Speaker replacements

I'm needing to replace the four 6.5" speakers in my suburban, right focus is on the front speakers for now. They are paired with tweeters that are functioning, but I'm thinking I'll skip over those and go with 2 way or 3 ways in place of the woofers.

I'm not thinking of spending much, there are some boss brands that are cheap on ebay, so price wise I'm thinking like less than 50 a pair. I just need something that works and sound decent for a good price.

Many thanks in advance!!!
Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.

Comments

  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 2,535
    The component sound is different than coaxial that's for sure.

    https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_bs_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77M7Y0CF83PSKQZXCR6M

    These are a little over $50 a pair but not much. Sound great too, had them in 3 different cars before switching to the MM line.

    https://www.amazon.com/Renegade-RX6-2C-6-5-Inch-Component-System/dp/B0045SRLE6

    Don't know how those sound but a pair of 6.5 components for $35, I know Renegade is a subdivision of Rockford.
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  • deucekazoodeucekazoo Posts: 146
    I don't know if I would switch over to coax on the front. You might not like the sound because the high frequencies get muffled by your legs/seats. That is why they are putting tweeters up high on most cars these days. But if I was you and wanted to go cheap, I would look at craigslist for someone selling their system. You can pick up real good speakers at good prices.
    Polk S10, S8, S4
    Polk RT8
    Polk Monitor 7s
    Working on getting SDAs
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Thanks for all the replies, yeah i dont necessarily want to go coaxial if possible bc i have excellent experience with components systems.

    I even thought of leaving the tweeters and getting some wof ets but I did that once and the tweeters started buzzing soon after... not sure what happened, I figured the woofers messed up the crossover point but idk how that would happen.
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • deucekazoodeucekazoo Posts: 146
    You might have removed the cap that blocks the low frequencies to the tweeters. A lot of the OEM manufacturers put that cap on the back of the woofers and then run the signal wires to the tweeters. If I were you I would just keep the stock tweeters as long as they work, get your new woofers and then just make sure you keep the cap (if you can find it from the original speakers) or add a cap to the signal wire to the tweeters to block the lower frequencies. You should be good to go.
    Polk S10, S8, S4
    Polk RT8
    Polk Monitor 7s
    Working on getting SDAs
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Sounds good, the caps are actually attached to the rear of the tweeter on these:) so going a new set of woofers will work just fine. Thanks so much for all the replies!!!
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    deucekazoo wrote: »
    You might have removed the cap that blocks the low frequencies to the tweeters. A lot of the OEM manufacturers put that cap on the back of the woofers and then run the signal wires to the tweeters. If I were you I would just keep the stock tweeters as long as they work, get your new woofers and then just make sure you keep the cap (if you can find it from the original speakers) or add a cap to the signal wire to the tweeters to block the lower frequencies. You should be good to go.

    I can't remember where I saw it are full range signals sent to the front woofers in this vehicle, since the cap is located on the tweeters?
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • deucekazoodeucekazoo Posts: 146
    Yes they should be, the woofers should naturally roll off on the high frequencies.
    Polk S10, S8, S4
    Polk RT8
    Polk Monitor 7s
    Working on getting SDAs
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Okay sweet, I ordered some coaxial drivers I had already planned on using in the back, I may try in the front, then later will probably get some nicer woofers to go up front.
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    I got the coax speakers and put one in, come to fine out the drivers side tweeter is blown:( very sad bc the speakers alone sound pretty bad. I think once I get some nice component speakers to go up front it'll work out nicely.
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    It's definitely not bose. But thank you. The install of anything should be really easy, this vehicle has some little mounting rings I just drilled small holes for the screws and just popped it in speaker and all... the tweeter install will be different as the hole is larger than the stock tweeter, what I'll end up doing is cutting holes in a secondary board of some kind that will sit over this hole with tweeters in there... shouldn't be any problems:)
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Yea I've been doing more research on replacing the sub but the two brands I've seen that made replacements (kicker and memphis) their pricing is insane like wow.... so seeing as how you can do a amp crossover bypass, I may just dish out closer on to $100 or more for a lot nicer front door speakers. I'm not going nuts spending $300++ on a subwoofer, no need.
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    I already got some cheap pyramid brand coax's that I'm trying in the front, turns out two tweeters is too harsh on the ears, but I was planning on putting them in the back anyway, that's why I'm saying just as long as I can get the front speakers sounding good I'm happy. It doesn't have to rattle my brain
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • I got the lower end polk separates and have been really pleased. First the polk stuff tends to be more efficient than most of the others out there which means you don't need a lot of amp to drive them. You can still get some last year's model of 6 1/2 with a one inch dome for a little less than $120 bucks. If you get the current version they are around $140-160. I paired them with a sub but they mak decent bass if you don't want to crank it way up:

    latest version:
    https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6502-Component-Motorcycle/dp/B01N0KKB7W/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538883599&sr=1-16&keywords=Polk+Audio+6+1/2+component+car+speakers


    previous version:
    https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000P0R6LQ&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=5bb95d06eba0c90834e460d4
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Hi thanks for the input but we hit a deer and it did 5 grand worth of damage, I have a different vehicle now. I did however end up putting some pyle coaxial speakers in the doors and it did improve the sound:-)
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Oops didn’t realize I already said that
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,678
    How did you cook the deer?
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 16,121
    la2vegas wrote: »
    How did you cook the deer?

    Sounds like it got grilled.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    la2vegas wrote: »
    How did you cook the deer?

    Yep grilled, real good :D
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,678
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    la2vegas wrote: »
    How did you cook the deer?

    Yep grilled, real good :D

    Sounds like an expensive meal.
  • Mr. SharpeMr. Sharpe Posts: 1,264
    Quite expensive hahaha
    Electronics: Westinghouse 43" LED, Marantz UD-7007 player, Denon AVR-x3100w receiver/preamp, DIY Ethereal ESO-1 power conditioner, Parasound HCA-1500a power house.

    Speakers: Polk Audio RTA-12c mains, Polk Audio PSW-505 sub, Klipsch rc-10 center, Klipsch RB-41 surrounds.

    Cables: Audioquest King Cobras, Audiquest Diamondbacks, Pangea HDMI's (one for audio, one for video), KnuKonceptz sub cable, Pangea AC-14 and AC-14se's, Pangea AC-9, Dayton Audio speaker wire.
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