10A w/Peerless recap problem

adarrncsu
adarrncsu Posts: 6
in Vintage Speakers
I finally got around to rebuilding the crossovers. I had great success rebuilding crossovers for my 5Bs. However, after I finished the first 10A crossover all I get is tweeter; nothing from the woofers. I rechecked all connections and solder joints. Everything looks correct. Based on the schematic I visually double checked the 34uf cap and the 2.7ohm resistor joints. I have a digital multimeter, but I wouldn't know where to start or how to troubleshoot the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Sometimes in this case, a picture is going to get faster, more accurate diagnosis than staring at a diagram.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    This content has been removed.
  • adarrncsu
    adarrncsu Posts: 6
    I've attached a top view (the 2.5 ohm Mills is beneath the 12uf on right). Solder joints view. I didn't cut the leads off just in case my soldering sucked.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    This content has been removed.
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited September 2017
    The joint in the dead center of the second picture is cold for sure. The outside 10 o'clock joint may not be attached to anything as there is damage to the plate (nothing that can't be fixed). The flux is burnt indicating too much tip temp for too long. That is also apparent in the 10 o'clock joint since the plate is lifted off the board.

    Tinning the leads and plate holes separately can help eliminate excessive time on joint if you don't have the ability to control the tip temp.

    This brings up the idea to do a "how to solder" YouTube again... Just need more time to myself and that will never happen lol

    PS: this is in no way a dig at you, especially if you don't solder regularly, or ever. Just an evaluation of the results.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • adarrncsu
    adarrncsu Posts: 6
    Yep2 and FestYboy: Thanks for the great advice. This was just my second attempt at any soldering. I'll do the continuity test and re-work some of the joints.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    I see a lot of bad solder joints. What solder and soldering tool are you using?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • adarrncsu
    adarrncsu Posts: 6
    I use a 40 watt Weller(non-adjustable) and Bernzomatic 0.5 oz Rosin Core solder. I use a pretty wide nib. I did a continuity test and found two capacitors failed: 34 uf and the 12 uf after the 12fuf /2.5 ohm in parallel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    edited September 2017
    This content has been removed.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    edited September 2017
    This content has been removed.
  • adarrncsu
    adarrncsu Posts: 6
    I'll give that a try. Thanks
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    adarrncsu wrote: »
    I use a 40 watt Weller(non-adjustable) and Bernzomatic 0.5 oz Rosin Core solder. I use a pretty wide nib. I did a continuity test and found two capacitors failed: 34 uf and the 12 uf after the 12fuf /2.5 ohm in parallel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Get some Cardas solder and use a pointed tip. Remove the current solder with a vacuum type solder sucker first, then redo everything.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    This content has been removed.
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    ^ I agree with @Yep2 on that point. I have experience with both, an in this case I feel the braid will suit better and cost less to boot.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    A spring plunger is ten bucks and IMO, works way better than the braid, which IMO again is a royal PITA.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    This content has been removed.
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Yep2 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    A spring plunger is ten bucks and IMO, works way better than the braid, which IMO again is a royal PITA.

    Yeah, but you sleep upside down.

    Yeah, and gravity isn't just a good idea, it the law...
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    This content has been removed.
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Ha! And Jesse's full of it!!!! :D

    His garden must be amazing...
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0


    Get some Cardas solder and use a pointed tip. Remove the current solder with a vacuum type solder sucker first, then redo everything. [/quote]

    I second what F1dood wrote. Solen Wonder Solder is good too if you can find it.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter