Was wondering if a Halfer XL600 is powerful enough to power SDA SRS 2.3TL
BLACKWIDOWSLAYR
Posts: 22
I don’t know if my amp destroy speakers. I don’t want to spend money on fixing up the speakers if I I will destroy them. My uncle said to not turn up the volume high, other wise. They will be ruined. I had the the EQ, amp, pre amp gone through. They all are in good working condition. It’s been 20 years or so since the crossovers have been serviced and who knows how long for the drivers and tweeters. A year ago, she sounded great! Now I can’t bare to listen because they sound like ****.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Best Answers
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The mw6510 is discontinued, what do I get instead? So I put multimeter to ac voltage and put the positive tester to one of the top slots and the negative in the ground, the bottom one that looks like a hole?
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In most cases 4-6" off back wall will give you better bass. You buy used mw6510 like the rest of us.
Those bookshelf things behind the speakers aren't helping in the sound dept. Might be causing a particular frequency to boost or null out.
In smaller rooms bigger speakers can overwhelm the room. Hence the need for a bigger room for them to breathe.
Answers
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LOLLumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Ok, so that beggs the question: what did you do before they started sounding poorly?
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Hook it back up & turn volume all the way up. Wait as long as you can. It may come out of it on its own..
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All I did before they started sounding poorly was just listen to them.
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What may come out on its own? Won’t I blow the speakers? What will this achieve?
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Thats quite the amplifier. I know nothing about. Plenty of power. Is something hooked up wrong ? Lightly push in on EACH driver to see if they all move free.& not froze up. Push in on Passive & see if ALL drivers come out & stay out for 3-5 seconds. This checks for air leak. Check to see if positive & negative cable/wires are correct..
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Also if available, check the amp in another pair of speakers and listen closely for distortion (low volume obviously)
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They all move free. But they stay out for a maximum of 3 seconds.
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Can I try the amp of small speaker sthe the Polk t15 bookshelf speaker?
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Yes. Keep the EQ flat and keep the volume at a REASONABLE level.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Thanks for all your help!
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Should I be hearing static in my tweeters at low volume?
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And with the volume all the way down.
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A slight amount of hiss is not uncommon with no signal going to the speakers. If the music is playing and you distinctly hear static, then either a connection is loose or you have an issue with a component within the rig.
If the static follows the signal, then it sounds like either a bad tube or capacitor.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I can only hear the hissing when putting my ear next to the tweeter. The hissing doesn’t go away when turning up the volume. It just makes it sound muffled.
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That is normal. There are ways to lower it but every system I have ever heard has had some sort of hiss. Some systems just seem to hide it better than others. When the music is playing, on most systems, you should not be able to hear it unless the passages get quiet again. Much like a needle riding on an LP until the music starts...
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Thanks for keeping up with all of my questions!
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The Hafler XL-600 is a development of the Hafler DH-500. Either one is a fine product IF THEY"RE WORKING PROPERLY and if the upstream components aren't faulty. The 500 has known weaknesses--the input board, and the Flame Emitting Transistors (FETs), to name two. I don't know enough about the 600, but the obvious diagnostic would be to perform the "Null" testing as published in the magazine reviews of the XL-280 and described in the owner's manual, to see if there's problems in one channel that make it differ from the other channel.BLACKWIDOWSLAYR wrote: »I don’t know if my amp destroy speakers. I don’t want to spend money on fixing up the speakers if I I will destroy them. My uncle said to not turn up the volume high, other wise. They will be ruined.
https://www.stereophile.com/solidpoweramps/hafler_xl-280_power_amplifier/index.html
http://www.hafler.com/pdf/archive/XL-600_amp_man.pdf
How long ago? Who did the work? Are they reputable? Do you have faulty interconnect cables? Faulty or under-sized speaker cables?BLACKWIDOWSLAYR wrote: »I had the the EQ, amp, pre amp gone through. They all are in good working condition.
If they were "serviced" with electrolytic caps, they need "service" again. 20-ish years is about the service life of electrolytic caps.BLACKWIDOWSLAYR wrote: »It’s been 20 years or so since the crossovers have been serviced and who knows how long for the drivers and tweeters. A year ago, she sounded great! Now I can’t bare to listen because they sound like ****.
Things would be easier if you did a better job of describing what's wrong with the sound. "like ****" doesn't give us much to go on.
How are the speakers positioned? Describe the room. Do you have proper voltage at the wall sockets? ( I know of a guy who tried running a pair of big-boy SRS using Hafler 500 amps. The entire house had 60-amp electrical service, so he was in perpetual brown-out. He went back to his previous amp that didn't pull as much current from the wall socket, and it actually sounded better.)
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I just had the amp, pre amp, and EQ gone through last month. I had them done/checked at, the audio shop. In Racine. He has a good reputation. I haven’t had him check the interconnect cables, speakers and speaker cables. Actually, the crossovers have never been touched.
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The speakers are positioned in the front of the room about a foot or so away from the back and side walls
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The room is a rectangle
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How do I know if I am getting proper voltage?
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If my tweeters are bad, what tweeter should I get. Same for the drivers.
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Tweeter will be RD-0198
Drivers are all mw6510
All the info you need is here
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/1/8/5/1/1/26696.pdf
everything else for 2.3tl is here.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55888/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-amp-more-stereo-dimensional-array-sda#latestPost edited by pitdogg2 on -
Amplifier is plugged into a duplex outlet? Stick voltmeter probes into the "other" socket, watch the voltmeter as you turn the amplifier on, and run it at just a bit higher volume than you'd normally use. Bass-heavy program material would be best.BLACKWIDOWSLAYR wrote: »How do I know if I am getting proper voltage?
The voltmeter shouldn't ever dip below 115 volts. Anything under 110 likely requires attention--probably of the "professional" (expensive) sort--either an electrician to upgrade some or all of the house wiring, or a visit from your power company to find the source of the low-voltage condition if the input to the entire home is affected.
For the record, Polk suggests having the speakers 3+ feet from side walls--which is obviously not possible with the speakers along that wall. -
So my speakers need more room? Lol
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I roughly have 7 inches on side of speaker from wall and 9 inches from back of speaker to wall.
