Big boys for sale

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Comments

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,414
    Congrats. I can second the advice about tow in, and raise you for getting them 3 to 4 feet from the side walls and 5 to 7 inches from the back wall.

    Is that a bunch of vintage Sansui in your stack of stuff?
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • Only had it hooked to the little Sansui temporarily. I have a Yamaha M2 and C4.
    My T-2 is in the shop along with getting the crossovers and wiring updated.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Shelby66 wrote: »
    Only had it hooked to the little Sansui temporarily. I have a Yamaha M2 and C4.
    My T-2 is in the shop along with getting the crossovers and wiring updated.

    Have you corrected the toe in issue? Are you using the SDA cable?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • la2vegas wrote: »
    Those look nice. Are they fully srock?
    They have the RDO upgrade and dynamat on the mids.

  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited September 2017
    Shelby66 wrote: »
    la2vegas wrote: »
    Those look nice. Are they fully srock?
    They have the RDO upgrade and dynamat on the mids.

    Are the magnets epoxied or powerlocked to prevent magnet shift? Dynomat on the passives?

    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    F1nut wrote: »
    Shelby66 wrote: »
    Only had it hooked to the little Sansui temporarily. I have a Yamaha M2 and C4.
    My T-2 is in the shop along with getting the crossovers and wiring updated.

    Have you corrected the toe in issue? Are you using the SDA cable?

    Guess I need to ask again.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Shelby66
    Shelby66 Posts: 17
    edited September 2017
    The cabinets are currently gutted, I will correct the toe in when I get them reassembled as soon as I get the crossovers back from my tech. I havent checked the passives yet for dynamat and I need to see if the magnets are epoxied. yes I have and use the SDA cable.
  • What's the secret to removing the passives? I have all the hex head screws removed and tried with my palm from inside but I dont want to pry and mess up the front edge. Also does anyone have a photo of one with dynamat applied? The magnets seem to be pretty stable on the mids but i could glue them still.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    You'll have push harder.....you may have tap them out with a dead blow hammer if really stuck, just have someone there to catch it when it pops free. If you find Mortite as the gasket, get rid of it and replace with proper speaker gasket material.

    Apply the Dynamat Xtreme to the spokes and round back plate.

    Glue them regardless, call it insurance.

    I hope your tech is using something better than Solen or Dayton.

    You'll like them better without the toe in :)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Shelby66 wrote: »
    What's the secret to removing the passives? I have all the hex head screws removed and tried with my palm from inside but I dont want to pry and mess up the front edge. Also does anyone have a photo of one with dynamat applied? The magnets seem to be pretty stable on the mids but i could glue them still.

    Sometimes the passives stick pretty well. I just keep working at them from the inside until they finally come out.

    obcv49nt22t4.png

    The glue that holds the magnets gets weak with age, just moving the speakers around can cause them to slip. It's best to glue them to avoid problems in the future.

    Are you going to use Armacell to seal the drivers?

    Have you read this link? These tips and more can be found at it.

    vr3mods.com/LCSDAUpgrade.php

    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    edited September 2017
    F1nut wrote: »
    You'll have push harder.....you may have tap them out with a dead blow hammer if really stuck, just have someone there to catch it when it pops free. If you find Mortite as the gasket, get rid of it and replace with proper speaker gasket material.


    I hope your tech is using something better than Solen or Dayton.

    ^^^^^

    This.

    Sonicap is my cap of choice.

    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,414
    I have Dueland resistors and Sonicaps in mine. The Duelands really brought some focus in imaging and centering the sound stage. They also brought some shimmer to the top end without being bright.

    I would suggest reaching out to VR3. He is the crossover maistro here.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • Shelby66
    Shelby66 Posts: 17
    edited September 2017
    TNTsTunes wrote: »
    Shelby66 wrote: »
    What's the secret to removing the passives? I have all the hex head screws removed and tried with my palm from inside but I dont want to pry and mess up the front edge. Also does anyone have a photo of one with dynamat applied? The magnets seem to be pretty stable on the mids but i could glue them still.

    Sometimes the passives stick pretty well. I just keep working at them from the inside until they finally come out.

    obcv49nt22t4.png

    The glue that holds the magnets gets weak with age, just moving the speakers around can cause them to slip. It's best to glue them to avoid problems in the future.

    Are you going to use Armacell to seal the drivers?

    Have you read this link? These tips and more can be found at it.

    vr3mods.com/LCSDAUpgrade.php

    Thanks for the tips! What armacell product is it? They have quite a few products listed on their website. btw whats wrong with mortite, does it tend to dry out?
    Post edited by Shelby66 on
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    whats wrong with mortite

    Everything.

    Parts Express sells a gasket material made for speakers, not stuff made for around the house.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Sweet, looks like someone already dynamatted them. The magnets in the mids almost look like they are in a groove, but I'll epoxy them anyway.

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    mt1m4kged5lk.jpg
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Yep, that's Mortite. You can see on the mid-driver where it has pulled off a good bit of the particleboard....not good. You'll need to fill the damaged areas with wood epoxy before putting your speakers back together.

    Be sure to glue both the top and bottom of the magnets. Get the gasket material from Parts Express too.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk