Bi-Amp unmatched gain, does it matter
mpitogo
Posts: 504
in Electronics
McIntosh MA-5200 29db gain for mid/high
Rotel RB-1590 27.5db gain low
no active x-over just MA pre-out to both
Rotel RB-1590 27.5db gain low
no active x-over just MA pre-out to both
- Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
- Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
- Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
- Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
- Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
- Orphans Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
- Daughter's Bedroom 1-2.0 TBD Martin Logan Forte | Roku TV
- Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
- Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
- Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
- Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
Comments
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YesPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
YesMcIntosh MA-5200 29db gain for mid/high
Rotel RB-1590 27.5db gain low
no active x-over just MA pre-out to both
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
-- some "trim" will need to be provided either before, during or after the XO.
"During" will (should!) work fine if one uses a separate active XO, along the lines of something like this...
or something like this, perhaps if one has an aversion to "pro" gear:
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Dang ok so maybe I’ll just give up on the bi-amp and just bi-wire the RB-1590 to LSiM 707s.
Sounds like anything to try and bi-amp with mismatched gear will just complicate the signal path.
http://www.marchandelec.com/electronic-crossovers.html
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4?lang=en&gclid=CjwKCAjwnLjVBRAdEiwAKSGPIzErfSCBTp4IWqlWx4vmttiYG0YeVmURz1bdJOSAVIuE1HllR82f0BoCKtMQAvD_BwE- Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
- Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
- Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
- Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
- Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
- Orphans Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
- Daughter's Bedroom 1-2.0 TBD Martin Logan Forte | Roku TV
- Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
- Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
- Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
- Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
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There's a lot to be said for doin' crossovers in the low power (small signal) domain rather than post-power amplifier (i.e., in or just ahead of the loudspeakers). Why spend watts just cookin' chokes, capacitors and (power) resistors, huh? Ever ask yourself that?
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Why bi-amp to begin with ? The lsim series is easy to drive, you don't need massive power. I might try just using the Mac on them.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
The Mac is currently powering them. Want to try more power. I think @Joey_V tried the rb-1590 and it wasn’t bad, just not as good as his Classé.
- Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
- Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
- Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
- Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
- Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
- Orphans Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
- Daughter's Bedroom 1-2.0 TBD Martin Logan Forte | Roku TV
- Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
- Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
- Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
- Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
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You dont like the RB1590?
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
@Joey_V quite the contrary, I’m breaking them in and enjoying what I’m hearing so far. I was missing out on serious bass with the MA’s amp section. I’m hearing stuff I did not hear before with the same LSiM 707 but fed with some amp of authority. Mind you there is no eq on my pre and I’m listening to music I’m familiar with.
I’m quite shocked actually...I thought power didn’t matter at the volumes I listen to, normally between 40-45% at times 50% with classical on the MAs volume knob.- Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
- Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
- Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
- Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
- Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
- Orphans Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
- Daughter's Bedroom 1-2.0 TBD Martin Logan Forte | Roku TV
- Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
- Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
- Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
- Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
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If you are going to biamp, external xo is required if you really want the results biamping offers. Short cuts just (no external xo) won't do anything worth while. As far as pro gear goes the rane isn't bad for the price but if you can go to the "home audio" version's ( and they are not cheep) it is well worth it. When done correctly it can truly be amazing.just get one with "gain controls for outputs and balancing is easy.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
Thanks, I tried it out without a line level xo or gain control. Results where not impressive. I was looking at this http://www.marchandelec.com/xm66-electronic-crossover.html or just giving up entirely and just run the RB-1590 alone.
- Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
- Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
- Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
- Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
- Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
- Orphans Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
- Daughter's Bedroom 1-2.0 TBD Martin Logan Forte | Roku TV
- Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
- Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
- Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
- Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
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I have used the Rane 22b with decent results, however when I found the vintage nakamichi EC100/PS100 (you can stick a fork I'm my ....well) they turn up on flee bay every once in a while when they do grab one! Usually around a duce and as long as the freq. Control is in good shape everything else can be replaced and upgraded (caps and the like) for less than 150.00. Best bang for the buck I have found or even heard of. Simple precise, accurate and dead quiet.
Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
Consider the DBX Driverack PA. I admit making or modding cables w/XLRs on one end or the other is a bit of a hassle. But the all XO choices & options, 5-band full PEQ, 31 band GEQ, and time alignment more than make up for it.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Consider the DBX Driverack PA. I admit making or modding cables w/XLRs on one end or the other is a bit of a hassle. But the all XO choices & options, 5-band full PEQ, 31 band GEQ, and time alignment more than make up for it.
www.markertek.com is your friend
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I'm in the camp of its suited for professional gear with dedicated xo, but, better to stay away from in home use.
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I don’t get the point (or points) that either of you are attempting.mhardy6647 wrote: »One may buy 'hybrid' cables and/or adaptors. Easy-peasy, although 'standardization' of XLR* connectors is a little hit or miss historically.I'm in the camp of its suited for professional gear with dedicated xo, but, better to stay away from in home use.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
I don’t get the point (or points) that either of you are attempting.mhardy6647 wrote: »One may buy 'hybrid' cables and/or adaptors. Easy-peasy, although 'standardization' of XLR* connectors is a little hit or miss historically.I'm in the camp of its suited for professional gear with dedicated xo, but, better to stay away from in home use.
My point(s).
1. you can make or buy cables (or adaptor plugs) to interface home and pro equipment.
2. The standard wiring of the three conductors in XLR cables wasn't standardized until surprisingly recently.
http://www.clarkwire.com/pinoutxlrbalanced.htm
I would absolutely consider the dBx or even a Behringer active XO. There is nothing wrong with pro grade equipment like this (although the quality of the Behringer stuff is somewhat cheezy). Lots of folks who know what they are doing use an admixture of consumer and pro equipment -- depends on what one is trying to accomplish and knowing what one's getting oneself into.
The semi-vintage Electrovoice active crossovers (which are highly configurable albeit not without effort!) are highly sought after in some circles -- recent prices thereof reflect this, too, unfortunately.
Full disclosure: the standard "line level" signals for pro audio are slightly different than the consumer standard. Practically speaking, most equipment, IMO/IME can be interconnected without issues related to signal overload (most hardware has an input attenuator somewhere in the chain).
(if you look closely, you'll see some pro components mixed in with this state-of-the-art "domestic" hifi -- one of the best I've heard/experienced, in fact).
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I have used pro xo''s, have several friends that have used them with decent results, myself included. Having said that they just don't sound as good! They (xo's) are not built for " high quality" sound reproduction. IMHO too much stuff inside not related too or needed for separation of freq. " stuff for room equalization and delays and such" good for venue sound but not necessary (or needed ) imho for home use. If you want room eq''s , buy a good eq but you don't need it in your xo as it just more stuff to introduce noise and distortion. When it comes to xo''s simpler the better. I prefer the nak as it is "dead quiet" does what it is suppose to do and leaves everything else the hell alone, plus not much more money and can be upgraded and updated for less than a buck or so. I have heard multi thousand dollar modern units that weren't a major improvement at 10 times the price.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
I don't disagree with any of the above (FWIW), being a less is more kind of guy myself. The commercial XOs are chockablocks with IC opamps -- not exactly a recipe for the highest-fi, but they ain't junk (well -- many of them ain't junk) and there is something to be said for a bit of flexibility. No, we don't need limiters and compressors, but adjustable delay could be a useful tool, as could be variable XO slopes and frequencies for all passbands. Some of the active XOs offer such amenities. If nothing else, a flexible active XO could be a good modeling tool.
RTA and EQ (nowadays in the digital domain, so D/A and A/D neeed for analog sources) is fine -- but if one wants to biamp, one still needs some flavor of XO (active or passive).
Zero experience with the Nakamichi in question - I don't doubt that it works well but does it do what the OP needs -- i.e., does it permit the XO frequencies that the OP is gonna need?
Is the slope adjustable? Looks like not -- what is the slope? Looks like maybe 6 dB/octave and the same XO frequency for low and high pass.
