Need An Aftermarket Stereo

I recently got a set of subwoofers and an amplifier but still they are not giving me the kind of sound I need. So I'm asking, do I need an aftermarket stereo to hook these gadgets up?

Comments

  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 1,836
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 2,026
    Car audio?
  • Seems like car audio
    2 Channel
    BlueSound Node 2 Streaming Tidal I Marantz SA8005 I Music Hall MMF7.3 I Lounge Audio LCR Mk III I Backert Labs Rhumba 1.1 I B&K Ref 200.2 I Focal Aria 926 I Wireworld Eclipse 7 IC's I Acoustic Zen Satori SC I Pangea AC14SE MkII/PS Audio AC-3 Power Cables

    Living Room HT
    Sony XBR65X930E I Marantz NR-1608 I Q Acoustics 2020i I Q Acoustics 3090c I FXI-A4's I DIY 15" Dayton SW

  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 30,196
    SamK wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.

    Need a bit more info.....what kind of subwoofers are they, brand, model ? What kind of amp ? Are the subs in the trunk, rear deck ? What are you using as the source for music, stock stereo, if so, what kind ? How is it wired right now ?
    HT SYSTEM-2 channel
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Dynaudio Audience 72
    Polk FX500 surrounds
    Cary xciter dac
    Cullen modded Sonos
    Joule la-100 pre
    B&k Ref 4420 amp

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Analysis plus crystal oval ic's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • RicardoRicardo Posts: 10,504
    SamK wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.

    Well, if that is "everything", you need more than just a stereo.
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 4,304
    Are you running a crossover to all the speakers??
    Lumin D1,Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7, KEF LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Jolida D9,
    USB helpers: w4s Recovery
    Living Room Elite SC27, LSI25
    Have but haven't used in a while: LH Labs VI Dac, Cayin SCD50T

  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    They are MTX Audio subwoofers. 1,200 watt. @erniejade how do I choose a crossover?
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 2,026
    You are not giving enough info to help you. And this should be in the car stereo area of the forum where more people who live in that world will see it.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,780
    DaveHo wrote: »
    You are not giving enough info to help you. And this should be in the car stereo area of the forum where more people who live in that world will see it.

    And you have been asked several times. If you want help you have to post more than one liners dude...
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 4,304
    You would need a crossover to put the mids and highs to the door speakers amp and the lows to the sub amp. Usually people cross over at 80-100 hz depending on the rest of your rig and as others have pointed out, you need a lot more information in this thread to help you.
    Lumin D1,Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7, KEF LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Jolida D9,
    USB helpers: w4s Recovery
    Living Room Elite SC27, LSI25
    Have but haven't used in a while: LH Labs VI Dac, Cayin SCD50T

  • recoveryonerecoveryone Posts: 630
    edited January 2017
    from what I have kleen from your posting you are using a factory installed head unit? in some of todays vehicle some are quite good, but may still lack the ability to act as your crossover point for the output of the sound. So aftermarket may be the best starting point. All brands have head units that can help with your problem, most in the mid to highend range. My past experience there are two common ways to setup your system.

    1. Most modern HU (head units) you have your standard wiring harness and RCA outputs jacks. You can run the front/door speakers off the harness , then us the RCA jacks for your sub connection. By doing this you are still only using the built in amp power of the HU, so don't expect much humph as you are sharing power with all speakers.
    2. Run the front speakers off the HU, then add a seprate mono amp for the subs. this gives you more power for the sub's and you will be able to control/detail the bass to your liking.
    3. In one my old cars I ran 3 amps one 4 channel for the all the doors, used the bypass output of that amp to 2 mono amps for the 10" subs I had in a box in the trunk.

