Another Cap question

xschop
xschop Posts: 5,000
in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Anyone know the 3 different designations for these capacitors?
LL, ST, and DEW are listed in the service manual for an Onkyo I will resto-mod this winter project.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,644
    LL should be electrolytic

    ST should be mica

    DEW should be metalized mylar
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Ok. Thanks for the fast reply F1. Do I need to change the ST's and DEW's with same type or is there an upgrade?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,644
    In reality, you shouldn't need to change the silver mica or mylar as they don't go bad.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    Thanks F1, I appreciate your insight and input as always.
    I took a peak inside and see about half the amount of electrolytics. Half the Mouser bill right hehe...


    This should indicate common ground correct?

    uds7a2ax5hh3.jpg

    I drilled the factory thread rivets out and installed the new gold posts. I like the fact they stand out a little further...

    8dpmugh9kkhu.jpg
    79n429ay6cgd.jpg
    n19sjtfzr4eb.jpg


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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    Onkyo A-8017 is the model. I cant find any info mentioning common ground. Anyone know for sure? I thought I read somewhere about shared speaker grounds between Speakers A and B were considered common ground?

    The factory control knobs are machined aluminum then anodized...Then de-anodized by yours truly....
    knnlluob90g5.jpg
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,553
    Receivers are common ground
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I understand the receiver rule, but this one does not have a tuner. It says INTEGRA on it.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,553
    Onkyo's upper line. 99.999999999% feel common ground.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Silver Mica caps are exceptional for Audio. Don't change them
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    xschop wrote: »

    This should indicate common ground correct?

    uds7a2ax5hh3.jpg

    With both black posts connected it is definitely common ground.

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Thanks for confirming WMG. I just want to get everything ordered in one fell swoop. Santa's getting an early list this year, because in reality, Mouser will deliver by Christmas '18.

    In the first pic, the factory lead wires to terminals are a single wire between 20-22 guage and under magnifying glass looks like solid silver, but hard to tell at the clipped end. Question is, is it worth change to 18g multistrand OFC?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,553
    Me if i was to change it I'd stay solid NOT multistranded.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    Thought I would ask since I have all colors on hand and it just seems odd that that small solid wire will be feeding 12g speaker cables.

    Can someone also confirm the process of DC offset check. After controls all set to ZERO, are the DMM leads at speaker terminals with speaker selector switch on or off?
    The Audiokarma site is vague about this.
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  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,629
    xschop wrote: »
    Thought I would ask since I have all colors on hand and it just seems odd that that small solid wire will be feeding 12g speaker cables.

    Can someone also confirm the process of DC offset check. After controls all set to ZERO, are the DMM leads at speaker terminals with speaker selector switch on or off?
    The Audiokarma site is vague about this.

    Speaker selector "on". Otherwise it would be measuring nothing.

    https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-DC-Offset

    This explains it fairly well. But if you need to adjust it is more tedious.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,644
    xschop wrote: »
    Thanks for confirming WMG. I just want to get everything ordered in one fell swoop. Santa's getting an early list this year, because in reality, Mouser will deliver by Christmas '18.

    In the first pic, the factory lead wires to terminals are a single wire between 20-22 guage and under magnifying glass looks like solid silver, but hard to tell at the clipped end. Question is, is it worth change to 18g multistrand OFC?

    Mouser doesn't sell better quality caps, etc.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    Santa has an account at Mouser and he likes Nichicon FG's. The gold-tone goes great with his sleigh and fills stockings lol.
    These have all factory Nichicon SE-M marked on them. the large ones are 15,000uf.
    I thought I was taking the reading wrong because I get 0.9mV on left channel and 2.0mV on right.... Not bad
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,553
    I've used the Nichicon fine golds where i couldn't get the kg muse. Elna Silmic II's are others i like
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    Ok. Ill check KG's too. IIRC that's what I had to go with on the Akai Main caps' 10000uf size.

    I like these Japanese units as far as ease of assembly and board locations.
    I tested the lamp leads at 16V DC so I ordered all red 24v LED 5mms...

    Decisions....
    The lettering does not appear to be countersunk like the Kenwood I recently did. So I'm thinking black face with brushed controls, large brushed feet and 1" thick brushed side panels...
    3v63a04lsahd.jpg

    Since the panel has nicks on sides, I'lll remove the glued on plastic side molds and mill off the alloy to match the factory case width....
    20pu3lod8tux.png


    Post edited by xschop on
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    The heat sink was easy to remove. 16 screws and it lifted right out. I cleaned fins and back sides of large transistors then applied fresh thermal paste....

    pr29xe8zgnox.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    These LEDs showed early. Another nice surprise that the factory grommets will hold them....

    z39h8pv833m3.jpg
    gvlyuuf23hqy.jpg
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  • oldschlpolkie
    oldschlpolkie Posts: 101
    Nice! I’m a big fan of the Integra stuff I have M504, M5060 amps, and DTR-7.1 receiver currently being used as a preamp.
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  • oldschlpolkie
    oldschlpolkie Posts: 101
    By the way I really liked the Kenwood receiver you did as well. I had the same model but gave it to my in laws.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    For the brief listening session I had before tear down, this one puts out a nicely balanced sound signature throughout the range.

    The LED install was a bit tedious but a success. I went ahead and ordered new mil spec grommets because a couple of these old holders were a crumble fest....

    s0pcb5lvvmzq.jpg


    Last question for the elctro-gurus....
    The speaker selector switch eyelets can allow for an extra 18g wire to be installed alongside the factory 20g single wire. Would this be an OK modification/addition?

    42akws4o5a86.jpg


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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Receivers are common ground
    Use a meter to verify, not opinions. The agony, other wise isn't worth it.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    edited November 2017
    xschop wrote: »
    In the first pic, the factory lead wires to terminals are a single wire between 20-22 guage and under magnifying glass looks like solid silver, but hard to tell at the clipped end. Question is, is it worth changing to 18g multistrand OFC?
    if it delivers power that ultimately feeds your speakers, use the biggest & the type you find practical. Your bass response will thank you.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited November 2017
    That worked out nicely....

    3wj19d0nrcp8.jpg

    I Reflowed all connections with Cardas Quad while I was in there. L&R A,B speaks' positive are White Blue Red Yellow from the switch. While their feed(green &brown) and grounds (black & grey) come from the relay which was easy to solder around....

    m3wszg70yzub.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Has anybody come up with a touch-up marker/paint for the black face receivers?
    Under bright lights the color seems to be dark charcoal.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,644
    Not to my knowledge. Black markers always have too much blue in them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 7,106
    Maybe matte black nail polish?
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  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    Viking64 wrote: »
    Maybe matte black nail polish?

    Maybe you can send him one of your partial bottles to try it out???
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

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