Enclosure finish?

I have a custom subwoofer enclosure being built and it should be here next week.

1 inch thick baffle with 1/4 inch recess so I flush mount. Sealed single chamber for two 12s. It is made from MDF.

I was thinking either a pressure sensitive vaneer or a paint and lacquer.

Does anyone have experience putting a finish on MDF? Any other suggestions?

These are the drivers that are going in. Any other ideas that would contrast well with the drivers?


lazge9iaytz9.jpg

Comments

  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,996
    Need to seal the mdf first. I'd use a veneer to ensure a clean, even finish.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Need to seal the mdf first. I'd use a veneer to ensure a clean, even finish.

    I was thinking this would fit with my room and ad a bit of contrast.

    bp2f3dzwwzwr.jpg
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,996
    Not bad.
  • verbverb Posts: 4,074
    I’m doing a set of 1C’s in Zebrawood. Very similar!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Project BoxE, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    I like what they did here with the Kappa series cabinet. The person building the box starts on it Tuesday. I'm now trying to decide if I want to do an over/ under taller cabinet or a longer shorter one. y99otmo0m12b.jpg
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,996
    Over-under will allow for easier placement and smaller footprint.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    Ok. Maybe I'll explore some other options. The company the is building it can do pretty much anything I want.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    2i4ftj8ust1u.jpg

    This is behind my seated position couch. 10 inch drivers. Same Infinity CMMD cones.
    I also have not decided if the new sub will be behind the couch like the 10s or if it will be at the front of the room and 180 out of phase. If I do go with behind the couch I may just seal it, spray paint and lacquer it.

    But.... I'm kind of liking the idea of a taller vertical stack.
  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 6,953
    edited November 11
    CH46E wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Need to seal the mdf first. I'd use a veneer to ensure a clean, even finish.

    I was thinking this would fit with my room and ad a bit of contrast.

    bp2f3dzwwzwr.jpg

    That is nice! Here is another choice, Black Limba. Not as dark but some similarities.

    n3kz3mjup670.jpg
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    Need some opinions. I have asked for a 3.75 cu ft single chamber sealed box. I figured after woofer displacement it would be around 3 cu ft. So 1.5 per 12 inch sub. I'm second guessing and thinking maybe I should go a little smaller.

    Infinity would not give me the ts parameters.

    What say you?
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,996
    Without TS, it's a guessing game. Best way to get close: find another infinity speaker that uses the same woofer and derive the size from that.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    Right, they only came in ported enclosures as far as I can tell. As far as I can estimate is the IL60 Interlude had about 4 cu ft ported for the sub. I got lucky with my 10s. Thier hard hitting ability is crazy. Since the 10s worked out in a sealed I want the 12 sealed also. I have plenty of power for a sealed enclosure.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    I guess I can go a little on the larger size. I'd be able to add mass in the chamber to reduce air space right? Does that sound logical? I know not ideal but.....
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,996
    4 ft² per ported 12... Figure about 1/3 that per for a sealed box, so you're in the right range. Fine tuning can be done with batting.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 803
    Ok thanks man! I'll stick with the 3.75 and go from there.
  • teamjhertzteamjhertz Posts: 337
    I used kilz product to seal the mdf on my DIY enclosure
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,525
    Actually last weekend this old house had a great piece on an mdf project. They highly recommended oil based primer and to fill nail or screw holes after you lay down the oil based primer as the filler stuck better to the primer than plain mdf. 2 coats of primer then any latex paint of your choice to finish.

    Hope this helps
  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 999
    Always prime MDF before any finish and like pit says above, filler can used before or after that process.
    If applying veneer then you want to block sand all corners. If you don’t, it will peel later in its life.
    Use 3M spray adhesive to stick the veneer and spray on the box and veneer and let dry until very tacky before applying. Make sure it’s cut perfect or that you know how to bend or file corners before applying.
    Good luck
  • zingozingo Audiophile Posts: 11,691
    I have finished a few subwoofers with rubberized paint used to refinish decks or stairs. It applies pretty easy, hides imperfections, and creates a pretty durable finish.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!