Bathroom remodel....how do I....

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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,906
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    kevhed72 wrote: »
    I gave up on that specific vanity because I didn't want to mess with the plumbing....which leads me to this question.....can a compression fitting valve on copper pipe be untightened and re tightened because of a minuscule bit of moisture on the copper pipe? I may be paranoid.....but don't want a leak issue down the road because of a connection issue.....maybe I need to sand down the end of pipe a bit more?

    Yes it can, but.....you DO NOT want to use compression fittings on indoor plumbing. I don't see why you even need to change the plumbing. Shorten the drawer and carve a bit of that back board on the vanity and be done.

    Even if you do a half arse job shortening the drawer, and carving out the back, nobody will ever see it. You can also call the manufacturer of the vanity and see if they make a shorter drawer.

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  • Paradoxex
    Paradoxex Posts: 189
    edited November 2016
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    Agreed...as noted, that's what I did.

    Shortening the drawer is a lot less work and carries less work than messing with supply line plumbing. A saw and some sturdy wood glue could work in a pinch.

    Regarding compression fittings....do you mean the type that permit the addition of different types of valves? If so, you should be able to take it back off and put some teflon tape or plumber's grease in the threads if you want to stop any water penetration that way - though it may not be worth the hassle. Tony, I don't think you can avoid those in household plumbing. This is also true if you mean those large nuts you put on threaded pipes, though some plumbers scoff at those - they aren't as good as sweated pipes (or bonded, if you're doing (C)PVC).

    If it's a sharkbite fitting, well, that's probably what Tony is cautioning you against. Many plumbers view those as temporary fixes at best. Removing one is hard and you can easily damage the gasket that seals the connection.
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,963
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    Making progress.....any reason I cannot use the Liquid Nails to hold up the tile backsplash you see around the sink...
    3r2aaooze3jv.jpg
  • Paradoxex
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    What material is the backsplash? If it's granite, use something specifically rated for adhering stone materials. Liquid nails is petroleum base, and if the stone is porous, you'll have some ugly stains that will never come out.

    If it is something nonporous, then it's less serious, but I'd still defer to the instructions to see what materials they say to use it on and/or avoid.
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,963
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    It is standard ceramic.....I'm just being lazy and cheap and don't want to drive back to HD to buy more crap. I do plan also on a small bead of caulk on the edges, which should provide a bit more grip
  • Paradoxex
    Paradoxex Posts: 189
    edited November 2016
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    The caulk will also make sure no moisture bleeds down the wall.

    Just make sure the ceramic won't stain due to the liquid nails. It's irreversible. I don't have experience using it on ceramic.