Building a box...need help with material and design.

pOP
pOP Posts: 23
edited May 2004 in Custom Fabrication
Yo its me PoP_N_FresH,
My MM124's and C300.2's arrived today. And i must say...HOLY......they look sweet. But now i must install. My bro and i are going to make a custume box for my durango. I was wondering where i could find all my parts. I dont really want to order anything online considering shipping....and the time it takes. I can hardly wait to install, since these parts are just sitting on my floor in my room waiting to be heard. I was going o go grab some wood up at some houses there building by me, but if that aint good i know where to get some. But wires i dont know where to go. Would radio shack work? Umm also cloth for the out side, what is good material to use. Also, where could i find taht cap thing(i dont know what its calls) that holds the wires connecting the sub to amp. Also cocking, is it nessecary, optinal, or what? I got nail and drills all that. And also could you gusy recommend some cool designs. I got an idea of what i want to do, but i would like to see some cool options. PLease try and keep it simple. IM just a lil old 15 year old waiting to get his drivers lisence in about less than a week. My skills with wood are slightly limited, but i must say i am pritty good. Atleast thats what my woodshop teacher said in 8th grade. THx
----please excuse my grammatical errors. Something is wrongwith my comp when i try and backspace and type again, it always deletes letters as i go.
-=KirK=-
Post edited by pOP on

Comments

  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2004
    for wood, get 3/4" MDF or 3/4" Maple Birch Plywood
    the Maple is better, but more expensive
    wires as in speaker wire?
    if so, Radio Shack is fine if they carry 12gauge speaker wire
    to cover it, just pick up some carpet
    i think what youre talking about are terminals
    you can pick up those at radio shack as well--theyre called spring loaded cup terminals
    theyre not the best in the world, but its what i use
    another option is not having one, just drill a small hole into the box and silicone around it
    but if you ever want to take your box out, youre stuck, so thats why i use the old crappy spring loaded ones
    chaulking IS necessary
    BRACING IS necessary
    bracing is every important
    VERY
    build the box without the bracing, chaulk all the seams, let it set for a few hours, then put the bracing in
    as far cool designs, a posted something a while back that could give a custom look to your box
    search on the other forum(Car audio & elec.) for "cool box idea"--i think thats the name of the post, if not just look at the posts, it shouldnt be more than 3 pages back--if you cant find it, tell me and ill find you the link
    dont use nails
    use screws
    also get some thing called "liquid nails," its a wood glue, when youre putting the box together, glue the seams, then screw
    its also necessary to let the box air about for about 3-4 days to let all the fumes from the chaulking dissipate
    otherwise itll eat up your speaker
    if you put a good size fan at the opening, you can probably install it in 2 days with no problem
    as far as your computer messing up, about your direction arrows theres 6 keys, one of those keys is "insert"
    push that and it wont delete your letters
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • LittleCar_w/12s
    LittleCar_w/12s Posts: 568
    edited May 2004
    You got it cody!.. Liquid nails. As far as caulking, the L.N. will do that my nature. You use srping terminals?

    Radioshack has another box part that is a rectangle, and has the screwdown lugs with bannana plug holes. offers both options and is much more secure. It will take my 12ga easily and is very strong connection.
    >There's 4 R.S. Box connections:
    > Round cup: spring terms
    > Square cup: Spring terms and RCA
    > Hang cup: Spring terms, and hanging slot
    > Rec Cup: twist-down/spade/banana terminals
    the advantage to the last is that it is a sealed cup... no air leaks.
    The first is as well, but offers only a small contact area. You may have to look at the catalog for those. I had the round cups and cut them out for the better rec ones.

    I didn't see that old thread about the box.. I'll have to search.
    -Jerry
    ___________________________
    Total cost of materials: Going up...
    Time spent: Countless Hours...
    Cranking the system, having it quiet outside the car, and sound that takes the rear-view off inside: PRICELESS

    For some things in life, you pay others to do it... For a masterpeice, do it yourself.
  • LittleCar_w/12s
    LittleCar_w/12s Posts: 568
    edited May 2004
    ___________________________
    Total cost of materials: Going up...
    Time spent: Countless Hours...
    Cranking the system, having it quiet outside the car, and sound that takes the rear-view off inside: PRICELESS

    For some things in life, you pay others to do it... For a masterpeice, do it yourself.
  • pOP
    pOP Posts: 23
    edited May 2004
    ya speakers wire and wires like from the bettery to amp....
    -=KirK=-
  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2004
    Originally posted by pOP
    ya speakers wire and wires like from the bettery to amp....
    what about em?
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • pOP
    pOP Posts: 23
    edited May 2004
    wires as in speaker wire?
    -=KirK=-
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited May 2004
    ummm... huh?

    okay, starting from the top:
    -radioshack speaker wire is fine, as long as it's 12 gauge or bigger (as big as the amp/terminal will take is good)
    -liquid nails to glue box shut and can be used to seal also; air out the box for a few days before installing the sub, else the fumes (which you may not be able to smell after a day or 2) may destroy surrounds
    -use screws to hold the box (made of mdf or birch plywood) together
    -power wire comes in kits, or you can get 4 gauge (or bigger, if you want) at home depot/etc; i don't know how it compares in quality to audio cabling. check out www.knukonceptz.com too. you'll need a fuse on the power wire in any case. if you already have an amp, you can put a distribution block on the existing power wire, assuming it's big enough
    -make sure you build the box well, with lots of bracing (here i'd have to disagree w/ previous advice-sealing before bracing would make it awfully hard to get the braces snug in the corners, yes?)
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs