Finally Completed the rebuild of my 10B XO’s

transmaster

I have finished the rebuild of the 2nd set of Crossovers for my 1988 10B’s.
I used Mundorf M-Caps this time and 12 watt Vishay Mills resistors. I rebuilt these XO’s to the 10A spec’s minus the fuse. The protection circuits on my Yamaha RX-A770 are far better than the fuse, or the bogus Polyfuse. I replaced the Speaker binding posts with modern ones that will work with up to 10AWG wire, I use 12AWG. I constructed Daughter boards to mount the M-Caps on. I still have some work on the cabinets. These speakers have always been hung on the walls of my Man cave in the corner about 4 feet off of the floors. I am installing hammock mounts on the back with carabiners and rock climbing rope. I have never used M-Cap’s EVO’s on other forums I have heard real good things about them.

transmaster

Here is another angle. I used 1/8” Lexan for the daughter board I had a very interesting time cutting them out with a coping saw. The M-Caps are hotglued to the daughter board This time besides the Kester 44 eutectic solder I used Cardas paste solder flux which made a fantastic difference in the ease of soldering.

Tony M

I love my Monitor 10's too but dang, you went BIG fixing yours up! Good for you.

F1nut

Just wanted point out that the protection in your Yamaha and the fuse or poly in a vintage Polk serve two very different purposes.

transmaster

Yes I am well aware of the difference but I have had PA failure that blasted these 10B’s that got past the polyfuse. As you know the B Model is not fused like the A model.

Faustin

Them is some big cans. Will be curious as to how they sound after some burn in

pitdogg2

transmaster wrote: »

Yes I am well aware of the difference but I have had PA failure that blasted these 10B’s that got past the polyfuse. As you know the B Model is not fused like the A model.

A spiked clipped signal happens faster than the polyswitch can react. That is well know and documented.

CH46E

Any updates on the sound from the M-Caps?

transmaster

The pervious crossover was rebuilt with Sonicap Gen 1 12μF caps, and 33μF Axon True Caps. The Mundorf people tell me that these M-Cap EVO aluminums take between 100, and 200 hours to burn in depending on the input power. I can tell even early on these Mundorf’s blow the previous setup out of the water. The speakers are smoother, very clear, and the bottom end is much improved. For most music they are in a 2.1 setup paired with a Klipsch subwoofer. With the M-Caps I changed the LFE setting from 60Hz down to 40Hz. In Yamaha’s Direct Audio mode which a setting that turns the Yamaha in a straight 2 channel integrated stereo amp, just wonderful! I purchased these speakers new in 1988 they have never sounded this good. The frosting on the cake is these M-Cap EVO’s are much cheaper than the Sonicap Gen 1’s.

transmaster

Incidentally I used Mundorf E-Cap plain NPE’s to recap a pair of 48 year old Wharfdale W35’s. Holy Cow!!!!! I have always liked these late W series acoustic suspended speakers. They work best with NPE’s. I have become a real fan on these Mundorf cap’s 2 out 2 successful rebuilds.