Speaker Stand Suggestions for LSiM 703

rburgess714

Back where I started, no stands. I ended up sending the sanus 22" back, thought they would be a little too short. Increasing my budget to around 2 bills.

Upstatemax

If you feel like stretching the budget, I really like these stands for the $:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=TGHS&variation=24BLK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvmb8ZPa1wIVjUsNCh2ydQYyEAQYAiABEgI2iPD_BwE

msg

Those look nice.

teekay0007

Upstatemax wrote: »

If you feel like stretching the budget, I really like these stands for the $:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=TGHS&variation=24BLK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvmb8ZPa1wIVjUsNCh2ydQYyEAQYAiABEgI2iPD_BwE

Those show only being available in 24" tall - still not tall enough. I think you would want to go 28"-30" tall. My Sanus Ultimate Foundation 28" are perfect height with the LSiM703s, but a little higher would have worked well too. Measure before ordering stands. You want the tweeters at, or a little above ear level in your usual listening position.

rburgess714

Upstatemax wrote: »

If you feel like stretching the budget, I really like these stands for the $:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=TGHS&variation=24BLK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvmb8ZPa1wIVjUsNCh2ydQYyEAQYAiABEgI2iPD_BwE

yes, they do...damn rabbit hole

rburgess714

teekay0007 wrote: »

Upstatemax wrote: »

If you feel like stretching the budget, I really like these stands for the $:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=TGHS&variation=24BLK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvmb8ZPa1wIVjUsNCh2ydQYyEAQYAiABEgI2iPD_BwE

Those show only being available in 24" tall - still not tall enough. I think you would want to go 28"-30" tall. My Sanus Ultimate Foundation 28" are perfect height with the LSiM703s, but a little higher would have worked well too. Measure before ordering stands. You want the tweeters at, or a little above ear level in your usual listening position.

I think 26" or 28" would be best, most of what I see has a 6x6.5 top plate which makes me a little nervous. Thinking bigger top would be better but there are not a lot options.

simm

I’m using the Sanus steel foundation stands. I believe they are 28” high and are the perfect height for my room. I used them with Boston Accoustic VR-M60 before the 703’s and have no complaints. I filled them with sand shortly after I bought them.

F1nut

rburgess714 wrote: »

teekay0007 wrote: »

Upstatemax wrote: »

If you feel like stretching the budget, I really like these stands for the $:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=TGHS&variation=24BLK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvmb8ZPa1wIVjUsNCh2ydQYyEAQYAiABEgI2iPD_BwE

Those show only being available in 24" tall - still not tall enough. I think you would want to go 28"-30" tall. My Sanus Ultimate Foundation 28" are perfect height with the LSiM703s, but a little higher would have worked well too. Measure before ordering stands. You want the tweeters at, or a little above ear level in your usual listening position.

I think 26" or 28" would be best, most of what I see has a 6x6.5 top plate which makes me a little nervous. Thinking bigger top would be better but there are not a lot options.

Skylan stands are available with custom sized top and bottom plates as well as height. They cost more than your stated amount, but are well worth the money. They must be mass loaded.

rburgess714

F1nut wrote: »

rburgess714 wrote: »

teekay0007 wrote: »

Upstatemax wrote: »

If you feel like stretching the budget, I really like these stands for the $:

http://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=TGHS&variation=24BLK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvmb8ZPa1wIVjUsNCh2ydQYyEAQYAiABEgI2iPD_BwE

Those show only being available in 24" tall - still not tall enough. I think you would want to go 28"-30" tall. My Sanus Ultimate Foundation 28" are perfect height with the LSiM703s, but a little higher would have worked well too. Measure before ordering stands. You want the tweeters at, or a little above ear level in your usual listening position.

I think 26" or 28" would be best, most of what I see has a 6x6.5 top plate which makes me a little nervous. Thinking bigger top would be better but there are not a lot options.

Skylan stands are available with custom sized top and bottom plates as well as height. They cost more than your stated amount, but are well worth the money. They must be mass loaded.

They look nice but yes they are considerably more, 350 plus. It sounds like many have used the sanus without fail but the 6 x 6 plate seems too small.

Hermitism

Jesse, for small top plates, could you cut a thick piece of wood the same size and shape of the speaker and screw it to the top plate without undermining the coupling/decoupling effect. I think a 3/4" or 1" thick piece of wood cut with a curve to match the shape of the 703's would look attractive. Never can remember which is the proper term for stands. We want to "couple" the speaker to the floor, correct?

Upstatemax

rburgess714 wrote: »

I think 26" or 28" would be best, most of what I see has a 6x6.5 top plate which makes me a little nervous. Thinking bigger top would be better but there are not a lot options.

Those Target Audio HS stands do come in a 28” height.

The top plate is plenty large. I’m regularly listening to a set of Totem Element Fire speakers that have been sitting on Target HS stands for quite awhile.

F1nut

Hermitism wrote: »

Jesse, for small top plates, could you cut a thick piece of wood the same size and shape of the speaker and screw it to the top plate without undermining the coupling/decoupling effect. I think a 3/4" or 1" thick piece of wood cut with a curve to match the shape of the 703's would look attractive. Never can remember which is the proper term for stands. We want to "couple" the speaker to the floor, correct?

Sure, you could make your top plate, but the 6x6 would work just fine. I've got some large speakers on 6x6 plates, no issues whatsoever.

Most say to decouple the speakers from the stands and couple the stands to the floor. However, there are some that believe coupling the speakers to the stands and decoupling the stands or floor standing speakers from the floor works better. Personally, I've found decoupling from the floor to yield poor results.

Hermitism

F1nut wrote: »

Most say to decouple the speakers from the stands and couple the stands to the floor. However, there are some that believe coupling the speakers to the stands and decoupling the stands or floor standing speakers from the floor works better.

Now you're just trying to confuse me on purpose! Payback for all the dumb questions I've had to ask over the years! I was as green as they come when I joined here. Now I'm more of a chartreuse shade.

Since we are on the subject, I've noticed a lot of stands come with parts so you have two or three different methods to mount the speakers to the top plate... Mini spikes, rubber knobs, and some way to actually bolt the speakers to the top plate. Would the spikes couple the speakers to the stands, and the rubber knobs decouple? One more question, since I bought my LSiM speakers used, they all have round rubber knobs on the bottoms, those are stock aren't they? The seller didn't add those?

msg

Most of the speakers I've bought come bare nekkid. My 703s don't have anything on them, and sit on a top plate much smaller than the bottom face of the speaker. The top plate on these Pangea DS300 28s is something like 6 x 8-1/2. I stuck little rubber feet on the top plate, and sit the speaker on them. (The DS300 is discontinued, btw, and replaced with the DS400 which is supposed to sport some different pillar attachment hardware and thicker top and bottom plates, iinm.)

I went with a loose version of the decouple-speaker, couple-stand-to-floor method, though the feet I used are pretty firm, so I'm not sure they're really decoupling. I've considered using pads, but have to wonder whether they absorb cabinet vibration/suck sound.

If I were doing this again, I'd probably go with a smaller rubber foot for something more pin-pointy, like a small 3M bumpon you can find on Amazon, and/or experiment with something softer, maybe some small squares of Sorbothane instead. I do like that these feet are fairly grippy, so I know the speaker's not going anywhere.

gce

I have my 703's on Sanus steel foundation stands filled with sand. The speakers sit on rubber knobs and I have the stands spiked to the floor. Works the best for me.

Emlyn

The 26 inch tall version of the Sanus Steel Foundations stands works well for me.

rburgess714

Okay, the coupling and decoupling concepts are a bit advanced for me at this point and I have never really thought about it but is does make some sense.

However, I hear that most have stands that top plates are much smaller than their speaker and have no issues. Appreciate the feedback and suggestions.

F1nut

Would the spikes couple the speakers to the stands, and the rubber knobs decouple?

Correct

One more question, since I bought my LSiM speakers used, they all have round rubber knobs on the bottoms, those are stock aren't they? The seller didn't add those?

