Rectifier tube, which Mullard GZ34?

Joey_V
Joey_V Posts: 8,552
in 2 Channel Audio
Which Mullard GZ34 is the “good” one? I checked eBay and I found the price to range from $30 to $200 but I can’t tell which one is the good Mullard and I don’t like being fleeced by those crooks

I figured there were some tube gurus here that can shed light

Thanks!
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
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Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    @heiney9

    only thing I have is the made in Great Britain would be a tell tail sign, even that i'm unsure.
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,801
    The good one, as above, should be any actual British Mullard. These can come branded otherwise, such as the EICO branded Mullard in my (ahem) EICO ST-40.

    11083737235_9d2e713d04_b.jpgST40frontsanstop by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

    ^ As found on the scrap-metal pile of the Harvard (MA) town dump some years back. All tubes good and in working order. Why some schmuck left it for scrap metal (not even on the "Yankee Swap" pile) is a mystery for the ages. :|


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  • JuanR
    JuanR Posts: 718
    edited March 2018
    I use a Telefunken labeled (Mullard Made) GZ34 in my Cary Audio PH302 phono stage and to me it sounds the best. Probably because Telefunken had Mullard select these tubes for them (just a guess)...

    The next best Mulards in my opinion are the ones with the f31 date code (made from 1958-1962) , the f32 are later models (which are also very good by the way).
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mullard-GZ34-5AR4-1959-Fat-Base-f31-Tests-Strong/282876342454?epid=166829875&hash=item41dcbe70b6:g:qbsAAOSwxdtaoW5u

    The Creme of the Crop I hear are the Metal Based Mullards....but these are generally over $300+++

    Brent Jesse can explain more about them...
    http://www.audiotubes.com/audtube.htm

    I can let you try some out if you want so you can decide what works best for you...

    But I think you cant go wrong with the f31 or f32 date coded Mullards...

    Is this for the SLP-05?

    Juan
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,497
    edited March 2018
    IMO Holland made (Phillips) with double D getters are the best GZ34/5AR4. Either metal base (uber pricey) or Black base with metal base innards. My Holland made Black base with metal base innards were branded Mullard. GB manufactured Mullard are fine too.

    IIRC Brock (jokingly AKA the tube raider) :) got a couple of them from me when I sold the 5AR4 gear.

    Pictures and descriptions...

    http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo GZ34/GZ34.htm
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    IMO Holland made (Phillips) with double D getters are the best GZ34/5AR4. Either metal base (uber pricey) or Black base with metal base innards. My Holland made Black base with metal base innards were branded Mullard. GB manufactured Mullard are fine too.

    IIRC Brock (jokingly AKA the tube raider) :) got a couple of them from me when I sold the 5AR4 gear.

    Pictures and descriptions...

    http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo GZ34/GZ34.htm

    I still have those in my stash for a rainy day :D .

    Earlier the better. I'll look at which ones I have. I have 3 (2) from 1971 and (1) from 1961 (fat base f31 code), IIRC. They are a bit different construction. The 1971's are RCA label but "B" codes for Blackburn England (f32 code).

    There are up to 7 variations of the Great Britain GZ34. If you're not going to spend the coin for the metal base, The earlier fat base GB ones are excellent and last forever (literally) there is no current GZ34 that even comes close to the tone or longevity of the Great Britain or Holland made tubes.

    Fat base f31 series is a great one produced from 58-62 and like the name the base is slightly fatter than the later series. Make sure it will fit in your case opening.

    f32 series were from about 63-75.

    So to recap for Mullard look for the fat base and build code f31 in the first line. Or the later series with the standard base build code f32, but the earlier the better, IMO.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited March 2018
    TubeWorld used to have photo's of the various GB GZ34 side by side showing the visuals. They don't anymore.

    The edge of the plates are either smooth, have 3 notches, 5 notches or 7 notches or are smooth and copper looking. IIRC, (going strictly on memory) smooth, smooth copper, 3 notches, 5 notches, 7 notches are the order to get them in from earlier to later.

    Can't comment too much on the sound differences because the amp I used them in was a small 10wpc integrated in my office rig. It seemed to me the earlier fat base had a bit deeper tone. Honestly, you can't go wrong with any of them. They sound great and last forever and ever if not abused.

    There are reports of lots of Fender guitar amps and Dynaco amps from the 60's still running the original GZ34 rectifier.
    Post edited by heiney9 on
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited March 2018
    Here's a photo (for reference) to show the date code and it is later because it has 7 notches on the plate edge and the one on the left has the smooth copper edge. Unfortunately this seller is out of stock currently.

    Also most if not all true GB GZ34's will have a hole in the guide pin. Only exception being the very early ones, IIRC.

    gz34+006.JPG
    Post edited by heiney9 on
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited March 2018
    JuanR wrote: »
    I use a Telefunken labeled (Mullard Made) GZ34 in my Cary Audio PH302 phono stage and to me it sounds the best. Probably because Telefunken had Mullard select these tubes for them (just a guess)...

    The next best Mulards in my opinion are the ones with the f31 date code (made from 1958-1962) , the f32 are later models (which are also very good by the way).
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mullard-GZ34-5AR4-1959-Fat-Base-f31-Tests-Strong/282876342454?epid=166829875&hash=item41dcbe70b6:g:qbsAAOSwxdtaoW5u

    The Creme of the Crop I hear are the Metal Based Mullards....but these are generally over $300+++

    Brent Jesse can explain more about them...
    http://www.audiotubes.com/audtube.htm

    I can let you try some out if you want so you can decide what works best for you...

    But I think you cant go wrong with the f31 or f32 date coded Mullards...

    Is this for the SLP-05?

    Juan

    No one has really been able to 100% confirm Telefunken made their own GZ34. Most are Great Britain made which TFK then labeled. If TFK made a GZ34 it's a very rare beast. If you are buying European GZ34 it's either made by Great Britain or Holland. America made the 5AR4 and only a few companies made those for everyone as well.

    Labels don't mean a lot when determining a tubes origin. It's all about the codes and recognizing construction cues.

    I agree the f31 or f32 Great Britain made tubes are excellent choices

    Post edited by heiney9 on
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    Of the few tube sellers I frequent. Brent Jesse is excellent, but pricey.

    I've never bought from this guy, but I've heard good things about him. He has a couple in stock.

    http://tctubes.com/5AR4-GZ34-tubes.aspx
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    How about a Philip's Miniwatt "Brown base" from Holland 1960 ?
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,289
    I had a great experience with Brent Jesse, highly recommend talking to him!
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    voltz wrote: »
    How about a Philip's Miniwatt "Brown base" from Holland 1960 ?

    Sure, if it has the correct coding to be from Holland. Both the GB and Holland made ones are great.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    I prefer the 58 (f31) sittard Holland in my 05 over the f32 Mullard. Seemed to have better balance, soundstage, and an overall smoother sound. Both Tubes are labeled amperex with the bugle boy tooting away. The Holland tube was NOS the Mullard is used, and tests as new.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

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  • megasat16
    megasat16 Posts: 3,521
    edited March 2018
    For you, Joey! Don't skimp and go straight to metal base Amperex / Mullard / Siemens /Adzam /Philips 5AR4 (GZ34) only. Should stamped TV2 57E on the base. dhdokrd9tqcp.jpg
    Post edited by megasat16 on
    Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
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  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    megasat16 wrote: »
    For you, Joey! Don't skimp and go straight to metal base Amperex / Mullard / Siemens /Adzam /Philips 5AR4 (GZ34) only. Should stamped TV2 57E on the base. dhdokrd9tqcp.jpg

    Good luck finding one. And if you can they are in the 3-400 range. Which in my opinion isn’t worth the money.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

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  • stones89
    stones89 Posts: 229
    edited March 2018
    I get my tubes from Andy at Vintage Tube Service. I use a Mullard Big Base GZ34 1950's version in my Allnic Phono stage. A big jump in sound, by adding a rectifier tube! That's why I keep coming back to this insane hobby!
    Basis 2200 Signature, Vector 4, Transfiguration Proteus, Allnic H3000, Meridian 200/563, CJ ET5, McIntosh 501's, Thiel CS6, 3.6, Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl, MIT EVO, KS/Wywires PC's
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