Amp overheating, wired correctly,what do I need to do, Any Help ???

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Here is my problem, not set up on Everything works fine and at low volumes, is crisp.The issue I have is when I try to start to listen to a song on my radio loud for a longer time, after a 20-30mins say, it starts to get very warm and i am at a long list of things to possible help.

1) Do I need more power and a bigger battery? say an Optimum or so?

2) Need another amp and possibly put the back speakers and subs on my current amp, set up crossing for just the rear speakers and get a larger amp for the front. Should I then get a 2 or 4 channel, and do the same and cross for lower Ohms? (if so , what wattage)

Stereo>
Alpine INE-W960-non-HDMI all sub and speaker outputs/GPS/Bluetooth n phone

AMP>
Polk Audio PA D5000.5 900W RMS, 5-Channel Class D PA Series Car Amplifier
4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts x 1 chan. |
2 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan. + 400 watts x 1 chan.

Speakers>
2 sets> Polk Audio MM6502 6.5" 2-Way Component Set
Peak 75 Watts per speaker.
Continuous Power Handling: 125 Watts per speaker.
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms.

Sub>Polk MM1 Series 10" 1200W 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil
Peak Power Handling: 1200 Watts
Continuous Power Handling: 400 Watts RMS

Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
Mlite999

Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    What all is feeding power to the amp?
  • [Deleted User]
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    Are the speakers wired properly? Done incorrectly and you can place a lot of demand on your amplifier. Also, most amps do run a bit on the warm side and what you're experiencing here might be perfectly normal. It looks like you're driving the sub with the same amp. Am I right? You'd be better served with a dedicated sub amp.
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
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    Polk makes car amps now? I didn't know that..............

    If this amp really puts out 900 watts and is a box 1.81”(H) X 13.31”(W) X 6.75”(L) I would expect it to get VERY warm (even with class D).

    Don't mount it on carpet and some kind of 1-2 inch riser mount would be good. Or directly to metal in the trunk? That said I would expect these to be able to get VERY hot and be OK. Like in a car, in the sun, in the summer hot.
  • mlite999
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    I have it hooked to my battery with a fuse in between, I have a Polk small 330 watt amp I can cross for a dedicated sub amp. I will put some risers on the amp too so it has more
  • mlite999
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    Air to circulate around it.
  • codycatalist
    codycatalist Posts: 2,662
    edited December 2018
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    Amps get hot man, it happens. Unless it goes into protect I wouldn't give it any worry. I live in Arizona where the trunk gets up to 150 degrees...that's before I even start playing anything and I have rarely had an issue.

    When I was working with a Boss amp back in the day I wired in a computer fan through the amp's power inputs and mounted it to the run air across the heat sinks. Yes it introduced noise but I didn't care much at the time.

    I only did this because it DID go into protection mode due to the heat after playing for 20 min. That amp was a POS but gave me music.
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