banana plugs on Atrium speakers
Hello,
My family has a remote cottage with a pair of Bose indoor/outdoor speakers that have been damaged by vandals. (If you get the speakers out, you are supposed to put them away, so stuff like this doesn't happen...).
I was considering replacing the Bose speakers with Polk Atrium 6 speakers.
The Atrium 6's get good reviews, I particularly noted that they get good marks for a friendly bracket design.
We use dual banana plugs to make plugging and unplugging as smooth as possible.
One reviewer noted that he was not able to use a banana plug on his Atrium 6.
I would appreciate any input I can get on this, as in my application, the banana plug is going to be close to a deal-breaker.
If banana plugs can not be inserted in the speakers, I suppose I can make very short 12 gauge jumpers with spades on the speaker end and female bananas other, but it goes against my grain to add an unnecessary connection in a signal path.
Best Regards,
Bil
My family has a remote cottage with a pair of Bose indoor/outdoor speakers that have been damaged by vandals. (If you get the speakers out, you are supposed to put them away, so stuff like this doesn't happen...).
I was considering replacing the Bose speakers with Polk Atrium 6 speakers.
The Atrium 6's get good reviews, I particularly noted that they get good marks for a friendly bracket design.
We use dual banana plugs to make plugging and unplugging as smooth as possible.
One reviewer noted that he was not able to use a banana plug on his Atrium 6.
I would appreciate any input I can get on this, as in my application, the banana plug is going to be close to a deal-breaker.
If banana plugs can not be inserted in the speakers, I suppose I can make very short 12 gauge jumpers with spades on the speaker end and female bananas other, but it goes against my grain to add an unnecessary connection in a signal path.
Best Regards,
Bil
Comments
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Hey welcome to CP! Looks like they can accept bananas or spade terminals. May be a tight fit, depending on the orientation to the mounting bracket for sure. In that case, you should be able to use a angled spade to banana adapter. Have fun!
Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
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Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
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Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
They do have a five way binding post. You will have to remove the plastic plug.
I have three atrium 8s on my patio with banana plugs.Main room- RTiA9 x4, CSiA6, in ceiling Atmos RT-70 x4, SVS PC 4000 x2, Marantz 8805A, OPPO 203, Emotiva DR3 G3, Emotiva XPA-2 G3, Emotiva XPA-5 G3, Emotiva X300, Sony 75" 940E, Panasonic Plasma VT50, PS Audio Power Port X2, PS Audio AC-5 x8, AQ Rocket 33 Biwire speaker cables, AQ King Cobra XLR IC, Furman PFi20 W/Cullen cable, SoildSteel S4-4 rack, Gik room treatments
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Patio- SDI Atrium8 x3, Emotiva A-100 amps x3 -
Hey welcome to CP! Looks like they can accept bananas or spade terminals. May be a tight fit, depending on the orientation to the mounting bracket for sure. In that case, you should be able to use a angled spade to banana adapter. Have fun!
I think what he is saying is the terminals are too close together for the dual banana plugs they already have. -
Ah! I got it now! I think! Thanks Ivan!
Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Bingo
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Jumpers may be the way to go. Male banana or spade on one end, female banana on the other. Hard to find, IIRC.
Or re-terminate the dual bananas. Either way Bill @bsheckler have fun! Let us know the outcome! Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
I found something that may work. Not audiophile grade, but heck these are outdoor speakers!
Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Hello,
One reviewer noted that he was not able to use a banana plug on his Atrium 6.
/quote]
I think this comment originates from the fact that Polk, like many manufacturers, is forced by Euro standards to put plugs in the end of banana jacks to prevent insertion of the standard Euro A/C plug. Just pop the plastic insert out & you're golden. -
Yeah ,
Make sure you remove that plug under the power port cover if they won’t be exposed to direct rain...
I have a couple pairs of the atrium 7’s , I think they are ....
Also have a pair of now discontinued Boston acoustic voyager 7/70’s ...
Personally I think they sound better ... larger woofer and sealed design.
You can still find them if you google long enough....
Also consider the B&W AM-1 .....
That’s what I would buy next if I needed a new pair of outdoor speakers....
