Did I make a bad speaker cable purchase?

adrift02

Quick background first: I've had my RTi A7s for a couple months and am finally getting around to upgrading the rest of my setup accordingly. I recently purchased a B&K EX-442 amp to go with my Denon x3300 (thanks for the help re: that forum post guys), which should improve the speakers dramatically while adding a bit warmer sound, which I tend to like (not that the A7s were too harsh). Along with the amp, I purchased a some BJC LC-1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJLNEOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cables to run between the amp/receiver based on some budget conscious recommendations on this forum.

Now, I'm looking to swap out the cheap Frys speaker cable I have running to the A7s, but I think I made a mistake. I read that Canare 4S11 is a good budget option and bought some off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SPVJDRW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) before I realized the recommendation was for the BJC Canare 4S11.

*Now for my question(s)*

Should I return the Canare 4S11 and get the BJC version? I assume the assembly can make a difference, but we're already talking about rather minor sonic differences between cable, given the rest of my setup. I also realize I didn't take care of the jumper plate, which means I'll need to make another purchase for jumper cables assuming I don't send what I bought back and get something bi-wired. On that note, since I went the budget route with the BJC LC-1, would it even make a difference if I, for example, hit up Doug for some nice custom-made cables like these: http://douglasconnection.com/Custom-Made-Furez-12AWG-Bi-Wire-OFHC-Speaker-Cables-DCF124BW.htm?

Ideally, I'd like to keep my cable purchases to a budget amount -- which is currently ~$126 for the receiver->amp and amp->speaker runs. I know there's a difference as you get higher quality runs, but I'm hesitant to spend significantly more at this point with a small return on SQ. In short, if you have budget recs/alternatives to what I bought, please share. If you have a somewhat pricier recommendation but can vouch for a major SQ difference, I'm also interested in hearing it.

Thanks in advance!

nooshinjohn

You will do just fine with the Canare based upon the gear you will be using it with.

heiney9

Canare is Canare cable...............no matter who sells it.

The BJC stuff is the same as the Amazon stuff.

H9

mrloren

Send it back! Get some 10awg Furez from Doug and some good banana's from Amazon. Make your own for about $60.

rpf65

Too much work mrloran. This saves you from going to a second website.

http://www.douglasconnection.com/Alpha-21-OCC-DIY-Interconnect-Cable-Kit-AlphaDIYICKit.htm

warren

Work, it's a four letter word..

adrift02

Thx for the answers guys. I'm going to send back the Canare I bought because it's not bi-amped. Still deciding whether I want to save a buck and reorder the BJC Canare bi-amped or go with the more expensive option from Doug. If I went that route I'd be doubling what I'm paying for cables though, especially if I don't make it from parts. Just not sure it's worth it over BJC given my setup, which is mid-fi at best...

I'll think about it and I appreciate all the responses!

Nightfall

Just make jumpers out of the Canare, you don't need to return it.

nooshinjohn

adrift02 wrote: »

Thx for the answers guys. I'm going to send back the Canare I bought because it's not bi-amped. Still deciding whether I want to save a buck and reorder the BJC Canare bi-amped or go with the more expensive option from Doug. If I went that route I'd be doubling what I'm paying for cables though, especially if I don't make it from parts. Just not sure it's worth it over BJC given my setup, which is mid-fi at best...

I'll think about it and I appreciate all the responses!

Dougs cables are connected to many rigs here. His stuff is top notch as is his integrity. You will be doing yourself a favor by going with him.

Moose68Bash

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

That's good counsel, @adrift02.

Doug and his products are excellent and excellent value. For the budget you have, he'll give you a good product, or he will tell you how to get what you are looking for.

On another note, perhaps others on this Forum have differing opinions, but My experience with Canare 4S11 cables is that they are very bright, the opposite of the coloration you said you were looking for.

lightman1

$12 and peace of mind..

adrift02

So let's say I went with Doug. Would I need to replace the BJC interconnect as well? Seems like differing cables in the line from source to speaker would matter.

Regarding turning the Canare into a jumper, how would I go about that being that they're already terminated with bananas?

rpf65

Not absolutely necessary to change interconnects to agree with speaker wire. Sometimes they don't mesh well, sometimes they do. If there is something about the sound you dislike, describe it, include all components and wire/cable, and you'll get more advise than you want.

Upstatemax

Canare 4S11 is a fantastic budget cable.

You have zero need to send it back.

I've used it for years and I find it to be a very neutral cable.

Personally I buy it unterminated and terminate with AudioQuest BFA's.

It's used to wire up all of my HT speakers...

tonyb

The Canare cable is a good budget cable, but wouldn't be my first choice if looking to add warmth or tame the highs on those speakers. In the world of Budget cables, new....can't really think of any with a warmer top end.

Used cables, different story.

Kimber cable, MIT, Acoustic zen, Analysis Plus, Wireworld.......come to mind. Gregg Straley Reality cables go for about 150 bucks for an 8 ft pair used and have some nice warmth to them.

As far as speaker cables and interconnects matching, some prefer it, some don't. Think of a recipe to bake a cake, many ingredients to get the results you want. Cables are just an ingredient to tailor the sound to your preferences, they all don't have to match.

adrift02

Thanks again, all. I'll give the Canares a shot with the amp and see how that goes before switching things around. While I generally prefer a warm, mid-focused sound signature, the A7s sound fine to me and aren't too bright. Once I'm running the B&K I think a brighter cable will probably pair nicely given how warm / tubey it's supposed to sound...

