Odd M5 issue...
FestYboy
Posts: 3,861
Was poking around the garage and listening to my modded 5s, got into a good song so I cranked it up a bit. As I turned the gain past 11 o'clock, I lost my left tweet (rd0-194).
Well, ****!!! I just popped it. So I pulled the throttle back a bit and the tweet fired back up!? I repeated this several times. WTH?
Granted I haven't pulled these boxes apart yet to see what all was done, but is it possible the PO left the poly switch in?
It didn't seem like there was any delay between the tweet not working, and the volume being turned down below 11and working again (as if it might be an amp issue, but I still have signal to the MW on that channel).
Thoughts?
Well, ****!!! I just popped it. So I pulled the throttle back a bit and the tweet fired back up!? I repeated this several times. WTH?
Granted I haven't pulled these boxes apart yet to see what all was done, but is it possible the PO left the poly switch in?
It didn't seem like there was any delay between the tweet not working, and the volume being turned down below 11and working again (as if it might be an amp issue, but I still have signal to the MW on that channel).
Thoughts?
Comments
-
one way to be SURE
-
^ Yes, but I was hoping for a little more insight before cracking them open.
And vanilla it too, ummm, vanilla! I mean common, it won't even allow the word P-O-O-P!?! That's what I typed above and I'm fairly certain that that word is still rated G... -
The only device used in a Polk crossover that could do what you've described is a polyswitch.
-
Time to yank that sucker out. Expel the demon!!!
-
You'll need to install a small value resistor to make up for the resistance caused by the polyswitch, most owners recommend a 0.5 ohm resistor.
-
Any particular wattage?
-
Time to yank that sucker out. Expel the demon!!!
And buy more 194's sneaky suspicions you are about to roast a voice coil -
-
The odd ball thing was: it's only the left channel that does it and there's absolutely no distortion up until it cuts out, and the right channel is still clean at volumes well above that. @pitdogg2 So you believe this is a primary indicator that I have a failing VC as well as a bad poly switch? -
No I'm saying you are going to blow tweeters. Polyswitches start tripping easier the more they are tripped. But now they will not trip but the music will be sounding good you'll bump it up a bit more and think sounds good just a little more and poof .
-
^ Bingo ^Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
No I'm saying you are going to blow tweeters. Polyswitches start tripping easier the more they are tripped. But now they will not trip but the music will be sounding good you'll bump it up a bit more and think sounds good just a little more and poof .
Darn right the music sounds good!! But in all seriousness, I figure based on the dB level and distance I was from the Speaker (approx 3ft), I was only into it about 8 watts? -
No I'm saying you are going to blow tweeters. Polyswitches start tripping easier the more they are tripped. But now they will not trip but the music will be sounding good you'll bump it up a bit more and think sounds good just a little more and poof .
Darn right the music sounds good!! But in all seriousness, I figure based on the dB level and distance I was from the Speaker (approx 3ft), I was only into it about 8 watts?
Fair enough. That info is hard to ascertain the the web pages. I had some like that in my SDA's. I would just get to comfortable level sound and out it would go.
Just be careful after you replace with the resistor. -
Will do, and more 194s are on the shopping list.
-
Has anyone tried replacing the polyswitch with a resistor AND adding an inline fuse? You would have to open the speaker up if it blows but its better than frying a tweeter.
-
Has anyone tried replacing the polyswitch with a resistor AND adding an inline fuse? You would have to open the speaker up if it blows but its better than frying a tweeter.
Doubt anyone here has tried that. Try it and see. I do not think it would do one bit of good. -
Has anyone tried replacing the polyswitch with a resistor AND adding an inline fuse? You would have to open the speaker up if it blows but its better than frying a tweeter.
As long as you are using quality gear and know the limits of your rig you'll never fry a tweeter.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
^^^^^^^
As long as you are using quality gear and know the limits of your rig you'll never fry a tweeter. [/quote]
bingo
-
Has anyone tried replacing the polyswitch with a resistor AND adding an inline fuse? You would have to open the speaker up if it blows but its better than frying a tweeter.
Polk used fuses before the poly switches so yes it has been tried. -
I knew the older polks had a fuse (I have one). I just don't see how a fuse can add any resistance and shouldn't affect the sound (famous last words with all of the speakerwire voodoo). Seems like cheap insurance.
Or is it that the polk fuse doesn't work well and will not blow till the tweeter is damaged? -
fuse worked well it was 1 amp fast blow. Most took out fuse and went direct. Fuse has a tiny amount of resistance. With the fuse holder it is good to clean them very well once in a while. they corrode.
![[Deleted User]](https://w8.vanillicon.com/83b82048d67877ca27bbc25d5d38f9d3_100.png)
