Can Yamaha R-N803 drive rti a-9

I plan to buy Yamaha R-N803 with RTI a9 which requires a lot of power. I don't know whether N803 has enough power to drive RTI a9.
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Comments

  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,523
    Yes. It's got 100 watts per channel minimum output capability as a stereo receiver. It won't get the best out the big speakers but it will work. The next smaller size of RTi-A speakers would be a better choice. Or the Signature 60 would be even better. Just be careful with the volume and tone controls. Pushed too much with the volume too high and the receiver may clip and damage the speakers because of being over stressed. As it is, Yamaha rates the amp as being 4 ohm stable so it has a quality high current amp in it. But it does have its output limits.
  • @Emlyn are you suggesting the rti a7? If I still want to get the rti a9, is there any decent receiver/amplifier that would have enough power to drive a9? My budget is less than 1k for amplifier.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    For music the s60s are probably the better choice, and easier to drive.

    It’s going to be hard to find an integrated or separate pre and amp solution that will drive the 9s with that budget unless you can go used...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • I don't mind to go used! However, I'm newbie and I don't know where I can find good used integrated/pre & power. I'm living in Austin, TX. I haven't had a chance to test s60 and can't find any near by store to audition it. does s60 sound better than rti a7?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    I never preferred the rti series for music. Lots of folks here really like their s60s.

    In Austin you can get lots of good used deals, especially if you’re willing to drive a bit. A 200wpc amp from B&K, parasound, rotel, or others would work with a similar pre (but doesn’t need to be the same brand).
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,523
    If it were me, I'd go for a pair of S60s. They are a much newer design that are good at everything. The RTiA series is great for home theater because of their inherent brightness and power handling capability. I couldn't tolerate them for music long though. Getting an integrated amp implies the speakers would be primarily used for two channel music? Or also for two channel home theater? The Yamaha amp will also send a signal to a subwoofer.
  • I'd say 85% is music and 15% is movie.
  • rooftop59 wrote: »
    I never preferred the rti series for music. Lots of folks here really like their s60s.

    In Austin you can get lots of good used deals, especially if you’re willing to drive a bit. A 200wpc amp from B&K, parasound, rotel, or others would work with a similar pre (but doesn’t need to be the same brand).

    is there any online site to shop used amplifier?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    travistrle wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    I never preferred the rti series for music. Lots of folks here really like their s60s.

    In Austin you can get lots of good used deals, especially if you’re willing to drive a bit. A 200wpc amp from B&K, parasound, rotel, or others would work with a similar pre (but doesn’t need to be the same brand).

    is there any online site to shop used amplifier?

    eBay - PayPal and eBay both offer buyer protection
    Audiogon - again, Buy with PayPal
    USA audiomart

    There are others, but those are probably the biggest.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rburgess714
    rburgess714 Posts: 616
    If you
    travistrle wrote: »
    I'd say 85% is music and 15% is movie.

    The 60s will be much better for music and perform really well with movies. I had the A7s and sent them back too bright for my ears for music. The RTi series is great for home theater but the Signature series is better for both. I have had 60s for a couple years and love them. They are also easier to drive.

    As far as the Yamaha I would look at the Aventage Series. Also having preouts will give you the ability to add an external amp down the road which will really make the 60s sing.
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • If you
    travistrle wrote: »
    I'd say 85% is music and 15% is movie.

    The 60s will be much better for music and perform really well with movies. I had the A7s and sent them back too bright for my ears for music. The RTi series is great for home theater but the Signature series is better for both. I have had 60s for a couple years and love them. They are also easier to drive.

    As far as the Yamaha I would look at the Aventage Series. Also having preouts will give you the ability to add an external amp down the road which will really make the 60s sing.

    Thanks @rburgess714 ! I'm considering the yamaha n803 which is a stereo receiver. I'd like to have the ability to control bass, treble and loudness.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,643
    I'd like to have the ability to control bass, treble and loudness.

    Turn in your audiophile card and hang your head in shame.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    I'd like to have the ability to control bass, treble and loudness.

    Turn in your audiophile card and hang your head in shame.

    Sorry if I ask stupid question, but do you mean that we don't need those features ?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,547
    edited April 2019
    travistrle wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    I'd like to have the ability to control bass, treble and loudness.

    Turn in your audiophile card and hang your head in shame.

    Sorry if I ask stupid question, but do you mean that we don't need those features ?

    Yes.
    I have not used tone controls in years/decades. I even have a switch on both my preamps to completely bypass the whole circuit.