Bk
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Thank You for the welcome and the input folks.
If pole-to-pole spacing is an issue, I can change to single bananas, but they are probably std. spacing.
I was mostly concerned about space directly across from the terminal openings, as in there was enough space to allow a banana plug to be inserted straight.
The speakers get deployed (and ideally stowed) about 20 times a year, so ease of connection counts more than normal.
Best Regards,
Bil -
The connections are angled out slightly. I installed some Atrium 4's for a family member & had no issue using banana plugs.
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The Polk Audio Atrium 8SDI sounds great. I got two and set them up as a stereo pair outdoors in my yard. They ship w/ the the plastic cover on top of the terminals. Just pop off the little plastic cap and the banana plugs work great. Thank you for pointing that out, bsheckler !!!
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@bsheckler, see above for thanks. :-)
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Some people don't know the banana plug binding posts have removable plugs in them.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Hi PA forum. I just bought some Atrium 6s and after reading this and a few other forums/websites I still don't understand the best practice for connecting cable to these speakers. Banana plugs would be the most convenient, but what prevents that or any other method from corroding over time due to weather? I don't want to use a sealant since I'll be mounting and unmounting the speakers often. If all of the copper wire is inserted into the banana plug and the plug is gold plated, is that enough to prevent corrosion? Maybe there's just something fundamental I don't understand about outdoor speakers. Thanks in advance.
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If you're using cheap banana plugs where the wire is inserted then clamped down with a screw use adhesive lined heatshrink to seal banana plug and wire. If you're using higher quality banana plugs where you solder the connection corrosion shouldn't be an issue. However, using the adhesive lined heatshrink is still a good idea.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If you're using cheap banana plugs where the wire is inserted then clamped down with a screw use adhesive lined heatshrink to seal banana plug and wire. If you're using higher quality banana plugs where you solder the connection corrosion shouldn't be an issue. However, using the adhesive lined heatshrink is still a good idea.
Ah, so the banana plug itself isn't a problem and it's just the leak point where the cable is inserted into the back of the plug that I should be worried about?
I usually use Mediabridge plugs, which don't require soldering but seem better then the cheapo ones with the perpendicular screw. I can still do a heatshrink thing like you mentioned. -
Banana plugs are not the best for making a connection. Bare wire, stripped and cleaned, wrapped counter clockwise around speaker connectors is better.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
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captainquestions wrote: »If you're using cheap banana plugs where the wire is inserted then clamped down with a screw use adhesive lined heatshrink to seal banana plug and wire. If you're using higher quality banana plugs where you solder the connection corrosion shouldn't be an issue. However, using the adhesive lined heatshrink is still a good idea.
Ah, so the banana plug itself isn't a problem and it's just the leak point where the cable is inserted into the back of the plug that I should be worried about?
I usually use Mediabridge plugs, which don't require soldering but seem better then the cheapo ones with the perpendicular screw. I can still do a heatshrink thing like you mentioned.
I prefer these. They have a large solid pin through the middle that the blades can rotate around on. The tip with the mass of the pin bottoms out in the binding post resulting in maximum contact. The connection is soldered.
I strongly disagree that bare wire is better. In fact, I'd say it's the least desirable.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What brand are those plugs? I can't tell from the photo.captainquestions wrote: »If you're using cheap banana plugs where the wire is inserted then clamped down with a screw use adhesive lined heatshrink to seal banana plug and wire. If you're using higher quality banana plugs where you solder the connection corrosion shouldn't be an issue. However, using the adhesive lined heatshrink is still a good idea.
Ah, so the banana plug itself isn't a problem and it's just the leak point where the cable is inserted into the back of the plug that I should be worried about?
I usually use Mediabridge plugs, which don't require soldering but seem better then the cheapo ones with the perpendicular screw. I can still do a heatshrink thing like you mentioned.
I prefer these. They have a large solid pin through the middle that the blades can rotate around on. The tip with the mass of the pin bottoms out in the binding post resulting in maximum contact. The connection is soldered.
I strongly disagree that bare wire is better. In fact, I'd say it's the least desirable.
