Help!Possible issues with parasound a23?

Might be something wrong not sure. I have a new to me a23 and I’ve read that they run warm. Mine, when plugged in with nothing connected to it runs really warm on the topside where the heat sinks are located on each side but not in the center. On the bottom side underneath the heat sinks I would say pretty hot. Is this normal? Also when powered off the on/off button glows red not blue and when powered on it glows a brighter red never turning blue after 5 seconds like the Manuel says. Both channel lights glow blue indicating that they are working properly and the overheat light is not on. Any thoughts? I don’t have a way to test it right now with speakers and preamp to put a load on it.

Comments

  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,050
    edited April 25
    mthebull wrote: »
    Any thoughts? I don’t have a way to test it right now with speakers and preamp to put a load on it.

    I would suggest running it in a normal environment. Then see what happens.

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,345
    Nothing connected? No speakers?
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    kharp1 wrote: »
    Nothing connected? No speakers?

    Nothing connected
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    BlueFox wrote: »
    mthebull wrote: »
    Any thoughts? I don’t have a way to test it right now with speakers and preamp to put a load on it.

    I would suggest running it in a normal environment. Then see what happens.
    Unfortunately I can’t right now, I just didn’t think it was normal to get that warm/hot without a load and the red light behind the power button making me think it was in circuit protection or something like that. This is all new to me, my first amp so don’t know what the norm should be
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,050
    Well, running your amp in a unrealistic manner isn’t the best way to evaluate it.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Well, running your amp in a unrealistic manner isn’t the best way to evaluate it.

    Unrealistic meaning plugging it into the wall and hitting the power button?
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,345
    I've never supported turning an amp on without speakers connected.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,796
    How much space do you have above the amp? After John Curl gave me advice on biasing my HCA-1000A higher, it would get hot in my stereo cabinet with about 2 inches of space above the amp. I moved it out of the cabinet (nothing above) and it runs slightly warm.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade), Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7; Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    skrol wrote: »
    How much space do you have above the amp? After John Curl gave me advice on biasing my HCA-1000A higher, it would get hot in my stereo cabinet with about 2 inches of space above the amp. I moved it out of the cabinet (nothing above) and it runs slightly warm.

    It’s sitting on a desk in the open
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    kharp1 wrote: »
    I've never supported turning an amp on without speakers connected.


    I didn’t know it was bad to do this. What’s the reason? I really don’t know
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,050
    mthebull wrote: »
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Well, running your amp in a unrealistic manner isn’t the best way to evaluate it.

    Unrealistic meaning plugging it into the wall and hitting the power button?

    Yes, if there is no input or output. You need to ask the manufacturer if your test results are valid.

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,138
    Agree with Bud. Reach out to Parasound, they're a friendly bunch.
    "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • gyosagyosa Posts: 227
    I have an A21....
    I've never used it like you did , but I would think the red light is abnormal ....
    I'd call parasound .... Richard is a great guy to talk to

    Bk
    Parasound A21 , Yamaha wxc-50, PS Audio 4.6 , Polk SDA 1c’s , Sony 42” - bedroom

    B&K EX-442 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Boston Acoustic voyager 7’s - pool

    PS Audio Stellar S300 ,Yamaha wxc-50 , Salk Supercharged Songtowers
    Sony XBR-A8F 65” OLED - den

    Onkyo TX-nr609 , Polk atrium 7 , Boston acoustic sound ware (4) , Boston acoustic sub , B&W center , Sharp 65” TV - patio
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    Will
    gyosa wrote: »
    I have an A21....
    I've never used it like you did , but I would think the red light is abnormal ....
    I'd call parasound .... Richard is a great guy to talk to

    Bk
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Agree with Bud. Reach out to Parasound, they're a friendly bunch.
    Will do in the am, thanks for the replies.
  • rburgess714rburgess714 Posts: 449
    There support outstanding.
    [email protected]
    Living Room
    Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Parasound P5, Parasound A23, Yamaha BD-S681, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, Polk S60, Polk S30, Samsung 60" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,690
    Never power up a tube amp without a load (speakers) connected. It doesn't matter with solid state amps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    F1nut wrote: »
    Never power up a tube amp without a load (speakers) connected. It doesn't matter with solid state amps.