    I'm not familiar with that yamaha product but in years past they had a pure direct switch which bypassed the whole tone control circuit. One feature i did like on my yamaha integrated amp was the variable loudness control. I feel it worked very well. Much better than those push button on/off loudness controls.
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,534
    If you feel the need to use tone controls, you have bad component synergy or sub-par equipment. A properly matched system will never need bass, treble, or loudness compensation.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,523
    The N803 has a "Pure Direct" button in addition to the tone controls. It also has an acoustic setup microphone, which can be very useful for a mid-fi system where an owner just wants a system that's easy to set up for 2.1 sound with a subwoofer blended into the system. That receiver isn't really intended for audiophile use, but does have a lot of convenience features. I'm pretty impressed with what Yamaha has put out for the price. Looks good too. I would tend not to use the tone controls myself. The YPAO setup is probably better.
  • rburgess714
    rburgess714 Posts: 616
    BTW welcome to the forum we can really help you spend your money. Going on 3 years in this hobby I still consider myself a noob. There are many members that have forgotten more than I will ever know about this hobby. As far as tone controls, I think the mindset behind not using them is to hear the music as it was recorded. Unfortunately recordings and gear vary in quality and tone controls can be used to temper them. With that said I rarely use them, it’s all about personal preference and enjoying the music. The NR 803 has pure direct mode as many manufacturers do. For the money you are looking to spend there are a lot of options and as I mentioned earlier the Signature series is easier to drive and better for music.
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,643
    DaveHo wrote: »
    If you feel the need to use tone controls, you have bad component synergy or sub-par equipment. A properly matched system will never need bass, treble, or loudness compensation.

    Nailed it!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BTW welcome to the forum we can really help you spend your money. Going on 3 years in this hobby I still consider myself a noob. There are many members that have forgotten more than I will ever know about this hobby. As far as tone controls, I think the mindset behind not using them is to hear the music as it was recorded. Unfortunately recordings and gear vary in quality and tone controls can be used to temper them. With that said I rarely use them, it’s all about personal preference and enjoying the music. The NR 803 has pure direct mode as many manufacturers do. For the money you are looking to spend there are a lot of options and as I mentioned earlier the Signature series is easier to drive and better for music.

    Thanks @rburgess714 .
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    DaveHo wrote: »
    If you feel the need to use tone controls, you have bad component synergy or sub-par equipment. A properly matched system will never need bass, treble, or loudness compensation.

    in general I completely agree, but I will say that one of the most difficult and expensive systems to put together is one that sounds as good at quiet volumes as it does at loud. So, for those of us with families, roommates, co-workers, etc., a good loudness function can be quite valuable.

    I don't expect everyone to agree of course, but I also don't that everyone will live the exact form of life that I do...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rooftop59 wrote: »
    DaveHo wrote: »
    If you feel the need to use tone controls, you have bad component synergy or sub-par equipment. A properly matched system will never need bass, treble, or loudness compensation.

    in general I completely agree, but I will say that one of the most difficult and expensive systems to put together is one that sounds as good at quiet volumes as it does at loud. So, for those of us with families, roommates, co-workers, etc., a good loudness function can be quite valuable.

    I don't expect everyone to agree of course, but I also don't that everyone will live the exact form of life that I do...

    Totally agree! I somehow prefer loundness control and sometime bass/treble although I may change it once or twice per year with my old system.
  • travistrle
    travistrle Posts: 19
    edited April 2019
    unfortunately, I had to return the n803. undoubtedly, it's a solid receiver; however, it's not able to play with certain format. My use case is I connect it with my 4k tv via optical. I don't know what amazon prime format is, but this receiver doesn't recognize any signal if I watch amazon prime, the same thing is happen when I watch certain movie from youtube.

    I'm researching a home theater receiver from accessories4less. I'm looking for Yamaha Receiver since it's a solid and reliable receiver, and customer service is quite good. I don't plan to upgrade my system to 5.1/7.2/9.2 that's the reason why I chose N803 before.