Believe me -- I have nothing against first order (ahem - given that I am currently running all-first order, albeit passive XOs on the Frankenaltecs), but I don't know what the OP wants or needs in terms of XO topology. It could be just what the doctor ordered, though.
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I don't disagree with above. I'm fortunate in having speakers specifically designed to be biamped from the manufacturer and when the "biamp switch" is ingaged it goes to a "different "internal xo optimizing the slope the manufacturer preferred in there speakers so there's more to it than just the crossove.r start with speakers optimized for it by the manufacturer is a good start I have tried it with many different speakers and never got the results I have with my current pair.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
mhardy6647 wrote: »Is the slope adjustable? Looks like not -- what is the slope? Looks like maybe 6 dB/octave and the same XO frequency for low and high pass.
Even the Marchand Electronics, are either based on a 24db/48db slope. building a xover network is based on design i.e. Marchand Electronics is based on the Linkwitz-Riley network
2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Ahh, that explains things.
Some of us are more bottom up.
DSC_9780 (3) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
DSC_9976 (3) by Mark Hardy, on Flickr -
I don’t get the point (or points) that either of you are attempting.mhardy6647 wrote: »One may buy 'hybrid' cables and/or adaptors. Easy-peasy, although 'standardization' of XLR* connectors is a little hit or miss historically.I'm in the camp of its suited for professional gear with dedicated xo, but, better to stay away from in home use.
My speakers come with an XO. When I ran band sound we use DBX's mostly, but, I've never found pro gear to be suited well to higher end home gear. I don't feel the trouble of trying to bi, or tri, amp home audio speakers beneficial. Don't know many speaker builders designing their speakers that way. -
Thanks for the tips but as @kharp1 mentioned I'll just skip the potential noise generating extra hops in the signal path.
I just went with a new PS Audio Stellar Gain Cell DAC and Analog Preamplifier to replace my Macintosh MA-5200. PS Audio was running a sweet trade-in deal on their website, $510 off and couldn't resist.
Now I'm in the market for a new Phono Pre... I'm thinking Schiit Mani- Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
- Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
- Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
- Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
- Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
- Orphans Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
- Daughter's Bedroom 1-2.0 TBD Martin Logan Forte | Roku TV
- Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
- Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
- Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
- Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
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My apologies to the OP for the thread hijack.
a BIG thanks for comprehensive, flame-free responses! Also Holy Guacamole on those pics!
When I switched to the DBX to handle LR tower processing duties, making full use of its Time Alignment feature I heard details from “Boston*” (and many others) that I’ve never heard before. A light touch of PEQ helps to further tame the infamous RTi A** series edgyness**.
* listened to thousands of times; on vinyl in 70s & 80s, CD thereafter.
** going active removed most
Check my sig and/or look for details in a new post in:
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/168616/audio-pro-ace-bass-subwoofer-b1-35-75-shipped#latest
or PM me on “a sub in each corner.”
Thanks for your indulgence. TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
I can offer what I think is the best possible reason to biamp, with active or passive crossovers.
Horses for courses.
* Midrange and treble amplification by single-ended, direct-heated triode. 45, 2A3, or 300B depending on loudspeaker sensitivity.
* Bass amplification with a top quality solid state amplifier (Perhaps a Nelson Pass product)
I would do it myself - except that I am too lazy and too cheap.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »I can offer what I think is the best possible reason to biamp, with active or passive crossovers.mhardy6647 wrote: »Horses for courses.mhardy6647 wrote: »Midrange and treble amplification by single-ended, direct-heated triode. 45, 2A3, or 300B depending on loudspeaker sensitivity.mhardy6647 wrote: »Bass amplification with a top quality solid state amplifier (Perhaps a Nelson Pass product)
*I would do it myself now except that I am too busy.
Looking toward to retiring by the end of next year.
Please wait till pm to click on the link I posted above. House population is over double the norm till ~ 3 pm tomorrow.
PS: Mark love your sig especially the physics, LOL
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Horses for courses is a British expression that means (at least to my understanding) use the right tool for the job.
Here's what Gurgle says:
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"Water seeks it's own level"Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
This darned thread has me looking at active crossovers on eBAY today...