    That’s what I was thinking with solid state, I think I may have an issue with the amp since it’s glowing red behind the power button instead of blue. Found a couple of old posts that confirm this. Gonna call parasound tomarrow to see what they say.
  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 2,472
    It's normal for the red LED to come on for a few seconds but then it should turn blue when the circuits are allowed to go active. Consider it like a safety checker. The indicator staying red probably means there is an internal issue that should be fixed. The heatsinks in the A23 are on the outboard sides inside the cabinet. The transformer is in the center and produces no heat. It's not normal for an A23 to run hot unless it has been driving a heavy load.

    My guess is there is a defect in the auto-manual turn on/off circuit. You could flip that switch on the back to its manual (middle position) and see if that resolves the issue temporarily. The LED should turn blue.

    Good call on checking with Parasound. They are very responsive.
    1. Polk LSiM707, 704C, 703; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A23 amp; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Sonic Frontiers Line 3 Preamp; Classe Model 25 amp; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Oppo 105D; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio Power Director; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Parasound JC2BP and A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; MIT S3 cables
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 5,633
    @mthebull
    I must ask, why do you have an amp and no speakers?
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    afterburnt wrote: »
    @mthebull
    I must ask, why do you have an amp and no speakers?

    I have Polk 2.3tl’s but no interconnect and have them apart to start the upgrade process(crossovers, dynamat, hurricane nuts, etc)
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 5,633
    @mthebull oh ok, I was starting to think that you were some kind of degenerate freak. I never turn my A31 off so I am not sure how the lights behave but I do think you are having some kind of malfunction.
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 2,423
    Everybody who buys used gear should own a multi-meter & a cheap pair of test speakers. Whenever I bring home an amp, assuming it's solid state, the first thing I do is measure the DC offset, then it gets connected to the test speakers and played for a couple hours before connecting to anything else. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, mine are a pair of RatShack Minumus 7's. Time to hit up craigslist.
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    afterburnt wrote: »
    @mthebull oh ok, I was starting to think that you were some kind of degenerate freak. I never turn my A31 off so I am not sure how the lights behave but I do think you are having some kind of malfunction.

    Spoke with parasound , tech said it could be as simple as blue led burnt out, or internal issues. I’m gonna find a cheap speaker so I can test and see if I get sound.
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    DaveHo wrote: »
    Everybody who buys used gear should own a multi-meter & a cheap pair of test speakers. Whenever I bring home an amp, assuming it's solid state, the first thing I do is measure the DC offset, then it gets connected to the test speakers and played for a couple hours before connecting to anything else. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, mine are a pair of RatShack Minumus 7's. Time to hit up craigslist.

    Good advice, I’m learning!
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 5,633
    mthebull wrote: »
    afterburnt wrote: »
    @mthebull oh ok, I was starting to think that you were some kind of degenerate freak. I never turn my A31 off so I am not sure how the lights behave but I do think you are having some kind of malfunction.

    Spoke with parasound , tech said it could be as simple as blue led burnt out, or internal issues. I’m gonna find a cheap speaker so I can test and see if I get sound.

    One should always have a bunch of junk speakers around. I know I do.
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    I guess sometimes you just get complacent, I’ve never had an issue with buying used. This may be the first :(
  • gyosagyosa Posts: 227
    edited April 26
    When I turn on my a21 it goes red for a second or two then straight to blue ....
    But , it is on a trigger, so always in standby...
    Bk
    Parasound A21 , Yamaha wxc-50, PS Audio 4.6 , Polk SDA 1c’s , Sony 42” - bedroom

    B&K EX-442 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Boston Acoustic voyager 7’s - pool

    PS Audio Stellar S300 ,Yamaha wxc-50 , Salk Supercharged Songtowers
    Sony XBR-A8F 65” OLED - den

    Onkyo TX-nr609 , Polk atrium 7 , Boston acoustic sound ware (4) , Boston acoustic sub , B&W center , Sharp 65” TV - patio
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 5,082
    afterburnt wrote: »
    @mthebull
    I must ask, why do you have an amp and no speakers?

    His speakers were so good, they just disappeared in his room...
  • mthebullmthebull Posts: 36
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    afterburnt wrote: »
    @mthebull
    I must ask, why do you have an amp and no speakers?

    His speakers were so good, they just disappeared in his room...
    Ok... yeah they are soooo good B)
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