    Most of all learn to do your math, todays auto audio market use off the chart claims about power output/handling. A simple way to look at speakers and amps is this take the max output and divide that amount by 2 until you reach 8ohms. So a 1000 watt sub at 2ohms is only 500 watt 4ohm and 250 at 8ohms this will keep things more in real world results.
    Family Room HT 7.2/i]:
    Vizio P55-E1UHD Pioneer Elite SC-LX502 Pioneer Elite BDP 85FD Pioneer Elite N-50 Panamax M5300-EX
    Living room 2ch:
    Integra ADM 2.1 Teac EQ MKII Squeezebox Touch Fluance SX Speakers Panamax M5100-EX
    Upstairs media room:
    Vizio D1 32" Pioneer Elite VSX 32 Sony PS4 Squeezebox Touch Polkaudio Rti 6's fronts Polk CSR Center Polkaudio PSW 10 sub Panamax M5300-EX
    Master bedroom:
    Vizio VF550M Pioneer Elite VSX 33 Pioneer Elite BDP 80FD Squeezebox Touch Polk audio Monitor 40 II fronts, Rears Optimus LX5s Jensen CCS center Polkaudio PSW 10 sub Panamax 5100
  • I am just confused as I am sure everyone else is. From your original post, it seems yopu have them hooked up in some fashion? How are they hooked up and I can help from there and what are they not doing that you want them to? In my former life I was a car audio nut, so I can help if you just provide a little more detail
    2 Channel
    BlueSound Node 2 Streaming Tidal I Marantz SA8005 I Music Hall MMF7.3 I Lounge Audio LCR Mk III I Backert Labs Rhumba 1.1 I B&K Ref 200.2 I Focal Aria 926 I Wireworld Eclipse 7 IC's I Acoustic Zen Satori SC I Pangea AC14SE MkII/PS Audio AC-3 Power Cables

    Living Room HT
    Sony XBR65X930E I Marantz NR-1608 I Q Acoustics 2020i I Q Acoustics 3090c I FXI-A4's I DIY 15" Dayton SW

  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,601
    Hmm car audio, have not been down that hole for about 16 years

    If you're going to do it do it right

    1 good head unit
    2 good amps don't know whats good there any more, you will need 2. 1 4 chanel for the speakers and 1 2 chanel for the subs
    3 good wiring
    4 good speakers
    5 good subs Polk JL audio Cerwin Vega (if they are still around) Kicker

    you can spend thousands on this and all it takes is some dirt bag a minute to steel it all.

    I had a 1999 Nissan extended cab truck with punch 800 on 2 JL 10W3 Polk separates in the doors and 6X9 in boxes above the sub box with a Sony ES amp ES head with 6 disc changer.

    I sold the truck a month later the guy who bought it from me told me the stereo got ripped off in his driveway. $2.500 stereo gone
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,214
    edited January 2017
    SamK, your questions are much to vague to help you. Did you like the OEM sound before the subwoofers? If not, then the subs will only add bass to crappy sound. In the end, you may be after an aftermarket deck, speakers, and amplifier. Go to a car audio shop and asks a lot of questions and listen. Then come back with detailed questions and a second opinion.
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 6,698
    Gentlemen,
    Let's try and be as helpful as we can and refrain from extraneous comments that only confuse.
    Thanks, Ken
    "And the house you live in will never fall down
    If you pity the stranger who stands at your gate" G.Lightfoot
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 9,971
    10-4

    But we are the confused
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 6,698
    Hello "SamK",
    In order to answer your question: "how do I choose a crossover?" we would need to know what is the low frequency capability of your front and rear deck speakers? Also, what is the brand and model number of the amplifier you are using?
    Regards, Ken
    "And the house you live in will never fall down
    If you pity the stranger who stands at your gate" G.Lightfoot
  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    I think wiring is fine. The problem is that when I put the bass to maximum on the amp, the speakers start producing some buzzing sound.
  • treitz3treitz3 Posts: 12,537
    Is this like a buzz or "whine" sound that goes up and down with the reving of the engine or more like a buzz sound that is only apparent when a low passage or drum kick hits?

    Tom
    In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.

    The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction.
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,214
    edited January 2017
    SamK wrote: »
    I think wiring is fine. The problem is that when I put the bass to maximum on the amp, the speakers start producing some buzzing sound.

    SamK, again your response is too vague.

    1) What do you mean by "I put the bass to maximum on the amp?" Are you referring to the gain adjustment knob on the amp? If so, that is a component level match adjustment. Too much gain will cause distortion. Follow the level match procedures in the amplifier instructions or there are tutorials on the web and tons of YouTube videos on amplifier gain setting.

    2) What speakers distort? The subs or the door/ dash speakers or both the subs and the door speakers?

    3) What sub amp are you using?

    4) So, the rest of the stereo is OEM?
    Post edited by WLDock on
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    No worries I got a technician to fix it. The sound is now top-notch. Thank you all!
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!