Bi-wiring -- What guage wire?

ascienzo
ascienzo Posts: 48
Hi,

I think this forum is great--I can ask all of my crazy questions about my sound system to people who actually want to answer my crazy questions *LOL*

When bi-wiring a speaker, is better to use 2 different guages of wire --say 12 guage and 14 guage or should I use the same guage of wire for both connections??

I read somewhere--it may have been on this site--to use heavier wire for the bottom connectors and lighter wire for the top connectors...not really sure why, but I would be interested in knowing your experiences with this process...

I'm currently bi-wired on my front and center speakers, but I'm too knew to this to actually "hear" a difference...

Many thanks for your comments/suggestions :D
H/K525avr
Fronts–RT55i [bi-wired]
Center–CSi40 [bi-wired]
Rears–RT38i
Sub–PSW404
Post edited by ascienzo on

Comments

  • John K.
    John K. Posts: 822
    edited April 2004
    Ascienzo, welcome, and the first thing that you should realize is that the reason you can hear no difference from the biwiring isn't that you're too new, but that there isn't any difference. If you nevertheless insist on biwiring there's no electrical reason for the two wires to be of different gauge. For the relatively short distances to your main and center speakers 14ga is more than heavy enough.
  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited April 2004
    Personally I like 10 awg for everything up front, but then I'm pushing a fair amount of power up front i.e. 4+ kw.
  • ascienzo
    ascienzo Posts: 48
    edited April 2004
    Thanks for your responses--
    mmmmmmmm, it's interesting to get different points-of-view...

    If bi-wiring accomplishes nothing, then why does Polk sell speakers that can be bi-wired in the first place or are these extra connectors for special applications?

    Also, in the "Polk files" (education section) there is a discussion about bi-wiring and it's also mentioned briefly in the literature that comes with the speakers...

    Just curious :D
    H/K525avr
    Fronts–RT55i [bi-wired]
    Center–CSi40 [bi-wired]
    Rears–RT38i
    Sub–PSW404
  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited April 2004
    Among other reasons they can also be bi-amped which imho DOES have value.

    Some do feel bi-wiring is of value although I don't happen to be one of them.
  • Ron-P
    Ron-P Posts: 8,519
    edited April 2004
    I have my front 3 (RT55 / CS400) bi-amped all with 14ga. I used to run 12 but when I revamped the room I dropped to 14. I can hear no difference between the two.
    If...
    Ron dislikes a film = go out and buy it.
    Ron loves a film = don't even rent.
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited April 2004
    The benefits of bi-wiring vary speaker to speaker and listener to listener. If you want to try it "on-the-cheap" buy Radio Shacks 18awg solid core hook-up wire. It's very cheap and has good sonic quality. Bi-wire your system and check it out before you make a big investment in bi-wire cables.

    I bi-wired for awhile but didn't find any sonic benefit, so I went back to single wiring.

    Many companies provide bi-wire posts because consumers assume it means a better quality product...keep this in mind. In short, mostly "marketing."
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited April 2004
    Double post...disregard.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited April 2004
    Lots of opinions on this topic. I heard that for the high-pass wires, find a wire with the highest strand count that you can find.

    Regards,
    PolkThug
  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited April 2004
    Originally posted by ascienzo
    If bi-wiring accomplishes nothing, then why does Polk sell speakers that can be bi-wired in the first place or are these extra connectors for special applications?

    The number one benefit of having seperate binding posts for lows and highs is for bi-amping.
  • Ron-P
    Ron-P Posts: 8,519
    edited April 2004
    I did at one point bi-wire and did notice a difference, but it was so dang close it might have been something I just wanted to hear. Best thing to do, just replace the gold plated jumpers with some quality 12 or 14ga wire and leave it at that.

    Now with bi-amping, a whole new ballgame there. I immediately noticed a significant improvement in sound.
    If...
    Ron dislikes a film = go out and buy it.
    Ron loves a film = don't even rent.
  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited April 2004
    Agreed with bi-amping. If one has speakers that have serious low end capabilities if one doesn't either have a bunch of power going to them or aren't biamping them or with mediocre power levels both then imho one will notice a distinct diff.
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited April 2004
    Bi-amping, I have though of that but not sure if it would make much difference in my case. Bi-amp just the fronts, I would assume would be the best thing to do.

    I'm currently running RTi70's as my fronts (and center) with H/K 7200. 100W should be enough for these speakers with 80Hz crossover? Should I consider getting a 2*100W amp for the lows?

    I'm thinking of adding another pair of RTi70's as surround. Getting a 5*100W amp maybe then to listen to DVD-A?

    I do have a sub so I don't really need mains with bigger bass, like the RTi12/150's.
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited May 2004
    Some hear a difference bi-wiring, some don't. In some instances the change has not been a desirable one. Some hear a difference bi-amping some don't.

    Often it boils down to whether the wire guage or amp power was sufficient to begin with. This is a possible explanantion of Ron P's suggestion (and it's a very good one) to replace the stock jumpers with wire.

    Here's a great link on wiring that includes a table on gauge vs run length and speaker impedance. The latter is often overlooked, but is significant in that the impedance dictates the amount of current the wire must carry.
    http://home.earthlink.net/~rogerr7/wire.htm

    Especially in the case of wire, it can be inexpensive enough to try it for yourself...

    Have fun... and welcome to the Club...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited May 2004
    Sami -- I believe bi-amping in your case would make a difference, even with your powerful receiver. Give it a try. If, for some reason, it doesn't make a difference, you can always return the amp or sell it easily for nearly as much as you paid.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • ascienzo
    ascienzo Posts: 48
    edited May 2004
    Hi everyone:

    Many thanks for your very different and opinionated views...

    I was doing a little searching on the internet concerning this subject and ran into this--
    http://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/audio/biwire/Page1.html

    It's interesting in that he tries to give you a scientific and mathematical view of bi-wiring and what the results should be--at least theoretically...

    From what I can see here, some of you may have already discovered this web-site, to those who have, I apologize for being redundant...

    I also like the idea of replacing the jumpers with quality wire hook-ups--this makes good sense to me as well, especially since I've taken apart a speaker to make a repair and have examined the wiring and x/o module--dust or dirt may impede the signal after time on the factory installed jumpers.

    Thanks again to everyone for your time, and good insight...
    H/K525avr
    Fronts–RT55i [bi-wired]
    Center–CSi40 [bi-wired]
    Rears–RT38i
    Sub–PSW404