Cylinders v cubes - SVS subs - which is better
jazznsoccer
Posts: 12
Another interesting puzzle...
As I research subs there is an interesting questions: Cubes v Cylinders.
Most subs come in cubes. However, in looking at the Hsu and the SVS sites, the manufacturers seem to favor the cylnders for performance.
I am looking at the following subs:
Sub (Opt 1) SVS 16-46 PCi $ 649 ea
Sub (Opt 2) Hsu VTF MK 2 $ 700 ea
Sub (Opt 3) SVS PB1 ISD $ 600 ea
I want to stay in/around this price range. My needs run towards audio so looking mostly for music performance. I plan on using LSi 15s for fronts, 9s for surround and the LSiC for the center.
However, subs are needed to fill in that HT experience. These subs all have gotten good reviews but they are hard to audition.
I'd go with the PCi 16-46 but wanted to hear if anyone had done a compare or had experience with owning them.
As I research subs there is an interesting questions: Cubes v Cylinders.
Most subs come in cubes. However, in looking at the Hsu and the SVS sites, the manufacturers seem to favor the cylnders for performance.
I am looking at the following subs:
Sub (Opt 1) SVS 16-46 PCi $ 649 ea
Sub (Opt 2) Hsu VTF MK 2 $ 700 ea
Sub (Opt 3) SVS PB1 ISD $ 600 ea
I want to stay in/around this price range. My needs run towards audio so looking mostly for music performance. I plan on using LSi 15s for fronts, 9s for surround and the LSiC for the center.
However, subs are needed to fill in that HT experience. These subs all have gotten good reviews but they are hard to audition.
I'd go with the PCi 16-46 but wanted to hear if anyone had done a compare or had experience with owning them.
Post edited by jazznsoccer on
Comments
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I would also consider the 20-39 PCi, best of both worlds. Corner load it and it will dig as low as you will need 99% of the time.
Have fun- GregAVR: Yamaha RX-V661
DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
BR: Samsung 1600
Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
Center: CS300
Sides: FX1000
Rears: RT/FX
Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
Power: Panamax MAX 5100
Remote: Harmony One -
Ditto on Greg's post. The 16-46 enclosure digs to 11-13 Hz in most rooms. In exchange for that super low extension, it gives up some maximum output capability in the more common bass regions. The 20-39PCi is a better choice in nearly all circumstances - the best combination of extension and output that SVS offers in the fixed tune sub."What we do in life echoes in eternity"
Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
Director - Technology and Customer Service
SVS -
Hi guys what if you already have a second sub like the rsw12 from klipsh that is strong at 35 hz would that pair up better with the 16 hz tuned svs. Thanx guys.Wish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper.
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Good question for Doc. I have heard that sometimes subs of even the same model will cancel out some of their output unless positioned next to each other and tuned carefully. I would venture a guess that 2 different subs would possibly not get along very well, although I'm sure someone has this setup and loves it. I personally have the 20-39pc+ and tuned it down to 16hz to see if I could tell any difference. I could not and think that for the majority of music/movies you will find it's overkill. Of course, we all like overkill! The 20-39 series is a great all around sub like some of the previous replys have stated.SDS-400, SDA-1B, SVS 20-39pc+, B&K Ref 50, Denon 2900
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Originally posted by kelley
The 20-39 series is a great all around sub like some of the previous replys have stated.
You got that right! Doc and others steered me to the 20-39 PC+, and I couldn't be happier.Mains: polkaudio RTi70's (bi-wired)
Center: polkaudio CSi40 (bi-wired)
Surrounds: polkaudio FXi30's
Rear Center: polkaudio CSi30
Sub: SVS 20-39 PC+
Receiver: ONKYO TX-SR600
Display: JVC HD-56G786
DVD Player: SONY DVP-CX985V
DVD Player: OPPO DV-981HD 1080p High Definition Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI
Remote: Logitech Harmony H688 -
I concur!AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
BR: Samsung 1600
Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
Center: CS300
Sides: FX1000
Rears: RT/FX
Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
Power: Panamax MAX 5100
Remote: Harmony One -
Looks cool too!AVR: Yamaha RX-V661
DVD: Yamaha DV-C6480
BR: Samsung 1600
Mains: Polk RT55 (bi-amped)
Center: CS300
Sides: FX1000
Rears: RT/FX
Subs: SVS 20-39 PC+ 12.3 & DIY SVS 12.2
Projector: Optoma HD70 w/ 106" Elite Screen
Power: Panamax MAX 5100
Remote: Harmony One -
Is there a doctor in the house?Wish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper.
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Originally posted by warviper
Hi guys what if you already have a second sub like the rsw12 from klipsh that is strong at 35 hz would that pair up better with the 16 hz tuned svs. Thanx guys.
Room location and attendent issues with room modes - peaks, nulls, standing waves - make it hard to really pin down. The only way to tell is with a sweep of the room at the listening position.
The short answer is that subs with different FR curves will reinforce each other at certain frequencies, and not at others, and usually the result is a pretty ragged FR curve.
"What we do in life echoes in eternity"
Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
Director - Technology and Customer Service
SVS -
Thanx Doc I feel beter already.:DWish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper.
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Originally posted by jazznsoccer
Another interesting puzzle...
I want to stay in/around this price range. My needs run towards audio so looking mostly for music performance. I plan on using LSi 15s for fronts, 9s for surround and the LSiC for the center.
LSi9s for fronts and 20-39 PC-Plus / PC-Ultra / premium cube (PB2+) with the money you saved going from the LSi15 to LSi9.