Amp for RTiA7s
Comments
-
Yup, the "20" is my preference. Call Furman @ 1 (877) 486-4738, Pacific time zone, for connection details. They'll suggest a resistor* across two of the ports in front. Hope that* works for you.
That* didn't work w/my Outlaw 975 so I used DPDT relay instead, about $6/7 at an auto parts store. I'll try to remember to reply w/details tonight just in case.
Tony
Thanks again, Tony. I ordered the 20 and will give them a call when I get it re: running a 12v trigger from my Denon to this. I'm a complete noob re: the use/need for a resistor or relay (I thought those were essentially built into a device like this to make use of the 12v trigger) but hopefully they can explain it to me. Otherwise I may bug you again, haha! -
If someone sent me my post, I'd be just as confused. Allow to me clarify:
1. The Furman defaults to "on."
2. I connect relay "closed" across the Furman's 12V & Remote ports - that shuts it off
3. Turning on my Outlaw, sends 12V trigger to the relay.
4. That opens the connection across the above ports, turning on your amp.
hope that made senseI thought a relay was built into a device like this to make use of the 12v trigger
The resistor, (4.7K ohms I think) may work for you.
Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Just leave the amp on.Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
-
Just leave the amp on.
Damn, we agree on another thing. This is getting to be too much....LOLPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hi ALL,
I know this question of selecting the right amp for RTI A7 has been asked and answered a thousand times...But I read mixed reaction from various people on what wattage is really good.. I mean some say clean power of 50-80WPC is good enough and some say 200WPC is what one would need...My question is to the people on this forum who already use 200 wpc or more kind of an amp with the RTI a7.. Do you really notice difference in sound at lower volumes(especially bass)? like say on Denon I would keep my volume knob max at 40. Does 200 wpc amp really help for lower volumes..or I am good to go with a 50 wpc NAD or 75 WPC yamaha amp?
-
Audio_holic wrote: »Hi ALL,
I know this question of selecting the right amp for RTI A7 has been asked and answered a thousand times...But I read mixed reaction from various people on what wattage is really good.. I mean some say clean power of 50-80WPC is good enough and some say 200WPC is what one would need...My question is to the people on this forum who already use 200 wpc or more kind of an amp with the RTI a7.. Do you really notice difference in sound at lower volumes(especially bass)? like say on Denon I would keep my volume knob max at 40. Does 200 wpc amp really help for lower volumes..or I am good to go with a 50 wpc NAD or 75 WPC yamaha amp?
Depends....on where that 50-80 watts is coming from. A receiver or separate amplifier. Difference being the amount of current each provides, with a separate amplifier being the champ in that comparison.
That said, the RTI A7's are fairly easy to drive, but any speaker will benefit from some extra current fed them. Whether or not you'll experience better bass at lower volumes depends on more than just an amp. Your associated gear and cabling, your room, source material, how they are set up, if a subwoofer is in the mix or not.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Hi Tonyb,
thanks.. I will be selecting a stereo amp mostly and it will be 2.0 strictly.. no sub at all.
But if my existing Denon AVR is not clipping the signal at my listening volume, i guess it should be good to go with... Or do you think that a stereo amp with better current supplying transformer would still perform better at low volume..
-
Audio_holic wrote: »Do you think that a stereo amp with better current supplying transformer would still perform better at low volume..
I'm gonna take some heat this: Or passive bi-amp w/a Parasound HCA-855.
Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Audio_holic wrote: »Hi Tonyb,
thanks.. I will be selecting a stereo amp mostly and it will be 2.0 strictly.. no sub at all.
But if my existing Denon AVR is not clipping the signal at my listening volume, i guess it should be good to go with... Or do you think that a stereo amp with better current supplying transformer would still perform better at low volume..
Well, lets get the terminology straight first. When you say an "amp", most people think of a separate amplifier, not a receiver. A receiver is like a swiss army knife, does a lot of things but masters little....current being one of those things.
Adding a separate amplifier always helps some, but since your only doing 2 channel with no subwoofer, it should be sufficient. I'd also make sure your receiver is set up for 2 channel. Make sure you go through the set up menu, subwoofer set to none or no, speakers set to large. Speaker levels at 0 to start with then adjust up or down to balance the sound depending on your positioning of the system, where you sit, etc.
