Marantz sr-6011.....Polk S60.......can I use 4 channels to power 2 towers?

MackMurder
MackMurder Posts: 27
edited November 2017 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
Ok so the marantz 9.2 channel amp has like 110 wrms @8 ohms per channel

I know the S60s can be bi-wired or bi-amped

Bi amp means more power from 2 different amps. Adds better sound and more detailed?

My question is could I use two front channels for the lows and 2 surround channels for the highs? For a total of 220 wrms per tower? Or will that **** up my amp.and or speakers
Home theater:
-Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
-Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
-Tech 1200's
-Polk S60 Towers

Car Audio:
-4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
-Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
-hertz 1000watt 4 channel
-hertz mille component speakers
-hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
-370amp mechman alternator
-2xs power 3300 amp batteries
-2/0 gauge ofc everything
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,645
    It doesn't work like that. You cannot bi-amp from a piece of audio gear that has a single shared power supply as does every AVR made. Pure marketing hype.....otherwise known as BS.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • MackMurder
    MackMurder Posts: 27
    awsome thanks F1. Bi wiring would be the option for me tho correct? With some good wire as opposed to the stock material Polk provides?
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
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  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    Bi-wiring, running 2 sets of cables, from 2 different out puts, to each individual's binding post on your speakers, can be done with most AVR's. Most people hear no difference from using this method or a single cable run.

    More people hear a difference when they remove the factory jumpers and replace it with jumpers made with good quality wire.
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    rpf65 wrote: »
    More people hear a difference when they remove the factory jumpers and replace it with jumpers made with good quality wire.

    Yes, just do this. Ideally try to make he jumpers from the same wire as the cable. Blue jeans cable has some nice affordable options.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1     Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • MackMurder
    MackMurder Posts: 27
    Done and done
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter