3 12" DXI subs

Hello and thanks for taking the time to read, answer and help if possible. FNG here and I should already know these answers but I am just getting back into the car audio since many many years.. Like 20 of them ago... So quite a bit has changed since then.. I have 3 12" Polk DXI subs 2 being dvc and one being svc... How in the world do I run these 3 subs together? I know I can run the two either series or parallel, but this last one has got me stumped. I was going to run it to a JVC Arsenal 1600 watt. Its a 4 channel amp, but on my head unit I only have a set for rear output and front, Pioneer AVH-290bt.. although It does say that switching the rear channel on radio there is a possibility of running a small sub. wonder how small or big it can go and would I need a signal output converter? I guess this is many questions in one.. my apologies... One more question... I have 2 Alpine VPower amps, both mono amps, one is 650 the other is 450,,, can these two amps be strapped or tied together to get maximum moPowa to my subs? thanks for reading my rambling. I would appreciate any answers that could or can be given. I am also planning on adding 4 10's.. Fosgates... and I have another 500 watt Phoenix gold amp to push.. running out of rca places here... haha

Thanks and Best Regards,
JP

Comments

  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,992
    edited June 9
    I'll start with: no, you can't strap those amps. Sry.

    Next I'll assume the SVC is 4 ohm and the DVC is 2 2 ohm windings (fairly typical). So if you want to run all 3, series each DVC to 4 ohm then parallel all 3 for a 1.33 ohm load to the amp (assuming 1 ohm stable). With your HU, run all 4 pres and use the JVC to run your components, then use the JVC pre outs to send signal to the mono block. The VPower should have a remote level control, if not then grab an AC Epicenter (better idea anyway).

    Edit for poor maths
  • pickettpickett Posts: 6
    well I will have to agree with you. I am building a box for the entire back seat. I've cut the angles and still in my r&d phase There isn't a lot to go off of the internet so its a WIP. fitting 3 12s , 1 15, 2 10s isn't an easy chore, then where to mount the amps... I will keep on keepin on and thanks for the info...
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,992
    If you're still building, I'll suggest that the 15 and 10s get separate enclosures as well. Trying to balance that mess within a single box will be a nightmare and will cause sonic issues and mess with the loading of the amps. May I also suggest that you get another VPower so that the amp display doesn't look unbalanced (also, I've use a phoenix gold before and wasn't impressed).
  • pickettpickett Posts: 6
    by all means each sub will get its one box. I am a firm believer in sealed boxes. I am getting rid of two Memphis 12s shallow mount because I don't know a thing about inverting or even porting boxes. etc.... its a learning as I go on that stuff.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,992
    *Screw it, TL the thing and call it a day! Lol
  • pickettpickett Posts: 6
    right... Man I have looked all over the internet and tried to word and reword f150 supercrew back seat build, Ford supercrew sub box entire back seat.... dang... Nothin comes up with this... I have taken my entire seat out and I already have 2 of the boxes built but I don't think I have the right air space. Subs that I bought are either blown or about to be gone.. Not a big deal considering I didn't pay a hell of a lot for them. Plus I think that I will be using a different sub. Not that I don't like the ones I have, I like them tons.... But I don't think its the type sub I am looking for. Each sub has a unique sound.... I know I have enough air space for them. Could it be the way the box is shaped? If you took out the back 60/40 split on a 05 F150, cut the box in order to fit the back shape on the floorboard... I even lined the inside of the box with a dampening material and shoved some "cotton" up in there and it sounded okay for a few and then I heard a metal clank or metal to metal sound. No smoke no smell... Just a CLANK.... and I didn't have it up that high either. I have my dvc subs wired + - to amp and + - to opposite sides of sub. Nothing weird... just everyday wiring. I am thinking maybe not enough air space.. Hell I am about ready to throw my hands up and burn it all.... Boxes that is.... Not the subs.... lol.... I see in several spots where it says the Polk DXI 12 take about 1.5 cubic air space and in some it says .88... well what the hell... Make up your minds... OR at least make up my mind for me... Right now I have 1.5 that should be plenty... man o man... box dimensions are 16"L x 13"Wx 13H... I think that's it..
  • pickettpickett Posts: 6
    should I join all three boxes and slot this thing out? I have 1200 watts to drive them, center box would sit on the hump. I can join all 3 together and cut a hole in each side.. Nicely though.. I am a carpenter by trade. or slot each box separately.... I don't really want that type bass....
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,332
    I think that the cabinet is too big rather than too small. When a subwoofer box is too big, it Basically is like running in no box. At least that is my understanding. Also, 1.5 might be the box size for a ported box, that seems rather big for a sealed box. I think that is correct anyway, I built a box for a kicker once a few years ago, and we made the box too big and it was like the driver was not in a box.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • pickettpickett Posts: 6
    i believe .88 is the correct size. but turns out the sub is blown. 2 blown subs.... the original i picked up is still kickin.... Can i send these back to be rebuilt?
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,332
    pickett wrote: »
    i believe .88 is the correct size. but turns out the sub is blown. 2 blown subs.... the original i picked up is still kickin.... Can i send these back to be rebuilt?

    I’d say it is unlikely, but possible. But wasn’t this a fairly cheap sub? There are a few on eBay right now you could drop into your box.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,738
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    pickett wrote: »
    i believe .88 is the correct size. but turns out the sub is blown. 2 blown subs.... the original i picked up is still kickin.... Can i send these back to be rebuilt?

    I’d say it is unlikely, but possible. But wasn’t this a fairly cheap sub? There are a few on eBay right now you could drop into your box.

    They are pretty cheap.

    I use broken gear as an excuse to upgrade! =P I went from the DXI to the MM line and haven't looked back, I was a couple months late to grab an SR124 (drool).

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