F1nut

The A7's are inherently bright. If you don't think they are you've got a warm rig already or upper hearing loss. IMO.

adrift02

They are definitely bright, just saying they aren't too bright for me (It's mainly sibilance that I'm sensitive to and can't stand). That being said, I'll definitely appreciate the warmer sig the B&K will bring, and I'm assuming the cable won't shift it too much the other way.

tonyb

adrift02 wrote: »

They are definitely bright, just saying they aren't too bright for me (It's mainly sibilance that I'm sensitive to and can't stand). That being said, I'll definitely appreciate the warmer sig the B&K will bring, and I'm assuming the cable won't shift it too much the other way.

I hope it works for you, have to try anyway right ? If sibilance is your thing, and to most people it is, budget cables usually don't conquer that issue. It's an inherit flaw I've found in many brands of budget cables. Some to a greater degree than others.

Can also be the gear contributing to sibilance, or your source material. Sibilance is like tracking down ground loop hum, you just want it gone, but might take some detective work.

adrift02

tonyb wrote: »

adrift02 wrote: »

They are definitely bright, just saying they aren't too bright for me (It's mainly sibilance that I'm sensitive to and can't stand). That being said, I'll definitely appreciate the warmer sig the B&K will bring, and I'm assuming the cable won't shift it too much the other way.

I hope it works for you, have to try anyway right ? If sibilance is your thing, and to most people it is, budget cables usually don't conquer that issue. It's an inherit flaw I've found in many brands of budget cables. Some to a greater degree than others.

Can also be the gear contributing to sibilance, or your source material. Sibilance is like tracking down ground loop hum, you just want it gone, but might take some detective work.

So far so good with my setup. Sibilance pops up with some source material, but it's generally a bad recording, and I'd hear it with any remotely detailed speakers. The A7s are bright, but I haven't heard them turn up more sibilance than normal, which some of my very detailed IEMs will do. If I can get some silky smooth vocals out of the B&K + A7 combo I'll be a very happy camper.

mrloren

rpf65 wrote: »

Too much work mrloran. This saves you from going to a second website.

http://www.douglasconnection.com/Alpha-21-OCC-DIY-Interconnect-Cable-Kit-AlphaDIYICKit.htm

Nice interconnect cables there,

This is the speaker cable I was suggesting http://douglasconnection.com/Furez-10-AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-Cable-Raw-FZ102.htm

And the banana connectors https://www.amazon.com/Audioquest-SureGrip-Silver-Bananas-pack/dp/B00TQ1D5W4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492487268&sr=1-3&keywords=audioquest+banana+plugs

Doug does sell Furez banana's @ $25 a pair.

helipilotdoug

Good Golly!! Thanks for all those kind words guys @Adrift02 Please contact me with any questions you might have. As a Club Polk member, you will get a 10% discount on most anything you purchase. Also, depending on the length you need, I might have some used cables you can pick up at substantial savings.
https://www.douglasconnection.com/contactus.sc

scubalab

Definitely great advice on going with Doug's stuff. I've had both the Canare 4S11 and some Furez (from Doug). To do what you want and to keep it on a budget, I'd go with this:

http://douglasconnection.com/Furez-14AWG-4-Conductor-Speaker-Cable-Raw-FZ144.htm

Twenty feet will run around $25 with the CP discount.

Add 6 pair of these and you could bi-wire and still be under $100 total for the pair:

http://douglasconnection.com/Audiophile-Gold-Plated-Locking-Banana-Plugs-MTBP192.htm

Keep in mind that you'd need to build these yourself. That'd probably take 1/2 - 1 hour. Add some heatshrink for a cleaner look.

I'd think 10 AWG is a little over-kill for 10' runs. You'd be fine with 12 or 14 AWG. Remember, the Canare 4S11 is four 14 AWG conductors. Not bi-wired, two conductors combined is about 11 AWG.

All this said, if you like the Canare cables you already have from Amazon, for a couple bucks more, buy some raw 4S11 cable (You'd probably need less than two feet. Take 6" - 10" of the two red conductors, twist them and maybe add some spades (then do the same with two black conductors) and make matching jumpers. Easy peasy, and very cost effective. Personally, I don't think bi-wiring vs. single wire from the amp and a jumper wire of the same type will net you any difference in sound.

Definitely talk to Doug though. He'll help to get you to exactly where you want to be. He can even hook you up with some adhesive heatshrink and tech flex if you want to go that far and DIY.

msg

scubalab wrote: »

Keep in mind that you'd need to build these yourself. That'd probably take 1/2 - 1 hour. Add some heatshrink for a cleaner look.

HAAAAA!!! Thanks Al. Man, I think my first set of cables took me 8+ hours. Subsequent cables not much better. Gave me a newfound respect for what Doug does

Not to scare anyone off doing this, it's definitely worth the experience, and it's fantastic that Doug offers these DIY kits and answers questions to help out, but man, it's a lot more work than it looks, keeping the process straight and learning how everything works if you've never made cables before.

Then again, when it comes to this stuff, I'm probably just a bit

mrloren

Here is the thread for the Furez I got from Doug. http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/165155/new-furez-cable-wow#latest

I am going to replace the GLS locking banana's this weekend (if I have time) with Audioquest silver BFA plugs.

[Deleted User]

Some would say match the connector and plug type. YMMV

Upstatemax

I've used the silver BFA's with gold binding posts without issue.

What would be the concern?