These are the greatest things I've seen in a long time!
Jstas
Posts: 14,842
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/products/led-tube
Yes, it's light bulbs.
What did you think it was gonna be?
What's so awesome about them? They are LED lights that work with a standard, 4 foot, common, T8 ballast resistor fixture for florescent shop/utility lights.
So?
Well, a T8 bulb comes in all kinds of flavors and a single bulb burns about 48 watts at the minimum (I've seen them as high as 60 watts) so that means that a single, dual bulb fixture eats 96-120 watts of power.
If you have a space with 10 lights in it, that's 960-1200 watts of power to light your space.
These LED bulbs fit your same T8 fixture you already have, work with the ballast resistors so no need to bypass them and they only burn 15 watts of power each. So one fixture burns 30 watts of power, 10 burn 300. For the same amount of light.
So if you have 4 foot shop lights in your garage, you need to get these. Me, I have about 2100 square feet of garage space and about 20 of these lights. I have a bunch to repair so one of the two projects I have planned for this Christmas break is to replace my broken lighting and upgrade all of my lights to these bulbs. It's going to cost me about $400 to do it but with the power savings alone, I will have cut twice that from my yearly electric bill in the first year.
Yes, it's light bulbs.
What did you think it was gonna be?
What's so awesome about them? They are LED lights that work with a standard, 4 foot, common, T8 ballast resistor fixture for florescent shop/utility lights.
So?
Well, a T8 bulb comes in all kinds of flavors and a single bulb burns about 48 watts at the minimum (I've seen them as high as 60 watts) so that means that a single, dual bulb fixture eats 96-120 watts of power.
If you have a space with 10 lights in it, that's 960-1200 watts of power to light your space.
These LED bulbs fit your same T8 fixture you already have, work with the ballast resistors so no need to bypass them and they only burn 15 watts of power each. So one fixture burns 30 watts of power, 10 burn 300. For the same amount of light.
So if you have 4 foot shop lights in your garage, you need to get these. Me, I have about 2100 square feet of garage space and about 20 of these lights. I have a bunch to repair so one of the two projects I have planned for this Christmas break is to replace my broken lighting and upgrade all of my lights to these bulbs. It's going to cost me about $400 to do it but with the power savings alone, I will have cut twice that from my yearly electric bill in the first year.
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
Comments
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Thanks for shedding light on this subject
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The new LED lights of all shapes and sizes are great for power savings.
One thing you need to pay attention to is the color of the light -- too much blue is bad for your eyes, your state of mind, etc., at least according to the AMA.
When you buy LED bulbs, make sure they are rated at <3000K is the recommendation of the AMA.Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
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I use LED bulbs for outdoor lighting. When I moved into my house a few years ago the outdoor lighting was running around 380 watts overnight. Now, it's down to 40 watts for the same light output and with dusk to dawn bulbs that turn off and on by themselves. Totally agree on the color temperature. I first tried three "daylight" LED bulbs in a post light and those things looked like someone was arc welding at the bottom of my driveway at night. Not pleasant to look at!
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Moose68Bash wrote: »The new LED lights of all shapes and sizes are great for power savings.
One thing you need to pay attention to is the color of the light -- too much blue is bad for your eyes, your state of mind, etc., at least according to the AMA.
When you buy LED bulbs, make sure they are rated at <3000K is the recommendation of the AMA.
yet the same AMA recommends "daylight" for others.....
All my lights are daylight 5500K or 6500K i dislike those <3000 yellow lights -
For shop lights, daylight is the best option IMO.
In home, the ones that mimic the incandescent light are the least jarring.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I haven't read AMA recommendations for LEDs above 3000K.
The 2700K LEDs are the one I prefer because they appear to me to be closest to the incandescent "soft white" color.
Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
I am quickly transitioning all my lighting to LED. I really like the 60watt equivalent floods for recessed fixtures. Look awesome in our kitchen and hallways. You'd never know they are LED; far less energy and heat.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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I am quickly transitioning all my lighting to LED. I really like the 60watt equivalent floods for recessed fixtures. Look awesome in our kitchen and hallways. You'd never know they are LED; far less energy and heat.
