An Audyssey Question

mrloren
mrloren Posts: 2,391
Hey guys and gals

So here is one for you.

I like my Marantz and how it sounds. I have been running my front speakers and center as large and just letting the audyssey default do it's thing. If I change to small and set the crossover to 80 it sounds hollow. Ok so run large right? sounds great, house shakes.

Well this morning I was board and found another menu in the settings. It shows the Audyssey EQ settings
y27v3mhaj9h5.jpg

That is one deep valley in the lower end. Is there a way to get rid of this. I looked for ways to adjust it with no luck. Guess this is why I can't run small and 80 either.

Was just having some redneck thoughts of tapping some cardboard over the lower two drivers and run Audyssey... ooh no I am not going to place a speaker on the side for a center. Would pulling the jumpers off and plugging in to the top post do the same thing. kind of tricking Audyssey into putting in more mid bass..

I do fear running my front 3 as large is not going to be good on my AVR either.

Cheers

Loren
When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

Family Room:
Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
Main: Polk LsiM 705
Center: Polk LSiM 704C
Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
Surrounds: Polk S15
Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

Bed Room;
Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
Main: Polk Signature S20
Center: Polk Signature S35
Rear: Polk R15
Sub: HSU STF-2

Working Warehouse;
Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
Old sony 12" Sub
Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
«1

Comments

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    @mrloren

    IIRC your not seeing the SPEAKERS response, but the graph of the FILTERS applied to get a FLAT response......

    So actually that valley is show how INSANE your room gain is down low since Audyssey has to chop the crap out of the signal to get things as close to flat as possible.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,648
    edited July 2017
    That large null at 80 hz that Audyessy is trying to correct is likey to be
    1)the sub being out of phase with the mains2)and or crossover on sub itself set too low 3)A room induced cancelation do to subs location.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    I have my HSU set to "out" so its running off the LFE coming from the receiver. I did follow HSU instructions and had the sub with 1 port open and switched to 1 port open when i ran Audyssey.

    Keeping the speakers set as large and full range works well but that is putting a load on my AVR.

    I am happy on how it sounds but now I found that deep valley has my OCD up in arms..... I was always curious to why I could not set my small and speakers @ 80 at least now I know
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • aboroth00
    aboroth00 Posts: 1,099
    FTGV wrote: »
    That large null at 80 hz that Audyessy is trying to correct is likey to be
    1)the sub being out of phase with the mains2)and or crossover on sub itself set too low 3)A room induced cancelation do to subs location.

    Agreed. It might be 3, as the normal dimensions of a room ~8ft ceilings would cause a room mode around that frequency. 1) seems unlikely as audyssey sets the distance (signal delay/phase) to compensate for phase. Playing with the placement of the speakers and if possible the LP might help with that null.
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    wish I could move the room around....WAF thing. Room does open to kitchen and halls too.

    My OCD on this will = me playing with it trying to get it to go flatter without moving stuff.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • dolbyd
    dolbyd Posts: 430
    mrloren wrote: »
    wish I could move the room around....WAF thing. Room does open to kitchen and halls too.

    My OCD on this will = me playing with it trying to get it to go flatter without moving stuff.

    Isn't OCD and audio a nightmare. I have it bad when I change a piece of equipment.
    Love this stuff but you can go nuts.
    I don't dare look at my 5010 graph now. It sounds good so I will stay off this train.
    LOL
    Main room- RTiA9 x4, CSiA6, in ceiling Atmos RT-70 x4, SVS PC 4000 x2, Marantz 8805A, OPPO 203, Emotiva DR3 G3, Emotiva XPA-2 G3, Emotiva XPA-5 G3, Emotiva X300, Sony 75" 940E, Panasonic Plasma VT50, PS Audio Power Port X2, PS Audio AC-5 x8, AQ Rocket 33 Biwire speaker cables, AQ King Cobra XLR IC, Furman PFi20 W/Cullen cable, SoildSteel S4-4 rack, Gik room treatments

    Office- Legend L600, in ceiling Polk RC80i, Marantz 7704, OPPO 203, Pioneer Elite PDF-59 CD, PSA Stellar 300, Sony 55" 800B, Gik room treatment

    Master BR- Signature ES60, Signature S35 Center, Signature S15 Dolby Height, LSI700 in ceiling, SVS-SB4000, Marantz 5012, Emotiva XPA5 G2, OPPO 203, Pioneer DVL-919 Laser Disc, Sony 55" OLED

    Patio- SDI Atrium8 x3, Emotiva A-100 amps x3
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    dolbyd wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    wish I could move the room around....WAF thing. Room does open to kitchen and halls too.

    My OCD on this will = me playing with it trying to get it to go flatter without moving stuff.

    Isn't OCD and audio a nightmare. I have it bad when I change a piece of equipment.
    Love this stuff but you can go nuts.
    I don't dare look at my 5010 graph now. It sounds good so I will stay off this train.
    LOL

    why did I check oh no......
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    So my little OCD on this took over this morning.

    I closed all the doors upstairs busted out the Audyssey mic and went to town.

    #1, 4" port open sub set to 1 port open as per HSU instructions and yes the valley was still there

    #2 same setup and phase set to 180... oh my that was bad dipped down to -18 for the peak.

    #3 two ports open and phase @ 0 came out the same as #1

    #4 both ports plugged sealed mode and it was a little better than #1

    I have two Marantz Audyssey mic's and one Onkyo. I did the above with all 3 and still can't get rid of that valley or set my mains to small and 80.

    If I get time maybe I will do something not to smart like cover the bottom speaker on the S60 or run Audyssey with my S20 and then see what I get.

    Happy 4th

    L
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    What do you mean, you CANT set your mains to small and 80hz? As in you cant figure out where in the software to do it, or it wont let you select that frequency as the crossover point?

    Also I think you should indulge your OCD to verify your looking at your results right.

    Spend 100 bucks on a UMIK-1 USB mic and then use REW to measure your room response. That will let you look at your response in different seats and in front/behind your main LP to see how the room is affecting stuff.

    Its MUCH EASIER to run a single sweep and then tweak with settings in your AVR and then measure again, than it is to run XT32 multiple times.\

    You got me worked up so I redid my entire XT32 + MiniDSP sub integration yesterday and got it working a lot better...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    edited July 2017
    If I set the mains to small and crossover @ 80 it sounds hollow. running large full range sounds a lot better. Till I found the graph on the EQ I thought oh well I'll just run large. Now I know that it is audyssey the reason it sounded like hollow crud when set to small and 80.

    Maybe I will plug the power port on the S60 and give it a try

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,886
    I used to drive myself bananas with this [email protected]! Audyssey is very picky of mic placement that can give you totally different results. I did a tight cluster for all the measurements across 2 main listening positions instead of across my whole couch.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    edited July 2017
    I found this article, and used Case 8 from it for my last XT32 calibration and it sounds MUCH MUCH MUCH better.

    As long as it is, I'd suggest reading the full article if possible...

    They give some suggestions for mic placement that are VERY DIFFERENT from what the XT32 screen tells you to do that you can try out to see if it makes things sound better....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • aboroth00
    aboroth00 Posts: 1,099
    edited July 2017
    I found this article, and used Case 8 from it for my last XT32 calibration and it sounds MUCH MUCH MUCH better.

    As long as it is, I'd suggest reading the full article if possible...

    They give some suggestions for mic placement that are VERY DIFFERENT from what the XT32 screen tells you to do that you can try out to see if it makes things sound better....

    Ditto on the XT32. When I was running a Marantz 7002 with XT32, those mic schemes really helped improve overall SQ and spatiality. Also definitely agree that XT32 shows stuff on the screen that isn't entirely accurate when compared with my minidsp mic and REW. XT32 definitely does sound better than no EQ especially with movies.

    @mrloren Sorry to hear that the sound is hollow when the speakers are set to small. Perhaps play with setting the crossover higher or lower? The crossover setting at 80hz might be sitting on a null in your room.
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    OK,

    So all day at work just wondering what is would do with the ports on the S60 plugged
    lzwl8vvlj3bh.jpg

    Well I got rid of it on the right speaker. left speaker might be from the fridge running when I did audyssey. it does dip on the low end but comes up quick right around 80 mark.

    For the sound, Audyssey set the speakers to small and crossover @ 60. I changed it to 80 on all 4 and rocked a bit of U2. GoT battle bor black water test was great. So now it is much better.

    so a few towels and a little OCD can fix it

    BTW; when the fire water blows up I think USGS might have a tremor alert
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    edited July 2017
    My OCD on the port has taken it's toll.

