Speaker port noise bass trap
Polkaguy58
Posts: 352
I bought a tall set of SVS rear ported towers a while back and because of my lack of real estate in my listening room, have to keep the speakers about 6" from the rear plaster wall.
This creates unwanted boominess from those twin ports.
I tried the supplied foam bungs and got some relief by using just one set, but the bass sounded unatural to me, like something was missing.
I had a set of beige carpet pads that I'd picked up at Home depot to place on my L shaped workbench to lay guitars on and was curious if they might quell the port reflections off of the wall by placing them behind the SVS's and they did.
When I mentioned this to a friend of mine in the recording buisness, he told me that they would work even better if I could get some air space behind the carpet.
I ended up using a couple of 1/2" thick slats, which I drilled three hole through and affixed the top of each carpet to the wall, through the slats, so that they draped downward.
This gave a small space between.
Damn, if that didn't tighten up my bass !
It killed the boom enough, where I could even drop the sub's volume, because it didn't have to mask the boom coming off of my walls anymore.
The carpets match the wall color, so they don't stick out visually.
Total cost for this solved problem..........about 10 bucks.
This creates unwanted boominess from those twin ports.
I tried the supplied foam bungs and got some relief by using just one set, but the bass sounded unatural to me, like something was missing.
I had a set of beige carpet pads that I'd picked up at Home depot to place on my L shaped workbench to lay guitars on and was curious if they might quell the port reflections off of the wall by placing them behind the SVS's and they did.
When I mentioned this to a friend of mine in the recording buisness, he told me that they would work even better if I could get some air space behind the carpet.
I ended up using a couple of 1/2" thick slats, which I drilled three hole through and affixed the top of each carpet to the wall, through the slats, so that they draped downward.
This gave a small space between.
Damn, if that didn't tighten up my bass !
It killed the boom enough, where I could even drop the sub's volume, because it didn't have to mask the boom coming off of my walls anymore.
The carpets match the wall color, so they don't stick out visually.
Total cost for this solved problem..........about 10 bucks.
Comments
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Nice tip, thanks!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I should add, that my buddy said that an inch of space would be better, but 1/2" slats is what I had at the moment and didn't want to have to drive thicker, longer screws through double that depth.
As I understand it, the low frequencies are supposed to pass through the material, reflect off of the wall and dissipate against the back wall of the material.
I'm considering making some out of acoustic foam, placed within a picture frame and maybe hung from hooks behind the speaker. -
Awesome how the simple, inexpensive "tricks" work well.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