So true. I used to have six halogen recessed lights in my kitchen that would spot heat the bathroom floor above and raise the temperature in the kitchen by a couple degrees. I did have to remove the dimmer switch from the kitchen because the first wave of supposed dimmable LED bulbs would flicker on the circuit with it active. -
I am quickly transitioning all my lighting to LED. I really like the 60watt equivalent floods for recessed fixtures. Look awesome in our kitchen and hallways. You'd never know they are LED; far less energy and heat.
So true. I used to have six halogen recessed lights in my kitchen that would spot heat the bathroom floor above and raise the temperature in the kitchen by a couple degrees. I did have to remove the dimmer switch from the kitchen because the first wave of supposed dimmable LED bulbs would flicker on the circuit with it active.
I have that problem now in my kitchen. Probably going to just remove the dimmer switches until we redo the kitchen.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
You can also make your own to. They come in 1/2" wide 16' rolls with adhesive backing. I use 8'X 1/2'' aluminum channel and power them with walwarts. They're 12volt and they light up very nicely with anything from 9 to 14.2 volts dc.
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That seems like a tremendous amount effort compared to hanging a fixture, plugging it into an outlet and installing some light bulbs.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Moose68Bash wrote: »I haven't read AMA recommendations for LEDs above 3000K.
The 2700K LEDs are the one I prefer because they appear to me to be closest to the incandescent "soft white" color.
In the winter time I have read that they recommend daylight for S.A.D. (seasonal affected disorder).. I like the blue/white color and they have a much better color rendering index. nothing wrong with either I just prefer daylight to the more yellow lighting. I've tried the LED tubes before and they were not long lasting and kind of flaky in the beginning they're are much improved now. Some of the older direct replacements were not as bright and the reg fluorescent bulb, then the newer LED that you cut the ballast wire I was not comfortable with. I had a few of those go nuclear when the circuit board toasted. I'm waiting for outside LED security lighting to come down a bit. ATM the units that match the 35w high pressure sodium's I have most I find that are reasonable priced do not match the lumens the HPS has, but they're out there if I wanted to pay 350.00 each. I have 3 HPS fixtures like I said they take 35w HPS bulbs the LED fixtures are twice the wattage for each fixture, the only way there would be a cost savings is that the LED fixture will not run constant and could be put on infrared eye to only turn on with movement something you cannot do with HPS -
^^70W led is more in line with a 150w HPS.The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
Here are some cool LED bulbs.
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That seems like a tremendous amount effort compared to hanging a fixture, plugging it into an outlet and installing some light bulbs.
In my case cutting into the drywall and tying into 120 ac wasn't an option for the 8' light I needed. It was quite simple to plug the wallwart in and run the 22 gauge wire to the strip. It's far less obtrusive than a fluorescent or led tube and my killawatt says it only uses 9.5 watts along with plenty of light. -
I like light bulbs
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Moose68Bash wrote: »I haven't read AMA recommendations for LEDs above 3000K.
The 2700K LEDs are the one I prefer because they appear to me to be closest to the incandescent "soft white" color.
In the winter time I have read that they recommend daylight for S.A.D. (seasonal affected disorder)..
October to June here in the PNW....
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ken brydson wrote: »Moose68Bash wrote: »I haven't read AMA recommendations for LEDs above 3000K.
The 2700K LEDs are the one I prefer because they appear to me to be closest to the incandescent "soft white" color.
In the winter time I have read that they recommend daylight for S.A.D. (seasonal affected disorder)..
October to June here in the PNW....
Sorry brah... Remember puff puff pass
I've read that because of such long dreary weather up there quite a few decide to check out.
Do not know how accurate that is
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ken brydson wrote: »Moose68Bash wrote: »I haven't read AMA recommendations for LEDs above 3000K.
The 2700K LEDs are the one I prefer because they appear to me to be closest to the incandescent "soft white" color.
In the winter time I have read that they recommend daylight for S.A.D. (seasonal affected disorder)..
October to June here in the PNW....
Sorry brah... Remember puff puff pass
I've read that because of such long dreary weather up there quite a few decide to check out.
Do not know how accurate that is
Ice, rum, coke for me. Don't personally partake in the green.... -
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