VTF2 would be a lot better. In the end it's your money.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    Options
    dkhc wrote: »
    I think I'd prefer the diy route over buying a $1000+ ID sub as long as it doesn't compromise sound quality.
    Many DIY drivers produce low distortion and high output. Box tuning and room integration are just as important depending on what final result you are after.

    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2