add some ventilation with a blue ray on top of your amp.
dannylightning
Posts: 233
so most blue ray players don't seem to have isolation feet.. and if you need to set it onto of a receiver it can be a issue since it may cover up some of the ventilation holes on top of the amp..
here is a quick and easy fix.. 20 oz soda caps can do the job....
or you could get something like this..which would also work well.
https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB511-Protector-Furniture-Rubber/dp/B002A2JUJ8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499352714&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=isolation+feet+riser
here is a quick and easy fix.. 20 oz soda caps can do the job....
or you could get something like this..which would also work well.
https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB511-Protector-Furniture-Rubber/dp/B002A2JUJ8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499352714&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=isolation+feet+riser
Cambridge Azur 651A
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect
Comments
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Heat rises. It' s never a 'best practice' to put a component atop an amplifier.
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Unless the amp is fan cooled, that's still not enough ventilation. Just don't put anything on top of an amp, ever.
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Unless the amp is fan cooled, that's still not enough ventilation. Just don't put anything on top of an amp, ever.
Concur.
For isolation/spacing in general, though -- I like hockey pucks (FWIW).
Even that's borderline for an amplifier that generates a fair amount of heat (recognizing that, in some circumstances, stacking is utterly unavoidable).
The old rule of thumb is two inches, minimum, of clearance on all sides; three's better. More is better yet. It's always best to have the hottest components "on top".
Non issue here, fortunately.
DSC_0132 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr -
you cant set the amp on top of this. i would think it leaves plenty of ventilation due to how small the blue ray is..
most of them are tiny these days so i don't see it being a issue. correct me if i am wrong..
Cambridge Azur 651A
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect -
How much heat does your integrated put out, Danny?
Marginally warm or hot?
How long does it take for those bottle caps to burn in before they're at optimal performance? I imagine you should see greater sharpness and saturation, with deeper blacks in the media you watch, as well as tighter, fuller sound presentation.
I use the hockey pucks, too whenever I need to do this, but I do try not to stack anymore. BDP is pretty light weight, but in earlier days I used to stack all kindsa stuff. It's a wonder I never dented any tops.
In some of my rudimentary setups I'm using little 24" wire shelving units from Home Depot for greater separation between components for isolation and heat dissipation, with mastic dampers placed between the wire shelving and MDF boards I use for shelves for the equipment to sit on. Not the best setup, but helps me feel like I'm doing something while system builds in flux.I disabled signatures. -
I actually kind of like the wire shelving units -- They're fairly sturdy, inexpensive (the Home Despot kind, not 'the real thing' sold for the food industry and whatnot) and even marginally attractive. The only drawback (as far as I am concerned) is the need, in some cases, to add "support" for feet that don't quite line up with the wire shelf grid. A small price to pay.
As some folks here probably know, I chose to use the Home Despot grade shelves upstairs when we built this house -- albeit only for the shelf queens (FWIW).
013 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
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Good grief Mark.....I remember when that room was virtually empty. LOL
I have some aluminum riders if you are interested.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Good grief Mark.....I remember when that room was virtually empty. LOL
Man always fill empty space with stuff! lolSalk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Personally, its a lot more than a couple soda caps, but this is what I'm using on top my AVR since its in a closed rack.
Its whisper quiet, you can program it IIRC to increase speed as temps go up (I haven't done that), or just set it at a given level to run 24/7 (this is what I've done).
Keep the HDMI board on my Denon nice and cool. I used to use 2 120mm CPU fans I hacked to be powered via a USB to 2 prong adapter. This is a much better solution, and it looks fancy to boot.
I've had it for a couple months and its DA BOMB! I'm haven't decided if I just want to buy another one of the S8's or its brother the S9 for the top of my B&K..."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
my amp runs a little warm.. nowhere close to being hot... i expect the caps to burn in, in about 3-6 years..
i got one of the bedrooms in this house so this is my set up.. the living room has people watching reality shows and such crap so, the roommates like lame stuff lol so this is what i have to work with.. i dont have the sub hooked up.. i don't need it with these speakers but i dont have any other place to put it.
i like that component cooling system.. never saw one of those before.. something like that would be nice to have..
Cambridge Azur 651A
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect -
that cleaned up nice without those floorstanders up there, Danny
I like your technique for airing out the underwears and socks.
laundering is overrated, I always say.I disabled signatures. -
that cleaned up nice without those floorstanders up there, Danny
I like your technique for airing out the underwears and socks.
laundering is overrated, I always say.
say what about the laundry ??? not sure where that came from..Cambridge Azur 651A
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect -
dannylightning wrote: »
A bunch of weirdos lurk around here... you've been warned2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
well... there is a current thread entitled "lets talk spikes and racks".
Just thought I'd point that out...
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mhardy6647 wrote: »
The beatings will continue until moral improves!
Thanks,
Mgmt
Speaking of socks, I look rather fetching and quite dapper in mine whilst sporting sandals. -
mhardy6647 wrote: »
The beatings will continue until moral improves!
Thanks,
Mgmt
Speaking of socks, I look rather fetching and quite dapper in mine whilst sporting sandals.
Speaking of socks and sandals...
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/science/science-news/7964516/Romans-wore-socks-with-sandals-new-British-dig-suggests.html
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Mr. Curl gave me some advice on bias my HCA-1000A high by monitoring the temperature. It is very sensitive to ventilation. It will run pretty cool if there is nothing on top (not in a cabinet) but once you add a little blockage, it gets HOT.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
I'm wondering what the melting point of those pop tops are. Nuthin' like dripping hot plastic going inside your amp.HT SYSTEM-
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lsi 9's -
I'm wondering what the melting point of those pop tops are. Nuthin' like dripping hot plastic going inside your amp.
usually a bit over 200 degrees. but my amplifier has a feature called cap 5 which prevents caps from melting..
please check out what my owners manual says about this..
bottle cap5 protection includes temperature detection which constantly monitors the heat generated by the output transistors. If bottle caps are setting on top of the amp and the monitored temperature reaches a high level (suitably within the limits of the output devices) the amplifier will automatically switch into a fault mode..Cambridge Azur 651A
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect -
dannylightning wrote: »the amplifier will automatically switch into a fault mode.. :)the amplifier will automatically switch into a fault mode..
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dannylightning wrote: »the amplifier will automatically switch into a fault mode.. :)the amplifier will automatically switch into a fault mode..
i would imagine if you turn it off and let it cool down it would go back to normal. i doubt the would design something that you could never use again if it got too hot.Cambridge Azur 651A
Polk LSi M703
Sonos Connect