Can I use a 2 amp wall wart in place of a 1 amp?
afterburnt
Posts: 7,892
Comments
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You have to check the item that you're powering. It will have the power rating that is recommended. I've used higher current AC adapters on stuff, but only slightly higher than what was recommended, maybe 10-20 percent.
Double the input current is risky, IMHO.Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
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Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
That's not how current works...
As long as the polarity and voltage are correct, the current capacity of the wall wart doesn't matter as long as it is at least the minimum required by the item being powered. It's just like amplification: an amp can be capable of 30A to your speakers, but it's not supplying it all the time, only when needed. -
That's not how current works...
As long as the polarity and voltage are correct, the current capacity of the wall wart doesn't matter as long as it is at least the minimum required by the item being powered. It's just like amplification: an amp can be capable of 30A to your speakers, but it's not supplying it all the time, only when needed.
I was thinking that it is the current draw that's important not the spec output of the wart. Is this true? -
Correct. You pull amps, you push volts.
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Yes, but of course, if some situation were to develop that would cause the current demand of the powered device to soar, the higher current (higher power, since P = E * I and E is constant) wall wart might cook the device if it could deliver more current than the device could handle.
In such a case, think of your 1A wall wart as a fuse. Suppose a failure of some kind in the powered device causes it to try to draw 10A. The little wall wart will deliver all the power it can, either limiting the current available to the device or the wall wart itself will die trying.
A 2A supply will do the same, but will deliver 2A (maybe 100% excess of the device's rating, or more) until one or the other dies.
Not trying to use scare tactics -- heck, I'd do what the OP's proposing if I had the hardware & the inclination! -- but thought it worthy of mention.
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Very true Doc, my posts above are assuming everything behind the wall wart is working properly and remains stable. It would be ideal that the unit in question is fused at 1A after the wall wart. Any failure would then blow the fuse and save the power supply.
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This is the first time in my life (53+ years) that I have ever heard the phrase "wall wart".
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Not uncommon: https://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/60246/wall-wartThis is the first time in my life (53+ years) that I have ever heard the phrase "wall wart". -
I think that Viking64 lives -- how to put this diplomatically? -- a little off the beaten path.
Even compared to me.
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I too admit never heard of an AC adapter referred to as a wall wart.
But consider me now edified! Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD. -
I heard it before and they don't let me out much.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »I think that Viking64 lives -- how to put this diplomatically? -- a little off the beaten path.
Even compared to me.
Actually, I have to disagree. I don't peruse stereo-related websites, but in the grand scheme of things, that isn't the "beaten path" as far as the internet in general goes. It seems most of the people here are in a niche area and are oblivious to most of what else is happening online.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »I think that Viking64 lives -- how to put this diplomatically? -- a little off the beaten path.
Even compared to me.
Actually, I have to disagree. I don't peruse stereo-related websites, but in the grand scheme of things, that isn't the "beaten path" as far as the internet in general goes. It seems most of the people here are in a niche area and are oblivious to most of what else is happening online.
wait! what? there is more than this out there ???
brain explosion..... -
wait! what? there is more than this out there ???
brain explosion.....
Settle down, Beatrice, or you might lose your earrings in the explosion.
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dagnabbit -
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Hanns likes em
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mhardy6647 wrote: »I think that Viking64 lives -- how to put this diplomatically? -- a little off the beaten path.
Even compared to me.
Actually, I have to disagree. I don't peruse stereo-related websites, but in the grand scheme of things, that isn't the "beaten path" as far as the internet in general goes. It seems most of the people here are in a niche area and are oblivious to most of what else is happening online.
The term came into wide/general use in the computer (laptop) and cell phone/portable audio realms -- video games, too. Consumer electronics went to outboard power supplies big time in the 1990s, and external transformers, which quickly came to be known as wall warts, proliferated. Laptop P/S, in the early days, were often called bricks -- I've got some pretty brick like Dell P/Ss around here, too.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »The term came into wide/general use in the computer (laptop) and cell phone/portable audio realms -- video games, too. Consumer electronics went to outboard power supplies big time in the 1990s, and external transformers, which quickly came to be known as wall warts, proliferated. Laptop P/S, in the early days, were often called bricks -- I've got some pretty brick like Dell P/Ss around here, too.
I've heard the term "brick" quite a bit. Never "wall wart", though. And it's not like I am denying its existence. HAHAHA -
That's good -- although wall warts are just a theory...
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YES. As stated, as long as the current available meets the minimum necessary. Current is "potential flow" not something that is supplied at a fixed rate.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