    I got home and just ran Audyssey on the bedroom HT with the ports plugged

    This is before port plugging

    f371tctzmvyb.jpg

    On the S60 I totally sealed up the ports with about 5 yellow Costco microfiber towels. I only used two this time for the S20

    After

    tl37kc2pcf1g.jpg

    Did make some of a difference. Low end is smooth and seamless. Odd thing is Audyssey set my S60 to small right from the start. Audyssey set my S20 as large. I changed them to small and crossover @ 80, blended in very nice. Maybe it has something to do with the speakers are on top of a bedroom Entertainment center or I didn't close off the ports good enough.

    Pulled the towels and had a good listen to Queensrych Empire. Oh yes, nice improvement.

    So if Audyssey is not calibrating to your liking, plug the ports on the speakers

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,924
    Empire is a favorite of mine. The DVD-Audio of Empire is one of my best works in that format. Once this thing of mine gets settled I'll be picking up another universal player to take advantage of all the multi channel SACD/ DVD-Audios i have.
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Empire is a favorite of mine. The DVD-Audio of Empire is one of my best works in that format. Once this thing of mine gets settled I'll be picking up another universal player to take advantage of all the multi channel SACD/ DVD-Audios i have.

    If I stumble across something I will let you know....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,924
  • jayman_1975
    jayman_1975 Posts: 672
    So why don't you just get a 3 channel amp and leave Audyssey do what it wants. Its there to calculate imperfections in your room and correct it for you for optimal sound. Don't tell anyone but I listen to music with Audyssey engaged. I have tried a strict 2 channel rig with a high end CD player, dedicated pre amp, and high end mono block amplifiers and still cannot get as good of music reproduction as I do on my Onkyo TX NR 5008 (upgraded by The Upgrade Company mind you) with Audyssey engaged and applying proper corrections. But it do have two wicked amps powering left right and centre.
    Onkyo TX NR 5008 modified by The Upgrade Company
    Oppo BDP 93 modified by The Upgrade Company
    Arcam CD37
    Monitor Audio Gold GS 60
    Revolver Audio Music 5 towers.(surround)
    Vandersteen V2W
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    Yes amp is on the list for the next upgrade. Won't be a monster amp but at least 125W for the S60.

    I came up with plugging the ports just on a wim, Yes it came out perfect for sound quality. Did a much better job on the main HT with the S60 than it did on my bedroom HT S20.

    Audyssey is not perfect for every room, guess just a guess that the ports were putting out something in the mid bass range that Audyssey was over correcting. Both systems sound soooooo much sweeter now.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • jayman_1975
    jayman_1975 Posts: 672
    mrloren wrote: »
    Yes amp is on the list for the next upgrade. Won't be a monster amp but at least 125W for the S60.

    I came up with plugging the ports just on a wim, Yes it came out perfect for sound quality. Did a much better job on the main HT with the S60 than it did on my bedroom HT S20.

    Audyssey is not perfect for every room, guess just a guess that the ports were putting out something in the mid bass range that Audyssey was over correcting. Both systems sound soooooo much sweeter now.

    Interesting
    Onkyo TX NR 5008 modified by The Upgrade Company
    Oppo BDP 93 modified by The Upgrade Company
    Arcam CD37
    Monitor Audio Gold GS 60
    Revolver Audio Music 5 towers.(surround)
    Vandersteen V2W
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,293
    A need to plug bass ports on speakers (not so much subwoofers) to get them to sound good is usually a sign that speakers are too close to boundary walls or other objects which muddies mid-bass sound quality. Although it is not common to do port plugging on speakers, it can be a useful work around if there are no other options. The other work around is to place the speakers in a better location.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    edited July 2017
    Emlyn wrote: »
    A need to plug bass ports on speakers (not so much subwoofers) to get them to sound good is usually a sign that speakers are too close to boundary walls or other objects which muddies mid-bass sound quality. Although it is not common to do port plugging on speakers, it can be a useful work around if there are no other options. The other work around is to place the speakers in a better location.

    Yeah my HT is not the greatest location. Then again with how open my home is with all the clutter mixed in I don't think doing a 180 to the room will help much.

    I only plugged the ports for Audyssey calibration. Once done I pulled the towels.

    We watched some BSG last night on Blu-Ray, sound is so much better now.