Use a good quality 14 ga or 12 ga cable, some cables have different qualities or sound signatures to them. Also, Denon is known for a more relaxed sound anyway, so that too may be fighting your cause. What your using as a source to play music too, cdp, computer ?
Point here is, make sure you do all you can with what you have before making decisions. Make sure your current receiver has the correct settings, cabling up to snuff, maybe better positioning of the speakers if you have room to adjust. Sometimes just a few inches can make a big difference.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Kudos to Tonyb, your advice is spot-on! Where would many of us be w/out his wisdom.
To AH: pay particular attention to Tony's closing paragraph and my ministry, "cables of sufficient size." At the risk of "opening Pandora's box," no smaller than 12 ga.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Audio_holic wrote: »Hi Tonyb,
thanks.. I will be selecting a stereo amp mostly and it will be 2.0 strictly.. no sub at all.
But if my existing Denon AVR is not clipping the signal at my listening volume, i guess it should be good to go with... Or do you think that a stereo amp with better current supplying transformer would still perform better at low volume..
I'm not sure what Denon you're looking at, but I was able to run my A7's up to -20 / -15 without clipping (this volume was fine for most things). However, I ran them Small and crossed over at 80hz to a powered sub -- if you run them Large without a sub that's going to ask more of your receiver. So, depending on your room size, volume requirements and listening habits (music, HT?), the AVR may be good enough for now.
That being said, an external amp cleaned up the sound and allowed me to push the volume much higher. The Denon didn't do a poor job, but I'm very happy with the B&K upgrade. The quality of your DAC/AMP combo will always affect the sound quality/signature of your speakers (or headphones), so the benefit of the B&K was not only more juice for the A7's, but also a more dynamic sound and slightly warmer signature.
I'll try and find time this week to swap my A7's at Large between the receiver and amp to see if I can give any more feedback at lower volumes.
-
AH: Forgot to mention 'A7s are 4 ohms below 125hz. The mid & woofers* are in parallel. Few AVRs can handle a 4 ohm load well.
* 4 ohm drivers wired in series netting 8 ohmsSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
lol....especially since I talked you into getting an amp for yours, right ?
They are fairly easy to drive, but any speaker will sound better with an amp over just a receiver. Just depends on your level of "better" your looking for if your looking at all.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Hi tonyb,adrift02,gp4jesus and all..
Thanks for your inputs!! Really appreciate..adrift02, pls spare some time for me and do the stereo amp vs AVR test at lower volumes and pls share your results! -
If you can find one, a PS Audio 200c will blow your mind. I just put one on my Monitor Audio GS60s and it makes them just pound. Bottom end is ridiculous and too end is so liquid and dreamy you would swear it's a tube amp. Look it up. I paid $500 Canadian so that's roughly $400 ish usd. I have had $5000 pair or Arcam P1 mono blocks on these speakers and this PS Audio is every bit as good maybe even better in the top end.Onkyo TX NR 5008 modified by The Upgrade Company
Oppo BDP 93 modified by The Upgrade Company
Arcam CD37
Monitor Audio Gold GS 60
Revolver Audio Music 5 towers.(surround)
Vandersteen V2W -
Audio_holic wrote: »Hi tonyb,adrift02,gp4jesus and all..
Thanks for your inputs!! Really appreciate..adrift02, pls spare some time for me and do the stereo amp vs AVR test at lower volumes and pls share your results!
Even at -40 (pretty low/moderate volume) it's a night and day difference with the amp. The BK422 is more dynamic, better low end, smoother vocals -- just all around better. Music sounds flat through the Denon in comparison (running these Large for you). I think the A7's love more power, and probably the signiture of the amp is more appealing to me. To be fair this isn't a blind test, but it's not a subtle change...
-
There's nothing fair about a blind test, trust your ears.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Audio_holic wrote: »Hi tonyb,adrift02,gp4jesus and all..
Thanks for your inputs!! Really appreciate..adrift02
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work