Polk 1.2tl-Mcintosh amp hook up question
motorstereo
Posts: 2,141
I have a pair of 1.2tl's with the dreadaught and I drive them with a pair of Mcintosh mc1201's monoblocks. I use a pair MIT shotgun bi-wires and I'm super happy with the sound. Problem is I've recently read that I'm able to get 3 db more bass output by using the 8 ohm tap for the lows and 4 ohm tap for the tweets. I decided today would be the day I'd give this a shot. I'm presently using the 4ohm tap fullrange. I checked the 1.2's inputs with a meter and I get 3.9 ohms with the interconnect cable disconnected for the woofers and neither side registers anything on the meter with the tweeters which are rdo1098's. My questions before I go any further will I ruin anything by doing this form of bi-wiring and will I gain that 3db if it's safe to wire the 1.2s like that?
edit; Also is that normal for the 1098's to read zero resistance?
edit; Also is that normal for the 1098's to read zero resistance?
Best Answers
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You don't need 3db more from the from the Polks when paired to the big Mac's...The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
@motorstereo why not give it a try? You won’t know how it performs until you try.
I have read and responded to the thread on the other sight. I could absolutely tell a difference. At this point I cannot tell if it is for the best but for sure gives options.2 Channel Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II, 2 REL Carbon Limited, Norma Revo IPA-140B, Lumin U2 Mini, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Modwright PH 150, Denon DP-59l w/Denon DL-301MKII, WAY Silver 3 Ana+ Speaker Cables, WAY Silver 4+ Interconnect Cables, AudioQuest Niagara 7000 w/Dragon and Hurricane Power Cables -
Not to mention, 3db is *barely* audible to the human ear.
Not sure I agree 100%. Depending on room acoustics this could help resolve some deficiencies.2 Channel Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II, 2 REL Carbon Limited, Norma Revo IPA-140B, Lumin U2 Mini, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Modwright PH 150, Denon DP-59l w/Denon DL-301MKII, WAY Silver 3 Ana+ Speaker Cables, WAY Silver 4+ Interconnect Cables, AudioQuest Niagara 7000 w/Dragon and Hurricane Power Cables -
@motorstereo why not give it a try? You won’t know how it performs until you try.
I have read and responded to the thread on the other sight. I could positively tell a difference. At this point I cannot tell if it is for the best but for sure gives options.
Answers
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Not to mention, 3db is *barely* audible to the human ear."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
nooshinjohn wrote: »You don't need 3db more from the from the Polks when paired to the big Mac's...
No I do not "need" it but if it's there I don't want to overlook it.Not to mention, 3db is *barely* audible to the human ear.
My pre's volume control (Mcintosh c100) has the volume stepped in 1/2 decibel increments. 1/2 decibel is barely audible; 3db is quite audible to me.
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Hey Motor - Just found this thread! Are you still running this way?Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
Hey Motor - Just found this thread! Are you still running this way?
I never did give it a try. Maybe someday. -
Verb. I tried it with my mc601s about a year ago.
I have bi-amp cables and connected the low set to the 4 ohm taps and the highs to the 8 ohm taps. I could tell the difference. But after listening for about 10 hours decided to go back to the 8 ohm taps for both. It was nice on some tracks but gave a bit of bloat on others.
Since trying that I have added two subs to the mix. They have given me the lower frequencies I was looking for without pushing my speakers. The ease of the system drastically changed when I added the subs.
I say give both configurations a try.2 Channel Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II, 2 REL Carbon Limited, Norma Revo IPA-140B, Lumin U2 Mini, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Modwright PH 150, Denon DP-59l w/Denon DL-301MKII, WAY Silver 3 Ana+ Speaker Cables, WAY Silver 4+ Interconnect Cables, AudioQuest Niagara 7000 w/Dragon and Hurricane Power Cables -
I gave it some thought on trying the dual tap method but a couple issues kept me from ever giving it a try. The garden hose thick MH750 MIT shotguns (thanks f1nut) I use are bi-wires and were a very substantial upgrade in the bass over the Canares I was using. I do not have anything comparable to those MIT's in a single wire run so it would not be a fair comparison. FWIW I still use the 4ohm taps on the 1201's.
Sometimes it's best to leave things alone and I feel this is one of those times. -
Interesting comments - thanks! Yeah motor to dual tap I would need another set of MIT shotguns!
Trat for sure - subs look like the way to go. Lots more options, and flexibility.
Love this hobby!Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.