I believe Polk supplies rubber feet with those speakers.

sgmsmg

Here you go:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pangea-Audio-LS300-Speaker-Stand-Pair-28-Inch/122830053338?hash=item1c993ddfda:g:nm8AAOSwnCFaGs4m

Seems like a good deal?

tonyb

I bought the 300 Pangea stands from Amazon the other day. 32 INCHES . I sat on the couch and measured how high my ears were, which was about 40 inches. Take into consideration how tall your speakers are and how much above that stand the tweeters will be.

24 inches will be too low, 28 might work depending, but in the event you ever move to floorstanders, you can't use those stands in the surround positions because the speakers won't be high enough to get over the back of a couch.

Using a lower height for stands can be done if your willing to tilt those speakers up in the front some, which would be hard to do if the top plate didn't cover almost all of the speaker your using.

That said, I don't always subscribe to the tweeter at ear level thing. It really depends on the speaker, it's design and dispersion. Most times I actually like the tweeter slightly above my ear level, go figure.

Hermitism

@F1nut

Jesse, I haven't seen any pictures of the tops of the columns under the top plate on the UF stands. Are they hard to fill? Do I want the smallest size shot I can find? # 10 shot? So far the best deal I can find is 25 pound bags for $39.99/free shipping.

I checked with a few people that are into reloading. They've been going to tire stores and getting used lead tire weights and melting them down into bullets. They said that tire shops get bottom dollar for the weights at recycling centers. But I figured .22 caliber bullets would be too large, which is the smallest size they had made for themselves. If you had stands with large enough openings, that would be an extremely cheap way to add weight, by dumping a bunch of old tire weights from a tire store with some sand to fill in the gaps.

F1nut

Forget the tire weights, you'll never get them in the tubes. Even to get shot in them I had to drill larger holes. You'll see what I mean.

rburgess714

Ended up with the Pangea DS 400s. Loaded with 50lbs of sand per stand these are over 75lbs each. Very solid, no leakage and the 28" seem to be the perfect height for me. Great match for the 703s which seem to be getting better by they day.

Hermitism

rburgess714 wrote: »

Ended up with the Pangea DS 400s. Loaded with 50lbs of sand per stand these are over 75lbs each. Very solid, no leakage and the 28" seem to be the perfect height for me. Great match for the 703s which seem to be getting better by they day.

Congrats on the stands. You should post some pics with the 703's on top!

F1nut wrote: »

Forget the tire weights, you'll never get them in the tubes. Even to get shot in them I had to drill larger holes. You'll see what I mean.

My box came this morning. My lead tire weight idea really was laughable, OMG!

Viking64

Those resistors in that box are the biggest I have ever seen!

tonyb

I have the Pangea 300's, very weighty stands even when not filled. Congrats man.

Hermitism

@F1nut

Since they put fill holes on both sides of the columns, did you feel the need to dynamat over the fill holes on the bottoms to prevent leakage or just let the shot/sand fill the small cavity at the end? A cork gasket is used on the tops of the columns, but nothing for the bottoms. I like msg's idea for blue loctite on the bottom bolts in his "Pangea Speaker Stands Build" thread. So thought I better ask first. Shot doesn't come till Monday.

rburgess714

Couple of Pics.. pretty darn pleased with these.

Clipdat

Nice house! Stands look great.

F1nut

Hermitism wrote: »

@F1nut

Since they put fill holes on both sides of the columns, did you feel the need to dynamat over the fill holes on the bottoms to prevent leakage or just let the shot/sand fill the small cavity at the end? A cork gasket is used on the tops of the columns, but nothing for the bottoms. I like msg's idea for blue loctite on the bottom bolts in his "Pangea Speaker Stands Build" thread. So thought I better ask first. Shot doesn't come till Monday.

I didn't use anything at the bottom. Those columns bolt down tight to the base.

To make filling easier I drilled holes at the bottom of the tear drops on the metal tube plate. Wrapping a piece of blue tape around the top of the tube when filling helps to keep stuff from spilling over.