Which Cardas binding post do you recommend?

I was going to order some for the 2.3 TL and found a few different versions.

Seems to be the plating, I assume un-plated copper could oxidize, just curious to your thoughts.

CCBP-S http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/cardas-ccbp-binding-post-p-1385

CCGG-S http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/cardas-ccgg-binding-post-p-1387

CCGR-S http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/cardas-ccgr-binding-post-p-1389

CCRR-S http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/cardas-ccrr-binding-post-p-1668
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited February 2017
    I've used the CCGR-S in the past, before they offered the CCGG-S, which is what I'd use today if I went with Cardas.

    You can order the single post insulator from them as well.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,296
    I like the CCGG-S
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    Those are nice prices, how could you go wrong?
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Guys, is there a preferred solder for gold and\or rhodium plating?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    Cardas quad is all you'll ever need
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Thanks Pitt, I just ordered a spool.
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  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    Thanks, I will give the CCGG a go.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    I have a question about these binding posts.

    If I remove them from the dual plastic or delrin mounting plate, will the optional single red and black delrin insulators keep the post away from the metal mounting plate on my 2.3's?

    The Cardas insulators have a flat on 2 sides of the mounting hole to prevent turning, so I"m curious as to the proper way to mount these CCGG posts. Will I need to file two flat sides in the mounting plate?

    I could drill the plate to the larger diameter for the insulators but then I won't have them locked into the plate. Just wondering how others have mounted them.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    If you're not using the black dual plate you will have to use the optional single red and black ones.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    GMC, I was wondering how the Cardas dual plates mount to a thin terminal plate as well.
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  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    F1nut wrote: »
    If you're not using the black dual plate you will have to use the optional single red and black ones.

    Ok.sounds good.
    xschop wrote: »
    GMC, I was wondering how the Cardas dual plates mount to a thin terminal plate as well.

    You could get the long posts but either way, you would need to keep them together or cut them apart which isn't as clean of an install.

    The problem I see is you just can't drill a hole for the single insulators. While they look like they will work, I don't see how you can keep them from rotating with a circular hole, it would need to have two flats ground into the hole.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    The tech drawing doesn't show the step dimension, that's why I passed on them.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited March 2017
    Doug, as you suspect you'll have to make holes with flat sides. I've done it many times on stock binding post plates using a Dremel and small files. Make a template and use it to mark the plate. Go slow.

    Bring them over here if you want, I've got the tools.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    xschop wrote: »
    GMC, I was wondering how the Cardas dual plates mount to a thin terminal plate as well.

    They surface mount, no problem.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Understand, but the step dimension has to be shorter than the plate thickness for the compression nut to do it's job.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    Only the block has the step.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    And it's dimension is not shown, so if cut in half it may spin in thin plate.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    I've seen Trey mount them cut in half on his plates. I recall doing it once without issue, but didn't like the look, so I made shouldered holes in the binding post plate.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    0.75" on center is a no go for alot of folks I imagine.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,142
    xschop wrote: »
    The tech drawing doesn't show the step dimension, that's why I passed on them.

    Take F1nut up on his offer to do them; he knows what he's doing and does great worka3ipb1oje66g.jpg
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    F1nut wrote: »
    Bring them over here if you want, I've got the tools.

    I appreciate that Jessie, thank you.

    I'll make a template on some plastic before I cut on Trey's metal plates, then just transfer the cutout.

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited March 2017
    I have no doubt he does great work. Just wondered how those posts properly went thru sheet metal. The factory plastic cups are not a worry. Also not knocking Cardas, they make a fine product.
    On mine, I used a common 0.5" OD x 0.375" ID tubing and cut 1/2" long.
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  • helipilotdoug
    helipilotdoug Posts: 1,229
    I took some photos of the double mounting block with round step and single mounting block with flat sides showing the size. Hope this helps.
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    3fg0pghdu7za.jpg
    iqd4fbcaa8fx.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Here's the unknown dimension I was originally looking for.... The generic ones are 0.190" so a 0.200 or greater thick plate is in order...

    p6j13rn32o02.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    You can add a washer to take up the difference or cut off some of the plastic.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    a little sand paper and walla plastic correct depth.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    Ed Zachary!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Anybody have a spare set of long style they don't need?
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  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    Finally getting around to finishing these up. Was a list of mods I wanted to get done when the Avel isolation transformer arrived, figure knock them out at once.

    I didn't want to reinstall the binding post plate with the stock wires. I had 15' of AQ Type 4 I was using for a center channel that I don't need anymore...so I used that to make some chassis wire.

    I have future plans for an internal rewire, but for now, just going from the plate to the x-over I wanted some solid core copper wire.

    I used two of the four conductors for each post, thus giving me a 3rd wire needed for the dimensional driver circuit, I just cut two of the leads flush with the thick jacked..leaving all the dielectric inside all 3 leads.

    Thanks to everyone for their input, especially Jesse, Trey, Larry, VC, for the hardware and DQ for all his R&D...im sure I'm leaving a few out.

    More pics later but have one side done and one more to wire up.

    52zfqf9igsjw.jpg

    4ciianc1mcqz.jpg

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    Nice work, Doug.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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