SDA SRS 2 Tweeter/Cabinet/Brace interference problem
VSAT88
Posts: 1,257
OK, I know some of you have seen this thread (http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/176862/rdo-194-install-swap-simple#latest) about a simple RD-0194 install. That thread is what started a discussion with a few others and lead to this thread. The question now is not so simple as I see it so I decided to start another thread so in the future there will be a reference point for others. The problem I have is this. I used hurricane nuts and bolts on all of my speaker and Passive holes on these speakers with the exception of the bottom tweeter top of the hole. There is a support brace inside the cabinet directly behind the two top holes of that bottom tweeter. Here are the images.
Hope you can see what I mean by the images. What I would like to do of course is put either brackets or hurricane nuts with bolts in those holes as well. I cannot see where a "standard" bracket will help as the support would interfere with it as well...Ideas welcome.
Hope you can see what I mean by the images. What I would like to do of course is put either brackets or hurricane nuts with bolts in those holes as well. I cannot see where a "standard" bracket will help as the support would interfere with it as well...Ideas welcome.
Comments
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With Larry's brackets you can remove the bar and just use the thread portion of the bracket.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Maybe drill and epoxy an electronics threaded spacer2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Hillman threaded wood insert.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Have not went any farther yet..I will check back in when I do. Thanks for the ideas so far. I know one will work.
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I take it the original screws go directly into the brace. If so, xschop has the proper solution.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Bigger wood screw. End of problem. No need to fight with inserts.
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.Bigger wood screw. End of problem. No need to fight with inserts.
He's using cap screws everywhere else, the original wood screws for that tweeter stand out like a sore thumb.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I think that is the worst interference with a brace I have seen, the tweeter brackets or hurricane nuts won't work without modification of that brace..
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"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
I think that is the worst interference with a brace I have seen, the tweeter brackets or hurricane nuts won't work without modification of that brace..
Yes all, that brace is directly behind the screw holes. Almost looks as if it was perfectly measured and put there on purpose. Hillman looks like the best option here as well. I had thought of using a cap head screw with a wood screw end (like used on many Cerwin Vega speakers) as well. Plenty of material to screw into. At least three inches of brace back there behind that screw hole. I am going to Fastenall to see the options I have. Don't know why but I do not like the screw with cap end option. -
When we were doing speaker cabinet builds McMaster-Carr had the best and most complete selection. Metric is probably easier too.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#screws/=172cbbp2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
E-Zlok.com has a complete line of inserts for use in soft woods and mdf. I was looking at these for a future rebuild project. Anyone have any experience with this product?
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Went to Fastenal this AM. I know they say for hard wood but what do you think ?
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The leading edge is a cutter, so those look like they'll do the job.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Went to Fastenal this AM. I know they say for hard wood but what do you think ?
Perfect and if you want put some 5 minute epoxy on the outer threads of the insert for extra measure.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
FWIW I would try those in a scrap piece of mdf before trying them out on your speakers. I tend to think that those are specifically made for hard wood as they will cut "threads" into the wood. Soft woods and mdf will tend to flake and break apart. Take a look at the E-Zlok page and you will see that the inserts for soft woods, plywood and mdf is made differently.
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Done. They work great. Just some glue as @F1nut recommended. I was careful to drill out the depth as well as I am using very long cap screws. See what you think. Ran them in with the cap screw then backed the screws out to make sure they needed no farther adjustment before the glue dried. Sorry, no five minute epoxy, just Aleen's as I was afraid if I used epoxy and needed to adjust them to fit the holes in the tweeters that by the time I got the tweeters back in they would be completely set.
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Oh yeah, much better. Good job!
It'll make Larry very happy
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Problem solved. Cap heads look much cleaner.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Thank yall ! Yep, tell Larry they sound better too...
