Yamaha rx-v681 w/ rti a7s, csi a6..

I have no doubt this song has been heard before. I am new to the forum and need some suggestions.

I recently started building out a new system and was set on yamaha since I have owned now 3 since the late 80s. I went with the rx-v681 with intentions of LCR only thinking good towers and center should be sufficient with primary use case music. TV and movies will be viwed from the same system and the center would provide good clear dialogue. I opted for the a7s and a6 center. Most music is listened in 2 channel with pure direct enabled. Note that I have the a7s biamped but not sure how much return I am getting on that copper. While the sound is good depending on the source and even sometimes great I think I need more power. The rx-v681 is 95wpc and I realize ratings and quality of power vary immensely. Not planning ahead and thinking the unit would have enough power I did not future proof and get an avr with preouts so I see a couple of options. Sale the yamaha which I purchased late September and start over. Or opt for smaller fronts which I just ordered a3s, store the a7s and save for avr with preouts and an external amp running the a3s. Once I have acquired the proper power I can use the a3s as surrounds and a7s as fronts. Seems like 2 steps foward and one backwards. Thoughts and suggestions please?

Thanks
RB

Living Room
Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

Office
Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

Douglas Connection ICs and Cables

Best Answers

  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    Answer ✓
    Run a single cable from the AVR to the speakers. Either replace the jumper plate or use wire to jumper the binding posts.

    Your AVR will have an easier time driving the A3's, but if you decide to run the A7's, be careful with volume knob. Look at accessories4less for a better AVR.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited December 2016 Answer ✓
    Welcome to Club Polk. I think the A7/A6 combo works well across the front though I'm a little biased*; same for 'A3 as surrounds. And... ...how much space you trying to fill? Using a pair of 'A3s as LR till you can correctly power the 7s (and/or A6 too!) is hardly a wa$te, just delayed gratification! Read on
    * check my sig
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Run a single* cable* from the AVR to the speakers. Either replace the jumper plate or use wire to jumper the binding posts.
    Regardless whether you've changed* it or not, try this: Note how warm your AVR runs** after ~30 minutes** at a typical, or slightly higher, V level. Then change and repeat**. If little or no diff, all is well. If warmer w/the single, your AVR is, at best, struggling to drive those "nominally 8 ohm" rated (4 ohm below 125hz***) speakers - "biamping" is easier on it though not really better.
    *** the hardest part the audio spectrum even w/a sub

    Also your Center isn't the easiest load for most AVRs either.
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Your AVR will have an easier time driving the A3's, but if you decide to run the A7's, be careful with volume knob. Look at accessories4less for a better AVR.
    +1 as most AVRs struggle w/the 'A7s & 'A9s. However you'd fare far better w/a separate 2 or 3 channel amp for your LR/LCR. You'll need an AVR w/pre outputs.

    Happy "playing" & New Year! Tony
    Post edited by gp4jesus on
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    Answer ✓
    Yamaha fan here, too. I started with a RX-V6xx, then a RX-V8xx, then RX-A1000. I think I'm stopping at my current RX-A2040. Each step up was appreciable, but the jump from V to A (AVENTAGE) series was most significant and seems to me to match the RTi speakers well. An Adcom 5-channel amp powers my front 3 and surrounds. The back and presence channels are powered by the AVR.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    Answer ✓
    There ya go rBurgess! No hard fast rule on the journey to HT success. Consider long & hard what defines finished for you then make every change/upgrade count.

    A side note: at the risk of opening this forum's "Pandora's box," IME if you're not running at least 12 gauge, and I STRONGLY recommend 10, to all channels, you're "leaving performance on the table!"

    I don't know your AVR. Can it accept bananas? If so check out my "Tri-amped RTi A7" thread for some cheap, but easy to use 'nanners that will easily accept 6 ga, 4 w/a little patience.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,990
    Answer ✓
    1- No, referenced to the thin metal plate that connects the top posts to the bottom posts on the back of the speaker. If your using a single run of speaker cable, make sure that metal strip is in place. You remove it when bi-wiring or bi-amping.

    2- bi-amping with a receiver....no, don't waste your time.

    5-A new Aventage AVR should run those speakers all on it's own, though the addition of an amplifier would be better.

    Keep gear forever ? Wish I had a nickel for every person who said that.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited December 2016 Answer ✓
    1: either re-use the Polk plate jumpers or, as many have recommended, short piece of speaker wire.

    3:12* gauge is adequate. When you're close to your definition of "finished," (big stuff) i. e. Processing, power, & Speakers (5.1/2, 7.1/2 etc) then consider delving into the subjective "polish" area (Hornet's Nest)of system upgrades - bigger**, better** cabling; interconnects including HDMI.
    * 10 ga can be had, shipped, ~$.85/ft
    ** Blue Jeans 10 ga w/better Connects, ~$1.25 shipped

    5:can't say on AVR power SQ. If your end goal is THEATRE* in your home you'll likely need separate power for your LCR and a robust sub.
    * mine!

    Keep gear forever? Some...
    Speakers? Possible. I still have my first pair from 1980, Kef 304
    Amplifiers? Why not?! Still have a working Belles 1 Series, purchased in1985. I'll have some FS very soon.
    HT Processor? (AVR or pre-pro) NO WAY!! I'm on my 5th* since 1995. I expect to upgrade that* in 2-3 years.
    * purchased new May 2015
    Post edited by gp4jesus on
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s

Answers

  • Merry Christmas All. Thanks for the rapid responses and suggestions. Couuple questions which I can research but ...

    1)replacing the jumper plate? Are you referring to the entire back unit, the plastic piece with four post to an after market one and what results would that afford me?

    2)other than easing the load of the avr is there a real gain in performance bi amping ?

    3)not really a question but a comment I am running 12 guage wire and my avr does accept banana clips.

    4)going to set up the a3s and see how they work out.

    5)will likely buy new yamaha Aventage **** and add separate amp

    I think/hope once I get the sound I want I will be content for some time as I tend to keep my gear forever.

    Thanks,
    RB
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • Esteemed audio heads. Your suggestions, insight and knowledge has been very helpful.
    I was able to return the rx-v681 to be big box store for full credit which I applied towards the Aventage 1060. Better build quality, processing, power and preouts. Still setting up and tweaking but I think this toy will work for the time being. I am sure sometime in the next couple of months I will be scrubbing sites for used a amp to complete the build out . Seems B&K, Parasound and Adcom are popular amongst Polk Folks.

    Thanks Again,

    RB
    Living Room
    Parasound HINT 6, Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Oppo 103D, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, KLH Model 5s, Polk CSi A6, Samsung 65" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    Congrats! That's a fine AVR. Enjoy! :)