Polk audio sda srs placement

sansuibutch

I recently moved my srs to a new listening/movie room. They don't sound as good as when they were in the living room. I've been moving them around a bit mainly closer and further from the front wall. My room a little over 17' wide. The speakers are about 38" off the side walls, 7'4" apart and about 11 inches off the back wall. I had them alot closer to the back wall and they didnt sound right. Pulled them out a few good inches and sound much better. Im still adjusting them and listening. I'm wondering where other people's srs are standing in relation to the wall behind the speakers. Or where they sound the best. I checked the owners manual and it mentions they should be right up against the wall, that didn't work for me. I have some acoustic pannels to hang and not 100 percent sure where the speakers are gonna sit so I don't want to hang them till I'm sure. Thank you

gmcman

I would try around 7-8" from back wall, and if poss, Inwould try to get them closer together...maybe about 6'.

Just be sure they are the same distance to the front wall, also check for level.

F1nut

Sounds like you moved them into a smaller room. Big speakers need room to breath. Might be time to get smaller SDA's.

sansuibutch

gmcman wrote: »

I would try around 7-8" from back wall, and if poss, Inwould try to get them closer together...maybe about 6'.

Just be sure they are the same distance to the front wall, also check for level.

I will give this a try.

sansuibutch

F1nut wrote: »

Sounds like you moved them into a smaller room. Big speakers need room to breath. Might be time to get smaller SDA's.

The room is actually just about the same exact size. It's a room I built in the basement under my living room . But they are on the shorter wall now so I understand your comment. But in my living room on the long wall they weren't even nearly centered. One speaker was 3 feet from the wall and about 7 feet apart, so the other speaker was all most in the middle of the room. My living room is an acoustical nightmare so I'm excited to get this room setup properly. My rack in the basement sticks out further that my other one so I figured the equipment in the middle of the speakers might have been the issue. That's why I pulled them out to begin with. I can't tell if the rack now being behind the baffle helped or the distance from the rear wall played the part.

gmcman

When I mentioned back wall, I actually meant front wall, but back of speaker.

Can you post a pic of the setup?

Tony M

My SRS2's sound great at the recommended distance of 8" off of the wall behind them. Got that from this forum from experienced owners years ago.

I've had them on the short wall and now the long wall. Both places sound amazing.

I have them about 9' apart to the center of the speakers..

warren

sansuibutch wrote: »

I recently moved my srs to a new listening/movie room. They don't sound as good as when they were in the living room. I've been moving them around a bit mainly closer and further from the front wall. My room a little over 17' wide. The speakers are about 38" off the side walls, 7'4" apart and about 11 inches off the back wall. I had them alot closer to the back wall and they didnt sound right. Pulled them out a few good inches and sound much better. Im still adjusting them and listening. I'm wondering where other people's srs are standing in relation to the wall behind the speakers. Or where they sound the best. I checked the owners manual and it mentions they should be right up against the wall, that didn't work for me. I have some acoustic pannels to hang and not 100 percent sure where the speakers are gonna sit so I don't want to hang them till I'm sure. Thank you

Man, theres always a fly in the ointment, after 6 months of dick’in around with my 2.3’s I’ve come to the conclusion that after moving all my 4 sets of speakers there is always room for improvement.. Me thinks...

machone

8" works for my 2.3TLs

nooshinjohn

My room is 19 feet on the long wall. I have them set up at 42” off the side walls and 5” from the wall itself. They sound great at that setup. You said they were downstairs now... concrete basement perhaps? If so, room treatments are a must.

sansuibutch

T

nooshinjohn wrote: »

My room is 19 feet on the long wall. I have them set up at 42” off the side walls and 5” from the wall itself. They sound great at that setup. You said they were downstairs now... concrete basement perhaps? If so, room treatments are a must.

They are in the basement but it is finished. I had them around 5" off the back wall and they just didn't sound right. I then moved them to about 11" off the wall and they sounded much better. I took everyone's advice and now there about 8" off the wall and still sound good. So I guess this is where I'm going to keep them. I do have treatment I need to put up bit didn't want to set it up till I knew where they were staying. I also need to get some spikes, wich also might make a difference. Do you have spikes? I would love to keep an closer to the wall

nooshinjohn

Spikes are a must.

gmcman

I dont know if you moved the speakers in large or small increments...but I would recommend 1/2" increments. From 5" to 8" with my 2.3 TL's, there was a noticeable change in bass and depth of soundstage. As of now, 7" is working good.

sansuibutch

Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors. Do the same rules apply on a concrete floor? I have them sitting on padded carpet tile over the concrete floor.

pitdogg2

sansuibutch wrote: »

Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors. Do the same rules apply on a concrete floor? I have them sitting on padded carpet tile over the concrete floor.