    One thing I did notice. Everyone says Audyssey sets the sub low and to bump it up 3 to 5 db. I was running the sub +4db from the Audyssey setting before. After I ran Audyssey with the ports on the S60 plugged I didn't have to bump the sub up at all.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,293
    I am trying to follow the logic of what happened. Sounds like the ports on the S60s were plugged during calibration which means less bass output from them. The subwoofer's output volume would have been reduced during calibration to match the reduced bass output volume of the main speakers. After calibration you removed the plugs from the ports on the S60s, increasing the bass output from them above what auto calibration set, and left the reduced output on the subwoofer?

    It may be the corner location and room loading and gain from the subwoofer plus boosting its output above the calibrated level before re-calibration was causing problems with the other speakers which was resolved by reducing the subwoofer output and increasing the bass output from the main speakers after calibration.

    Since you like the adjusted calibration now, I would leave things where they are. That is all that really matters. But, if you have a good sound pressure meter you can check the settings manually with that. I always do that after an auto calibration myself but auto calibration is usually right to within half a dB for me for speaker levels.

    I find auto calibration to be more useful for acoustic timing, distance, and reverb control rather than strictly setting speaker levels.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    edited July 2017
    Ok so here is the winded version.

    Last December I got my SR5010. Nice receiver. hook it up run Audyssey and good to go. I had RTi8, CSi5 and an HSU VTF2. took some tweaking but I go it sounding almost as good and the Sony ES it replaced on music, for movies it blew the Sony out of the water.

    Late February I took advantage of an Adorama sale on the Signature S60, S20 and S30 set for $800. I got them in and had it all dialed in for the most part. Whenever I changed the speakers to small and crossover to 80 it sounded hollow. back to large and full range I was good.

    I figured my sub was not able to keep up with the better speakers sound good but there is always better. So I saved a bit, hit a nice scratcher and sold my VTF2 replaced it with a VTF3-MK5 monster. Sounded a little better but still change to small and 80 it was still hollow. Oh well leave it at large and it slams in the face great.

    Last weekend I found the audyssey EQ graph. Hmmm, big valley peaking right @ 80 mark, No wonder I could not run small and 80, Audyssey was cutting in by as much as -10db in that area. I was compensating by turning up the sub level but that only helps so much.

    I ran Audyssey many times in the last week to see if I could get rid of the valley or if I was stuck with it. I posted on this forum and two others to see if anyone had this same problem. I followed other advice pulled the speakers away from the wall a few inches more. Tried reversing the phase of the sub and speakers but still no joy.

    I was ready to just leave it as is and just run large till I thought of plugging the power port in the S60 and run Audyssey. OMG the difference is almost night and day. Audyssey set the speakers to small and crossover @ 60, going to 80 was seamless. The depth and fullness of the sound is something I never heard in this house before. GoT battle for Blackwater fire water was just insane. This came out soo darn good I decided to give it a go on the bedroom HT. Bedroom HT came out a little better than it was before but not as night and day as my main HT.

    Best I figure is when Audyssey was doing it thing it was picking up a lot of room reflection and then over compensating for it. One thing I don't like about my house is that it sucks for proper HT.

    The way it sounds right now I am not touching a darn thing. no need to turn the sub up either
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    When running XT did you turn everything with a motor off at the breaker? Fridge, AC, ceiling fans etc? I find I literally turn EVERYTHING off and run it and it turns out decent...

    That said you won't REALLY know until you buy a UMIK ISB mic or similar and run sweeps of your room....

    I struggled with the same and won't repost how I fixed it since it's above lol...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    edited July 2017
    It sounds so good right now I'm not messing with it. If I ever do recalibrate I will be flipping breakers off, thanks for the idea.

    I am on tight funds right now, I want to add an amp by Thanksgiving.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    mrloren wrote: »
    It sounds so good right now I'm not messing with it. If I ever do recalibrate I will be flipping breakers off, thanks for the idea.

    I am on tight funds right now, I want to add an amp by Thanksgiving.

    Understand..... Re-doing XT32 with breakers off doesnt cost a thing though lol.....

    Literallly my house goes off grid except my 3 dedicated outlets when I run it.... gets hot quick though lol...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,391
    Chula Vista weather in July is not that bad. might give it a go this week if the mother in-law does her wednesday casino thing.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,270
    mrloren wrote: »
    Chula Vista weather in July is not that bad. might give it a go this week if the mother in-law does her wednesday casino thing.

    Please god tell me your using a mic stand or tripod for the mic too... otherwise thats another reason for potential weird results...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)