Refinish oak table top...what to use?

Our kitchen table has a golden oak type of stain on it and what appears to be polyurethane finish(it's glossy). I plan to take it down to bare wood(or as close as I can get it) and want a finish on it that is food grade and not shiny. So it will match the legs(not doing anything with them, they are in good condition) I guess I'll need to apply some sort of golden oak stain...but what should I finish it with...oil of some type?
Yep, my name really is Bob.
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Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,659
    Satin polyurethane will have no gloss
  • Mikey081057
    Mikey081057 Posts: 7,127
    You need to get it down to bare bare wood ... the better the prep the better the new finish will be. You can apply a stain. A poly can you give you durability since it is a table top. Lacquer looks the best but can have durability issues. it is oak and oak is very labor intensive. There is nothing easy about a good finish.

    @F1nut can give you the best advise.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    Just because the sheen is gloss does not mean the finish is polyurethane.

    You will never match the color of the top to the legs unless you have a pro do it.

    Any cured clear coat finish is food safe.

    Oil is a horrible choice for a kitchen table.

    Whatever finish is on there now will have to be completely removed (not as close as you can get it) before applying a new one.

    Your best bet for a durable finish would be conversion varnish, full catalyzed lacquer or polyurethane. The first two must be sprayed and contain toxic stuff, which helps the curing, but becomes non-toxic once fully cured in a matter of days. You must wear a respirator with special filters when spraying either otherwise you'll have the worst headache you'll ever know.
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  • Mikey081057
    Mikey081057 Posts: 7,127
    Jessie what would hold up best.... resist watermarks and stuff that could happen to a kitchen table?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    No i.

    Conversion varnish, which isn't actually a varnish. Very tough stuff. It should be noted though that the tougher the finish the harder it is to repair. Polyester is even tougher, it's what you see on pianos, but I wouldn't recommend it for a kitchen table. Extremely difficult to repair.
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  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 1,588
    @F1nut, what would you recommend for the average diyer? It looks like conversion varnish is best left to professionals.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    If you don't have spray equipment that pretty much leaves a wiping or brush finish. Probably the best choice then would be a wiping poly, but the coats are thin, so you need a minimum of 3 and for a kitchen table I think at least 5 would be a good idea.
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  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 1,588
    Thanks. I never tried wiping poly, so may give it a try once the temperature gets up.
  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 3,062
    I was thinking poly also, was thinking diluting an oil poly 3:1 w/mineral spirits and apply the thinned coat with natural hair brush. Any advantage to wiping poly over this?
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    Yes, you won't end up with brush marks or drips.
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  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    Is tung oil that you commonly see in stores really just a form of varnish? I used that on a table and it dried hard and shiny. I used it on rosewood. Seems durable enough? It’s my first attempt though.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    Yes, not much tung oil in them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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