IMO yes. My 2.3TL pair would vibrate as much as a 1/4" one way or another over the course of a week while playing. My floor is very short nap carpet. You may think 1/4" isn't much, but it can shift the stage quite a bit. I never thought they would walk because they did sink into the short nap and leave a small depression, but they sure did.

F1nut

sansuibutch wrote: »

Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors. Do the same rules apply on a concrete floor? I have them sitting on padded carpet tile over the concrete floor.

It's even more important to spike any speaker that's sitting on carpet.

F1nut

sansuibutch wrote: »

Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors.

That's what floor discs are for.

[Deleted User]

F1nut wrote: »

sansuibutch wrote: »

Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors.

That's what floor discs are for.

Just make sure those floor discs have spikes.

sansuibutch

I'm reading a lot of different opinions and results using spikes on concrete. What exactly are the spikes for , to couple the speakers to the floor to take the resonance out of the cabinet?

machone

My 2.3TLs are spiked through short nap carpet to concrete. They are rock solid with no movement. Spikes stabilze the speaker cabinet so when the drivers move forward and backward the cabinet stays put. This improves imaging and tightens bass.

sansuibutch

Cool. Thank you two for the explanation. I will get some spikes asap. I'm imagining they will sound different with spikes so Il wait to finish playing with placement till I get them installed.

F1nut

Be sure to get spikes big enough to support the weight and tall enough to get the base off the carpet. They should also be sharp enough to pierce the carpet and pad. Solid brass is an excellent choice. Do not buy the cheap Chinese spikes found on eBay.

sansuibutch

F1nut wrote: »

Be sure to get spikes big enough to support the weight and tall enough to get the base off the carpet. They should also be sharp enough to pierce the carpet and pad. Solid brass is an excellent choice. Do not buy the cheap Chinese spikes found on eBay.

I thought about that also. This carpet tile is pretty tough. Thank you sir.

pitdogg2

Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

sansuibutch

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

I'm have to remove one of my feet and see that thread I used. When I built my new end caps I used a different style setup. I guess I could just take the screw out holding them in and use a different style anchor

sansuibutch

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level. I'm not big on the height of them but I do like the diameter of the end that attaches to the speaker. I wasn't a huge fan of the factory anchors. But with these spikes they would work out good seeing the speakers will actually be sitting on the spikes rather than the threads rod of the feet. When I got baught my speakers and went to adjust the feet half of them spun the anchor out with an. That's why I went the route I did.

pitdogg2

sansuibutch wrote: »

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level.

Yes the do. you will need some T-nuts it appears. I would not use them in what you have now from the looks of it.

F1nut

sansuibutch wrote: »

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level. I'm not big on the height of them but I do like the diameter of the end that attaches to the speaker. I wasn't a huge fan of the factory anchors. But with these spikes they would work out good seeing the speakers will actually be sitting on the spikes rather than the threads rod of the feet. When I got baught my speakers and went to adjust the feet half of them spun the anchor out with an. That's why I went the route I did.

These are a little shorter and will work perfectly.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/mirror-image-pts-gold/

You can find the same basic spikes at Parts Express, Adona and a host of other sites.

I don't like the end tip that screws in or out, so I put thread lock on them. Any level adjustment needed is best done at the top and once obtained the gap can be filled with a washer of the proper thickness.

sansuibutch

Y

F1nut wrote: »

sansuibutch wrote: »

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level. I'm not big on the height of them but I do like the diameter of the end that attaches to the speaker. I wasn't a huge fan of the factory anchors. But with these spikes they would work out good seeing the speakers will actually be sitting on the spikes rather than the threads rod of the feet. When I got baught my speakers and went to adjust the feet half of them spun the anchor out with an. That's why I went the route I did.

These are a little shorter and will work perfectly.

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/mirror-image-pts-gold/

You can find the same basic spikes at Parts Express, Adona and a host of other sites.

I don't like the end tip that screws in or out, so I put thread lock on them. Any level adjustment needed is best done at the top and once obtained the gap can be filled with a washer of the proper thickness.

Ya I'm not a huge fan of the tip extending either, but I can use the tips to get them set nice and level then measure the gap with calipers so I know exactly how thick the washers need to be. But I'm not a fan of those t nut Pitdogg recommended because it doesn't let the full diameter of the spike contact the cabinet. I hate to say it but I might use the anchors that come with them, and screw them up just past flush with the bases. And I definetly like these spikes you sent in the link. These things are allready tall enough. Thank you again

F1nut

The screw in threaded inserts will work ok, but they tend to rip out if stressed. That can be helped by adding a bit of 5 miniute epoxy to the sides of the hole before **** them in. Use Q-tips to wipe out any excess epoxy from the internal threads.

Clipdat

He's coming unglued!