    Do you have any good experience with accessories4less and yamaha home theater receiver ?
  • Milito
    Milito Posts: 1,960
    I bought a RX-A2070 from them and have been very pleased with it.
    Yamaha RX-A2070, Musical Fidelity M6si integrated amp, Benchmark Dac1, Bluesound NODE 2i, Audiolab 6000CDT CD Transport, Parasound Zphono USB Phono Preamp, Fluance RT85, Ortofon 2M Bronze, Polk L600's, L400, L900's, RC80i's, SVS 3000 Micro, Audioquest Interconnects and Digital Cables, Nordost Silver Shadow Digital Cable, Cullen Gold and Crossover Series Power Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 12AWG OCC Speaker Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha Analog Interconnect Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 11 OCC Custom Power Cable, Signal Power Cable, Furman PL-8C 15 Power Conditioner, Sony 65" 900F, Sony UBP-X700, Fios, Apple TV 4K, Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables.
  • I wonder whether there will be a downgrade for music when moving from 2 stereo receiver to a A/V receiver?
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    travistrle wrote: »
    unfortunately, I had to return the n803. undoubtedly, it's a solid receiver; however, it's not able to play with certain format. My use case is I connect it with my 4k tv via optical. I don't know what amazon prime format is, but this receiver doesn't recognize any signal if I watch amazon prime, the same thing is happen when I watch certain movie from youtube.

    I'm researching a home theater receiver from accessories4less. I'm looking for Yamaha Receiver since it's a solid and reliable receiver, and customer service is quite good. I don't plan to upgrade my system to 5.1/7.2/9.2 that's the reason why I chose N803 before.

    Do you have any good experience with accessories4less and yamaha home theater receiver ?

    Sorry that you returned it, the solution is very simple. You have to set your TV to pass through only 2 channel PCM, not Dolby Digital 5.1, as many two channel receivers cannot handle a multi-channel track.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rooftop59 wrote: »
    Sorry that you returned it, the solution is very simple. You have to set your TV to pass through only 2 channel PCM, not Dolby Digital 5.1, as many two channel receivers cannot handle a multi-channel track.

    :neutral: I should do this before returned it. Just tried it and my tv doesn't remember what I selected after turn off the tv.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    travistrle wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Sorry that you returned it, the solution is very simple. You have to set your TV to pass through only 2 channel PCM, not Dolby Digital 5.1, as many two channel receivers cannot handle a multi-channel track.

    :neutral: I should do this before returned it. Just tried it and my tv doesn't remember what I selected after turn off the tv.

    Hmm...that’s strange. Surely there is a setting to save in your tv? This is going to be a problem with any or most two channel receivers...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • travistrle
    travistrle Posts: 19
    edited April 2019
    I end up buying the Marantz SR6013 from accessories4less. So far, I'm happy with it, love its mid and treble sound. Bass is nothing difference from Yamaha, but Marantz has a bigger sound stage to me. Since it's AV Receiver, it doesn't have any issue if I watch Amazon Prime or Youtube Movie. The only concern is it does produce a lot of heat, I turned on the ECO mode, it does seem reduce a bit.
  • Emlyn wrote: »
    Yes. It's got 100 watts per channel minimum output capability as a stereo receiver. It won't get the best out the big speakers but it will work. The next smaller size of RTi-A speakers would be a better choice. Or the Signature 60 would be even better. Just be careful with the volume and tone controls. Pushed too much with the volume too high and the receiver may clip and damage the speakers because of being over stressed. As it is, Yamaha rates the amp as being 4 ohm stable so it has a quality high current amp in it. But it does have its output limits.

    Oh, yes, if Yamaha's Stereo Receivers (from the old ones to this year of 2024) says 100 watts stereo receiver for each channel (in this case, stereo), and you see space to plug 4 speakers into 8 ohms, it's more than powerful to move 4 floorstanding speakers of 300 watts (into 8 ohms, the real power) each one of the 4 speakers, but only if the speakers are 8 ohms.

    If you have 2 floorstanding speakers of 6 ohms and 2 others of 8 ohms, just put more air-conditioning air or extra ventilation direct to the Yamaha Stereo Receiver -- it will be okay for 10 to 20 years, at least, but put your Yamaha Stereo Receiver into 8 ohms.

    "The first one to decide ohms is the Receiver, the second are the speakers." (a quote from a friend of my dad, Ph.D. in Physics and Electric Engineer, who worked for Nasa for 12 years...)

    If you have 4 floorstanding speakers of 4 ohms, even putting the Yamaha to 4 ohms to match the ohms, don't do that, because you can heat very badly your receiver, even the most power Receivers ever made, like Pioneer SX-1980, Sansui G-33000, Marantz 2600... will heat to death.

    Only use 2 floorstanding speakers of 4 ohms to any Receiver (even the floorstanding ones of 400 watts, 250 pounds each speaker...) , but you have to buy a very power amplifier (I recommend the Parasound amplifiers) to keep cool the amplifier of your receivers.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,643
    Oki doki
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk